Frankenstein HLT sight glass issue

[cod3ck]

I'm building an electric HLT out of a keggle I snagged from a garage sale. There was only 1 hole punched low for an outlet, so I've figured out a system to get a thermometer, a sight glass, and the outlet from one hole...

There's only 1 issue. With the sight glass where it's at, I'm unable to get the vacuum I need for my chugger pump to work since air keeps getting in from the top of the sight glass.

Anyone have a suggestion to make this work? So far sticking my finger on the top of the glass works, but as you can imagine, it's a pain...

See screenshot for more details*

Thanks for the help!View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1453260705.894440.jpg

 

[SupervisingChildren]

Is it just getting it primed that is the problem, or does the sight glass need to stay plugged the entire time when running the chugger? How about using some high temp tubing attached to the sight glass that could go into water in the hlt to help create the vacuum, or something else that you can plug coming off the sight glass?

Fwiw I have no experience, just giving ideas...

 

[day_trippr]

I expect he needs to use his finger any time the pump is running.

And aside from finding a cap or plug to serve as a virtual finger - which I imagine renders the sight glass function inert - I don't think there's a way to overcome the physics that makes it easier to suck air through that sight tube than to draw wort from the keggle...

Cheers!

 

[jddevinn]

This configuration will not work. You need to cap the top of the site glass, and even then it will not work as a site glass when the pump is active.

Flow will follow the path of least resistance. Air has less resistance through the tube than the wort has through the kettle outlet so you will pull air through the outlet.

Even if caped the pressure will equalize during pumping, the air in the top of the site glass will expand (form a slight vacuum) and the reading will be wrong.

I read a thread a while ago where an OEM had the same issue with there setup.

 

[cod3ck]

Gah! I thought I was going to prove everyone wrong...

I tried attaching a small one-way gas valve to the top, so air could be pushed out while filling the keg, but the 'cap' would be in place when draining...

Aside from the sight glass not being functional while draining, it worked really well the first time. Then as you guys have mentioned, the vacuum stayed in place, but 'permanently' this time. So yup, 1 hole with a sight glass is a no-go...

Think I might rip it out in the near future and maybe etch the gallon marks on the inside of the tank. Before that though I'd like to get the HERMS coil in place... Seems conflicting, but I have to believe it will work?

 

[BBBF]

You could put a valve at the bottom of sight glass and close it before you drain.

 

[cod3ck]

BBBF - that's actually a really good idea.

I have to be honest though, I feel like I'm over complicating this... I'm halfway tempted to rip the sight glass out and just use a metal yard stick until I get the HERMS upgrade (and inside gallon etching) in place.

Regardless, thanks for the suggestion. That would definitely work if I wanted to go that route.

 

[Bobby_M]

Leave that port as sight and thermo and make a new hole for the drain. There is no magic trick and you will hate life with the current setup.

 

[BBBF]

BBBF - that's actually a really good idea.

I have to be honest though, I feel like I'm over complicating this... I'm halfway tempted to rip the sight glass out and just use a metal yard stick until I get the HERMS upgrade (and inside gallon etching) in place.

Regardless, thanks for the suggestion. That would definitely work if I wanted to go that route.

I like having a sight glass. Adding another hole would be the best solution.

 

[Wolfbayne]

What is you used a grant before the pump? Would allow the natural gravity flow of the wort keeping pressure off the site glass. Just an idea.

 

[day_trippr]

A grant would work, but in a recirc system it would make heat conservation a little more difficult...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

Even with a grant, you won't be able to use a diptube to siphon out below the drain port. It's just a bad idea to combine a drain with a sightglass and you should do whatever it takes to keep them separate. Seriously.. Drilling a hole is vastly more simple than any other solution or workaround.

 

[cod3ck]

Alright. Finally getting around to looking into drilling a hole...

I'm looking to punch a couple holes opposite of where the element sticks out into the kettle. One will be for the valve, the other for the temp gauge and sight glass.

My issue is, with the dip tube I have, I'm limited to having to get the hole as close to the bottom as possible so the end of the tube contacts the bottom of the kettle and limits the dead space of water left in the kettle.

With the pre existing welded connection I tapped into, this wasn't a concern. Going weldless however, I'm concerned the vertical curvature on the keggle may cause issues for getting a proper seal... Anyone tried this?

Here's some photos for reference:
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459389176.417449.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459389193.327758.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1459389203.578298.jpg

 

[dmcman73]

You don't need to go that low. If your sight glass starts showing liquid at the 2 gallon mark, start it at 2 gallons. If a recipe calls for 6 gallons of water for the mash and sparge, then, fill it with 7-8 gallons so that you stop just before it goes below the 2 gallon mark.

 

[cod3ck]

Fare point.

I guess I was more wondering if I can get away with punching that low without a leak...

Bad idea then? No one's tried this?! [emoji12]

 

[BBBF]

Mine is that low, but it's welded. Do you have someone that could do the welding if it doesn't seal? Otherwise, I'd rather be safe than sorry.

 

[dmcman73]

Welded that low would work but going on that curve may be tricky.....weldless will leak because of the curve at the bottom that would prevent a tight seal. That's one of the reason why valves are not that low in the kettle.

 

[Bobby_M]

It would be far better to get a replacement diptube than to risk a hole location that will definitely leak.

 

[cod3ck]

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Bobby -- have you ever tried something like this with bending the washer flush to the keg so it still compresses snugly over the weldless gasket? That's the only thought that still intrigues me with this. Not ideal, but I wonder if it'd work..?