Gasket advice for a Vintage Fridge Kegerator

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twitchsey

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ive got a 1954 GE fridge that im doing a rebuild on to convert it into a kegerator. I found a place to get an extruded gasket for it that (fairly closely) matches the original. Problem is, itll cost like 170 dollars... which is about... oh 170 dollars more than I paid for the working fridge.

So. Im looking for advice for alternatives. my current line if thinking is to use either 1/8" or 1/4" neoprene to bridge the space between the door body and inner panel. and then use weather stripping to form the compression seal. all in all will cost me about 35 dollars.

has anyone done something similar to this, and if so, did it work for you?

the neoprene is about 20 bucks if thats the option I go with. I then have the choice between neoprene rubber (the more solid material, at 1/8") or a neoprene sponge at 1/4".

Any thoughts would be helpful at this stage.
 
I've not worked on any old fridges like that personally, but an important part of the fridge gasket is that it is magnetic, so you may want to think about that part. Would buying a cheapo fridge gasket for any ol fridge and modifying it work out better than the neoprene?
 
I've not worked on any old fridges like that personally, but an important part of the fridge gasket is that it is magnetic, so you may want to think about that part. Would buying a cheapo fridge gasket for any ol fridge and modifying it work out better than the neoprene?


The gasket that came off isnt magnetic. the fridge closes with a (fairly heavy duty) latch at the handle, and the gasket itself is just a compression gasket.

Modifying an existing gasket might be tough because it really is two components, 1) being a seal between the door body and the inside panel (about a 1.5 inch space that needs to be covered), and 2) being the compression part (about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick gap).
 
Ah ok, well I'm out of my realm then as I've really only worked on newer fridges. Your plan seems good to me, though I'd want to use something harder to bridge that 1.5" gap and then just have the gasket for the last bit. Could you post any pictures?
 
This gives an idea of what the door/panel looks like. you can see the gap with the insulation in it. Covering that is just to prevent water/conensation from getting into the door cavity.

Note: the panel isnt fully attached so its a bit crooked. 4 bolts hold the thing at its corners so the gap on all edges is relatively equal.

p0nloJH.jpg


Below is a profile of the gasket. the top of the gasket (with the holes in it) extends into the door to seal that space/gap. the bottom of the picture/gasket is the wider portion that acts as the compression bit.

OdqyGJu.jpg
 
Did you check McMaster? Go to Sealing, Click on Weatherstripping, then Click Bulb Seals, Then Rubber Bulb Seals. I'm assuming you did and that's where you're getting the Neoprene quote from?

I have a 1949 GE fridge that I ordered a replacement gasket for. My door is quite a bit different than yours, looks like they got a bit more complicated in a matter of 5 years. I ordered Item #1142A62 (Style 7) thinking it would be a close enough match, but actually turned out to be identical to what was on the fridge when I bought it (off CL). I don't know if someone else had replaced the original before I got it or if that was the original.

My door panel doesn't have the gaps like yours does, it overlaps with the edge of the door, so my gasket is just press fit plus a couple screws on each side. It's not a perfect seal, but it works alright. Is your door panel metal? If it is that sounds nice (but heavy). Mine is laminated particle board.

I'd try and find something to cover those gaps, then get a press fit gasket that will fit into that.

Another option is you could do the same as Kerber's epic vintage kegerator which just used some foam weatherstripping, I believe. It's cheap, you probably won't be opening the door up daily so it won't see as much wear and tear as a normal fridge gasket. If it wears out, replace it again.
 
Yeah, I looked at some press fits. what im thinking is that I can cut the neoprene sheets into 4 strips. Top with radii to form to the door shape, and left/right/bottom as straight rectangles to bridge the gap. a little bit of adhesive on both the door frame and the panel will keep that all sorts of sealed from anything that would want to get in it.

the panel itself is metal. The fridge is build like a tank. super heavy.

Then I can either look at a compression gasket that i can adhere to the neoprene, or just go the weather stripping route. I figure worst case is some weather stripping on both the door, and the fridge body. should be a more than acceptable seal.

And, like most have said, if it goes, weather stripping is cheap to replace.
 
You say a 1.5 gap to bridge?
I realize it did not come with a magnetic seal, but why not convert it to one?
Nothing says ya' can't put a magenetic seal on both sides, door and body, and the "stackup" could be enough to bridge your gap.

Tons of hits came up here, although I did not peruse for "Magnetic seal stock" or the like.

https://www.google.com/#q=Magnetic+door+seals

Straight runs of it would work, with mitered corners, and you would probably be able to disable that killer latch...........Old fridges used to kill a bunch of kids years ago, when the would hide inside of them, and no one ever found them! They could not actuate the latch from within!



Edit: these folks offer up some " seal stock".

http://www.tricomp.com/a.html

Also, ......We got some neat silicone, fabric covered "bulb" seals on the aircraft I work on........They are used to seal up the gaps between the flight controls, etc...........Sorry, no pics of them, but the big bulb seal you would lust for is out there, on Boeing aircraft.....
 
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