I'm building a Recirculating Electric BIAB kettle and I'm a little concerned after reading about scorching that can occur when recirculating faster than the grain bed is flowing, exposing the element to air. Has anyone used a float switch under a false bottom to prevent this from happening? I was thinking about using this float switch under my false bottom. My false bottom will be 3 1/2" from the bottom of the kettle and the top of my element should be no higher than 1 3/4". I was thinking I could mount it right below the false bottom and interupt the DC side of my SSR with it. I plan to use a pair of PWM controlled 24V solar hot water pumps, 1 to recirculate through the mash, and one to maintain a small WP under the false bottom to help avoid any scorching or hot spots.
If you have experience with this type of float, how far below mount does liquid have to get to cut off switch? How has it held up and is it a problem to keep clean?
Also, the listing says it is 1/2" PT threads (couldn't find any with NPT), and from what I can gather, that is the same as BSP or BSPT threads. I found these couplings which I think will work. My plan would be to cut the coupling in half and weld to the kettle. Can anyone confirm this or know of a NPT mount float switch?
The other option would be to mount a weldless style with a nut and gasket like this one.
Thanks for any input
If you have experience with this type of float, how far below mount does liquid have to get to cut off switch? How has it held up and is it a problem to keep clean?
Also, the listing says it is 1/2" PT threads (couldn't find any with NPT), and from what I can gather, that is the same as BSP or BSPT threads. I found these couplings which I think will work. My plan would be to cut the coupling in half and weld to the kettle. Can anyone confirm this or know of a NPT mount float switch?
The other option would be to mount a weldless style with a nut and gasket like this one.
Thanks for any input