Crave
Member
I also completed a conversion for one tap for this fridge. I put my faucet through the door. The only issue I had was punching through the door with my crappy drill.
I just bought one tonight and will be converting it when my tower gets here this weekend. Some one said earlier in the post that a 1/6 barrel will fit in it with the sanky tap, i cant verify it put it is posted earlier... has any one put the tower towards the middle more instead of at the front or the way back? im going to attempt that and hopefully it will work. will post some pics of the finished product this weekend hopefully!!
That's a great looking setup! You don't happen to have the dimensions for the cabinet build do you?
Yes! 2 kegs fit.
There are no extra wires. The manufactures sent the correct amount.
Some people shift it back and some remove it completely.
I did the later. Added an external T-stat.
My question is:
since wiring is my weakpoint in DIY projects, Im learining that people do either of these two, correct me where I'm incorrect:
A) plug the controller between the unit and the wall, and the entire unit comes on/off when the controller switches on/off.
or
B) Wire the controller into the unit's wiring system, replacing the factory thermostat ( as you seem to have done). Its my understanding that this can keep the unit "on" and just cycles the compressor when the controller switches on.
Bumbler, from your picture that shows the fridge with removed thermostat, did you splice/wirenut anything together there, or just disconnect the wires from the factory controller and tape them to the side?
option (A) mean more "wear and tear" on the unit because it gets switched off/on everytime (or use more energy for a 'start up' each time)?
and for option B (as you say you did), did you just remove the factory, and put your Ranco between the wall and the fridge, or wire it in somehow?
think i'll go A, because i'd rather keep it intact for now, but im wondering if simply disconnecting the thermostat will affect the Love contol plugged in between the unit and the wall socket.
Thanks to anyone who wants to give their opinion, you guys rock.
Am I correct that this fridge will not fit two pin-lock corny's? Anyone fit two pin-locks in here yet?
Am I correct that this fridge will not fit two pin-lock corny's? Anyone fit two pin-locks in here yet?
first I applaud you for being a great wife and buying this for your hubby as a xmas gift!Hi all!
This forum has been amazingly informative--thanks so much for posting all of the info and pictures! I read this entire thread beginning to end, and was so excited when I got to page 7 or so and learned that you could convert this model with a tower on the top. I was thinking I would have to pay a lot in shipping to get one of the older models I'd read about elsewhere (Sanyo, etc.) in order to set up a tower-type. Now I can just pick this one up from Lowe's. Awesome!
Anyway, I'm planning to get this mini-fridge and the 2-faucet tower homebrew conversion kit from kegconnection.com for my husband for Christmas. I figured we'd settle for putting the tower through the front part to avoid removing the plastic top, since we're not as DIY-inclined as a lot of the people here who have created some real kegerators of beauty.
My question is about the tools & other supplies we'll need. I can rent a 1-3" hole saw for $6/day--would this be the appropriate tool to get through the top of the fridge? Plus, some people have talked about using PVC pipe segments through the lid, but I think someone else used duct tape, which is more at my skill level. Does it matter? I don't care what it ends up looking like on the inside.
Also, I'm assuming that you can only put on the drawer handles as rails if you take the top off and drill through it. If there's another way, though, please share! It looks really cool.
Sorry for the long first post, and thanks!
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