First Brew on Robobrew V3 (no pump) Experience

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Leapsandbounds

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Still had some debris despite the bottom screen.
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The boil was pretty good and I had no fears of a boil over.

Before I bought my Robobrew I spent a lot of time reading people’s experiences and felt like I should add my own.

First off, I bought the Robobrew mostly because it was larger than the mash & boil and it came with a chiller that I might need.

Anyways, I brewed a 5 gallon batch of pale ale with 12 pounds of grain. I used the Grainfather app to determine volumes for strike water (4.8 gallons) and sparge water (2.2 gallons).

The mash seemed pretty thick using these numbers but everything seemed to work well. I had to stir the mash during sparging because it was draining extremely slow on its own. It did take about an hour to reach a boil but I did use 70 degree f water for sparging. Other than longer heating times everything else was the same. I thought cleanup was really easy too. All-in-all I’m really happy with my first brewday.
 
The mash seemed pretty thick using these numbers but everything seemed to work well.

The mash was likely thick because there's a full 1.25 gallons of wort that is sitting underneath the false bottom. IMO, the pump is pretty imperative with these units cause either your mash is super thick or you use more water which takes away from your sparge water which lowers your efficiency. If you had the pump version you can mash in with the pump running and it does a good job of keeping more of the liquid in the mash and also better maintains temps.


Rev.
 
The mash was likely thick because there's a full 1.25 gallons of wort that is sitting underneath the false bottom. IMO, the pump is pretty imperative with these units cause either your mash is super thick or you use more water which takes away from your sparge water which lowers your efficiency. If you had the pump version you can mash in with the pump running and it does a good job of keeping more of the liquid in the mash and also better maintains temps.


Rev.
I suppose I wanted a slight step up from propane heated BIAB. I had concluded that the thicker mash was from the dead space (or limited malt pipe area). I suppose I could use a larger volume and simply boil longer to reduce final volume. However, thus far, I am happy with the results. I could always try BIAB using this system rather than the malt pipe which might help with efficiency.
 
So long as the bag can withstand the direct heat of the element that should indeed rectify the issue.

Rev.
 
I do BIAB with my Robobrew and it works great. Had Wilser make a custom bag for it, ditched the malt pipe. No pump. I just stir every 10-15 minutes during the mash.
 
I do BIAB with my Robobrew and it works great. Had Wilser make a custom bag for it, ditched the malt pipe. No pump. I just stir every 10-15 minutes during the mash.


I assume the false bottom provides enough clearance to avoid scorching the bag? I might give BIAB a go on my next batch.
 
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I have a Grainfather, which is pretty much identical. While these systems function quite well straight out of the box with no extra considerations there does seem to be a bit of a learning/tweaking curve to get the smoothest and easiest brew day out of them.

If you are using the Grainfather calculators for your Robobrew I don't think mash thickness is a problem as the dead volume already seems to be accounted for. I haven't experienced an overly thick mash using their calculator.

When I started using my system I got a lot of particulates going through the false bottom, like in the OPs picture. This was solved by adding a fine SS mesh screen on top of the false bottom. This is the only physical hack I have made to my system.

I used to just mill my grain then mash-in by adding the milled grain into the Grainfather and stirring. Sometimes I found I was unseating the false bottom a little bit with the stirring, which contributed to grain escaping the grain pipe. Also, even with stirring and recirculation I was having issues with inconsistent efficiencies, which I eventually discovered was due to small dough balls that are hard to break up when stirring in the grain pipe with that overflow pipe in the middle. This was solved by spending an extra 2 minutes conditioning the grain prior to milling and, rather than milling into a bucket and pouring the grain into the Grainfather, I mill right into the grain pipe then gently lower this into the mash water. Its basically like underletting. This is so effective I don't even have to stir. Sparges are a breeze because the grain conditioning prevents the husks from being shredded while milling, resulting in a grain bed with better flow properties. Best 2 minutes spent ever. Efficiencies increased and became super predictable. I wish I had come across these simple processes modifications right away. Some or all of these really simple things might help with your Robobrew.

I have done BIAB in my Grainfather - it was simple and effective and clearly others are doing it with the Robobrew. For what it is worth, however, I think it eliminates the strength of these systems when used with a pump. With a recirculating pump it is a lot easier to hold the temperatures steady and even throughout the mash. Perhaps the importance of this is debatable. But a recirculating pump makes adding temperatures steps into your mashes super easy - just dial in the new temp, no stirring necessary, no hot spots.

Just some thoughts for you. Hope they help. Cheers.
 
The #'s you get from the Gf app is for that vessel. The RB might have more / less loss due to different area size.
 
I’ve never used a pump but I don’t see why you couldn’t. My lid even has a hole for the pump tubing.
I was thinking due to the space below the basket, you might lose some efficiency with a gallon just sitting down there. recirculating should improve things. otherwise you would probably have to calculate amount of water needed to reach the bottom of basket, add that amount to your mash water calculation. 1.5 quarts per lb, or whatever.
 
I have a Grainfather, which is pretty much identical. While these systems function quite well straight out of the box with no extra considerations there does seem to be a bit of a learning/tweaking curve to get the smoothest and easiest brew day out of them...

Thanks hopjuice for the tips. I really think conditioning is a key component. I’m looking at the Robobrew without the pump. I’m a fan of simple and “Zen”. I’m ok with stirring and a big fan of gravity (as in the Earth’s), so I think I will skip the pump.
 
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I've had good experience using a Wilser bag as a mash filter inside the mash pipe. However, I did silver solder the false bottom to the bottom rim of the mash pipe so it does not budge. I don't trust it as two separate pieces after having it fall out from underneath a load of grain, rather be safe than sorry. Being able to lift out the mash pipe with the grain bag filter keeps my brew space cleaner. I no longer do full brews in my robobrew, just use it as an electric mash tun.
I too have the no pump version, but modified it to use my pump system for recirculation.
 
jimfire85,
Why don’t you use the Robobrew for the full process anymore? Were you finding it too slow to get up to boil? Any other reason?
 
While mine was out of commission due to the circuit board self destructing and waiting for replacement parts, I ended up just gathering the rest of the parts needed to complete my 240v 5500w system. So I heat water and boil with that rather than the robo. Once I replaced the board on the robobrew I designated it my mash tun / kettle sour vessel. I'm leery of putting it through hard use like I previously had, I may do full brews in it sometime in the future since it's easy to transport, so for the purpose of teaching a friend to brew at their house and what not. I didn't mind the temp times too much on it since I would crank it up to boiling temp as soon as the sparged began, once that was done boiling was just a few minutes away. But I am spoiled now by how fast I can reach temps on my new system. Using the robobrew as a mash tun works out great though for step mashing and what not. I should mention in its current use I do not lift the mash pipe to drain, I just batch sparge and then remove the tube once it's time to throw out the grain.
 

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