Frusterating Keg Issue

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Col224

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I posted on another thread before but I'm re-posting because I think there is another underlying issue.
Original:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=6946812#post6946812

Background: I kegged an IPA and when I put the keg to pressure, there was CO2 leaking out of the little holes around the PRV.

I bought a new lid, and a little keg lube, and applied both to the keg. However, I'm having the exact same issue. The keg is leaking through the same little holes around the PRV as the last lid. There are two different styles (a firestone lid and an amazon.com replacement http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VUOEN4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

I've got it at 30 psi but when I bring it down to lower pressures, the same thing occurs, though with a slower hiss.

I can't imagine I have two faulty lids leaking in the exact same way. Could there be another underlying issue causing this? I definitely verified that the only leak is through those PRV holes.

I'm really at a loss here...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm confused about why you need a second thread for the same problem. :confused:

Anyway, sounds like it might be a bad regulator or gauge that's letting a much higher pressure through than what's being indicated.
 
It was more a "I thought I had a bad lid - bought a new one, thread closed" type thing than needing a second thread...I just thought that it might be a larger issue.

How could I troubleshoot a bad regulator?
 
I'm confused about why you need a second thread for the same problem. :confused:

Anyway, sounds like it might be a bad regulator or gauge that's letting a much higher pressure through than what's being indicated.

If this was the case, wouldn't the keg maintain SOME pressure after time? after turning off the CO2 tank, the keg completely de-pressurizes over time...
 
Ran into the same issue and this fixed it. Try unscewing the prv valve and put a thin layer all over the rubber valve and a little inside on the threading. Screw it in hard as you can without damaging the threads. Now put back together, Fill the little hole from underneath the prv with a glob of leg lube. From here I take the big o-ring off the lid and cover the whole thing with lube. Put it all back together and close the lid then wiggle the lid side to side to make sure it's seated correctly.
 
Ran into the same issue and this fixed it. Try unscewing the prv valve and put a thin layer all over the rubber valve and a little inside on the threading. Screw it in hard as you can without damaging the threads. Now put back together, Fill the little hole from underneath the prv with a glob of leg lube. From here I take the big o-ring off the lid and cover the whole thing with lube. Put it all back together and close the lid then wiggle the lid side to side to make sure it's seated correctly.

Thank you sir. The original issue I had, I solved exactly as you described above, I was a bit generous with the keg lube and got everything screwed on so tight, I may never be able to get it undone.

Turns out that I'm about as unlucky as they come. After many many hours of researching and trying different things, I finally noticed a little "void" in the weld below the new lid which was driving the leak not through the little holes which I originally thought but at the base of the PRV on the new lid. So...If I had just done the keg-lube route with the original lid, I would have been solved a lot faster than beating my head against the wall with the new lid.

Thanks ALL who helped!
 
From here I take the big o-ring off the lid and cover the whole thing with lube. Put it all back together and close the lid then wiggle the lid side to side to make sure it's seated correctly.

something I've found that helps me get the lids sealed consistently, especially with my more difficult kegs, is to seat the lid under pressure.

What I mean by this, is when I assemble the lid, I do not latch the bale down immediately. I put the lid in, and lightly pull it up against the seat using the bale. While holding the lid up, I pressurize the keg with co2 at 30psi. as the pressure builds (quite quickly) the lid usually finds it's own best seat position (keglube really helps in this, as it allows the lid/o-ring to slide/move/etc as it needs). if it's still leaking a little, I vent the lid, and move the lid around some. very rarely takes more than 1 try to get a good seal.. then I check to make sure it's sealed -- using starsan sprayed over the whole thing shows no bubbles.
 
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