First Brew: Sinking Feeling I Ruined It

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quist

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Hey all! Seems like a great community here. I didn't see my issue specifically in the stickies, so I'd like to post it here

Through a combination of unexpected visitors and a propane tank going empty, I never got my wort to a complete boil.

I would say that I had the hop pellets going for about 45 minutes between 180 and 200 F. I set the burner down because I was afraid of a boil over. When I got back I kicked them up and got the wort to about 205 or a little higher and my flame went out...lol

I had to make a decision...so I cooled it, pitched my yeast at 75 and put it away

I thought no big deal, but after poking around here it seems like the boiling is a pretty big deal.

The recipe kit was a combo malted extract and grains if that helps

Is it ruined? Should I boil it tomorrow and re pitch yeast? Let it ride? What should I do?
 
I agree, let it ride and see how it turns out. The extract doesn't need to be boiled and you got it hot enough to pasteurize anything on the grain. But if for some reason it doesn't turn out, don't try to fix batches or you'll end up with 2 bad batches. Just rebrew and start again.
 
I agree, let it ride and see how it turns out. The extract doesn't need to be boiled and you got it hot enough to pasteurize anything on the grain. But if for some reason it doesn't turn out, don't try to fix batches or you'll end up with 2 bad batches. Just rebrew and start again.

+1.

Worst case scenario, you learn a valuable lesson.

Best case scenario, you get a drinkable product and learn a valuable lesson.

Either way, you learn a valuable lesson. Whatever this batch is, the next WILL be better. You will be fine.

There are few among us who haven't had a failed batch- or two or three or more. Might as well get yours out of the way early.

Or as we like to say, relax. Don't worry. Have a beer.
 
I'll bet it will be a little less bitter than you were shooting for, but I agree, ferment it out and you will probably have something you won't mind drinking, at least. The tastebuds are very accommodating on your first batch!
 
Why don't you post the recipe? It may just be a different beer than anticipated. For instance you could just have an IPA that taste more like a pale ale. Or if it's something pretty malty you may just be able to add some corn sugar to thin it out and balance with the subdued hops. No matter what you made beer. I wouldn't recommend doing anything to drastic.
 
Let it ride for sure. You're going to be 5 batches into this hobby and laughing at yourself for worrying about the first one in no time!
 
More re than likely you had it hot enough an long enough to kill most or any bugs, I'd say you're good. Now distract your worries by planning the next brew!
 
I don't see a problem. Where I live water boils at 196, so your wort got hotter than mine ever does. If it were all grain you'd have a dms problem, but extract doesn't really need to be boiled.
 
My first 20L AG batch never came to a full boil. Turned out delicious!
 
Might have a little less perceived hop bitterness, but I think it will still taste good.

75° was a high pitching temp. Be sure to keep the temperature of the wort within the optimum range of the yeast you used for the first few days.
 
Might have a little less perceived hop bitterness, but I think it will still taste good.

75° was a high pitching temp. Be sure to keep the temperature of the wort within the optimum range of the yeast you used for the first few days.
Interesting. The recipe called for pitching at 80. But looking at the label on the dry yeast packet, it listed 77 as the max, so I figured 75 would be OK.

For temp control, I bought one of those large buckets with the rope handles. I left the ice that I used for the cold bath in there overnight. That water was about 60 this morning

The recipe lists fermentation temp between 58-74. Being in central Florida, keeping the ambient temp below 74 at all times is cost prohibitive. I have read here that people toss in frozen water bottles so I did that this morning. Hopefully that will keep it down
 
Why don't you post the recipe? It may just be a different beer than anticipated. For instance you could just have an IPA that taste more like a pale ale. Or if it's something pretty malty you may just be able to add some corn sugar to thin it out and balance with the subdued hops. No matter what you made beer. I wouldn't recommend doing anything to drastic.
This one was a wheat, so I guess I may lose some balance. I'll post the recipe in here when I get home from work tonight

I was also planning on adding some fruit for second fermentation. In this case, strawberries since they are in season.

Any tips on that?
 
My tip is don't make your first batch too complicated. You will learn more if you keep it simple. If you really really really want to add fruit to your beer at least bottle a few clean ones when you rack it to the secondary so you can taste the kit and your brewing process in its intended form. Debugging any problems you have with sanitation, oxidation, etc is going to be a lot harder when fruit is added.
 
If its a wheat than it will be fine. I'm sure it will still taste great. U wouldn't do anything to change it.
 
My tip is don't make your first batch too complicated. You will learn more if you keep it simple. If you really really really want to add fruit to your beer at least bottle a few clean ones when you rack it to the secondary so you can taste the kit and your brewing process in its intended form. Debugging any problems you have with sanitation, oxidation, etc is going to be a lot harder when fruit is added.
Great advice. Thank you.
 
If / When you get to All-grain the boil is much more important. It is during the boil you off-gas off-flavors.

Since you're extract brewing, the grains were boiled before they got to you.
 
If / When you get to All-grain the boil is much more important. It is during the boil you off-gas off-flavors.

Since you're extract brewing, the grains were boiled before they got to you.

^^ ding ding.

An aside:

This could be a major problem for an all-grain brewer, especially when using lighly kilned malt (e.g., pilsner). SMS in the malt converts to DMS at those temps. The boil will remove the DMS with the vapors. Otherwise, the DMS would make the beer taste just like creamed corn - I know from experience this is completely undrinkable and it won't go away with time. This is also why all-grain brewers should not boil with the lid on.
 
^^ ding ding.



An aside:



This could be a major problem for an all-grain brewer, especially when using lighly kilned malt (e.g., pilsner). SMS in the malt converts to DMS at those temps. The boil will remove the DMS with the vapors. Otherwise, the DMS would make the beer taste just like creamed corn - I know from experience this is completely undrinkable and it won't go away with time. This is also why all-grain brewers should not boil with the lid on.


Find more creative ways to boil with the lid for protection. I use a hop spider in my all-grain batches and it sticks up just enough that when it put my lid on top of the spider it covers the hole in the pot but sits flush with the sidewalls where the handles are and creates a nice gap to let steam out while keeping the bugs and leaves out. While I'm still able to keep up over a gallon per hour boil off.
 
This is also why all-grain brewers should not boil with the lid on.

Is... is this not a thing for extract brewers?

My stove is right on the cusp of being able to get 2.5 gallons rolling. After additions, I'll often throw the lid back on for a couple minutes or so just to get it going again, then take it back off because creamed corn is not a delicious beer flavor. It would be easier to just throw it on and leave it on.

Of course, what I'm reading here suggests that it's not absolutely imperative to have a full-on rolling boil at all times, so maybe I don't need to do the pot-lid hokey pokey.
 
Is... is this not a thing for extract brewers?

My stove is right on the cusp of being able to get 2.5 gallons rolling. After additions, I'll often throw the lid back on for a couple minutes or so just to get it going again, then take it back off because creamed corn is not a delicious beer flavor. It would be easier to just throw it on and leave it on.

Of course, what I'm reading here suggests that it's not absolutely imperative to have a full-on rolling boil at all times, so maybe I don't need to do the pot-lid hokey pokey.

I don't think it's a problem for extract brewing, but I'm not sure. I blew through extract brewing pretty quickly, but logically it should not be a problem since the wort was boiled already to create the extract. But to be honest, I don't know how long they boil it (although they do need to reduce it somehow).

Google can probably provide the correct answer, as well as lots of guesses shrouded as answers, straight-out falsehoods, and utter BS such as I occasionally sling :) It's your job to separate the wheat from the chaff.
 
It isn't a problem for extract otherwise late additions would be problematic.
 
Is... is this not a thing for extract brewers?

My stove is right on the cusp of being able to get 2.5 gallons rolling. After additions, I'll often throw the lid back on for a couple minutes or so just to get it going again, then take it back off because creamed corn is not a delicious beer flavor. It would be easier to just throw it on and leave it on.

Of course, what I'm reading here suggests that it's not absolutely imperative to have a full-on rolling boil at all times, so maybe I don't need to do the pot-lid hokey pokey.

When I did extract brews on the stove I've had the same problem with not being able to sustain rolling boils with the lid on part way. Mind you I tried to boil 6 gallons in an 8 gallon kettle. I didn't know HBT and it's much better to split the extract 1/3 in boil and 2/3 at flameout.

On one stove I could use 2 burners, the largest one plus the one behind it (14" wide pot). In the new house on the new stove with a huge 12" triple element I still needed to keep the lid on part ways or part time to keep the boil. Same situation when doing partial mash and later, all grain.

During those 4 years I never had a DMS/cooked corn problem. I think leaving the lid part-on is fine, just make sure there's a good opening for steam to escape, as large as possible while maintaining a solid boil . A vent hood may help draw it off faster too.

I just made the move to an IC3500 induction plate. It solved many boiling problems all at once...
 
By way of update, I got home tonight and it was bubbling. So I'm at least getting fermentation lol! It was bubbling every 2-3 seconds. The water bath surrounding the bucket was at 67 degrees. I tossed in 4 frozen water bottles to keep it cool

Here is the recipe per thisisbeer's request :)

It's a Sunshine Wheat clone

3 lbs liquid malt extract
3 lbs dry malt extract
4 oz Honey malt
1 oz Hallertau Hops
1/2 oz Bitter Orange Peel (in 2 packages. 1 added 15 min before end of boil and then 1 minute before)
2 tsp Coriander (same deal as orange peel
WB-06 Dry yeast
 
You will be fine. The temps you got to will be high enough to extract the coriander and bitter orange peel. I don't think you will have any issues. I haven't done a ton of fruit beers but with that much orange peel and coriander I would think twice before adding any fruit to it.
 
Wanted to give an update. Like you all said, the brew is doing great!

Fermentation slowed significantly so I tested the gravity. Hit 1.014. Recipe says final is between 12-14. So I think I will let it go a few more days

It smells great, color is golden brown. It's cloudy, but its a wheat so I don't really care. I tasted the hydro sample and it tastes like good beer! The sample was a little bubbly. I'm not sure what that is an indication of..in terms of doneness. No off flavors at all. Im a bit surprised how good it tastes to be honest
 
I'm not sure what that is an indication of..in terms of doneness. No off flavors at all. Im a bit surprised how good it tastes to be honest

Wait a couple more days and see where the SG is at. If its the same as your last reading its done, if its lower then it is still fermenting and wait a couple more days and take a reading again. I usually wait until I have 3 of the same readings over a few days to confirm that fermentation is done.

Now having said that, I really don't even worry about it anymore. I just let my beer sit in the primary for 3 or 4 weeks untouched and go from there. Unless you are moving it to a secondary or adding other stuff to the beer, there really is no reason to care about when the primary fermentation is complete. Even when its complete the beer still has to settle and clean up before you will bottle.
 
Wait a couple more days and see where the SG is at. If its the same as your last reading its done, if its lower then it is still fermenting and wait a couple more days and take a reading again. I usually wait until I have 3 of the same readings over a few days to confirm that fermentation is done.

Now having said that, I really don't even worry about it anymore. I just let my beer sit in the primary for 3 or 4 weeks untouched and go from there. Unless you are moving it to a secondary or adding other stuff to the beer, there really is no reason to care about when the primary fermentation is complete. Even when its complete the beer still has to settle and clean up before you will bottle.
After reading a bit here, I am convinced that sticking to primary is best in most cases. So if you were moving to secondary for fruit, you would move it when you hit final gravity?

I have been talked out of using fruit this time, lol. Just curious for next time. I considered splitting half off to the secondary with fruit and leaving half in the primary for a week so I can see the difference between the two, but it feels complicated when it comes to bottling in making sure the priming sugar is even and reading stuff about too much headspace
 
After reading a bit here, I am convinced that sticking to primary is best in most cases. So if you were moving to secondary for fruit, you would move it when you hit final gravity?

I have been talked out of using fruit this time, lol. Just curious for next time. I considered splitting half off to the secondary with fruit and leaving half in the primary for a week so I can see the difference between the two, but it feels complicated when it comes to bottling in making sure the priming sugar is even and reading stuff about too much headspace

I do everything pretty much in my primary. I have to admit I never put fruit in my beer so I can't give any advice on that. My additions are so far restricted to dry hopping and adding sugar syrup to dry out the beer when need be. Once you brew a few beers and pay attention to the first week you can tell what your beer is doing by just looking at it for a couple seconds.

If you do go to a secondary, you want as little headspace as possible due to the risk of oxidation.
 

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