I just picked up a 15.8 Gal Ferment King Unitank since there was a huge sale. I have a SS 1/2 BBL conical, but I wanted to try pressurized fermentation (plus I really miss seeing what's going on during fermentation). I am debating on fitting with a 2" Tri-Clamp elbow and butterfly valve, or sticking with the stock "collection bottle".
The bottle seems simpler, although with a butterfly valve I suppose I would not have to install the plunger valve.
The instructions state to ferment with the plunger valve open (and collection bottle attached), so there is no over-pressurization of the collection bottle. I was wondering if I could just ferment with the valve closed, and the bottle not installed. Then when I want to dump trub or harvest yeast, hook up the bottle, and lift the plunger valve (then close the valve and leave the bottle off again). Seems like this may also prevent trub from settling where the valve seal needs to rest and possibly causing a slow leak.
Any reason NOT to do it this way?
The other question is if I install a spunding valve, can I eliminate the PRV safety valve? the reason I ask is I prefer to install the spunding valve in the port currently used for the PRV valve (rather than using the gas ball lock). This is due to my chiller setup which is an enclosed box, so the PRV port will allow me to run a 1/2" NPT tube through the top and then hook up the spunding valve (the gas ball lock will then be unused during fermentation).
I forgot to ask... my typical brews are 10 to 12% ABV and almost always have ridiculously active fermentations. With 11 to 12 gals going into a 15.8 Gal fermenter, I ams concerned about krausen blowoff going into the spunding valve. Would this damage the valve or prevent it from releasing pressure? One idea is to use a blow-off tube for the first few days until I see the krausen safely below the neck, then install the spunding valve. What do you think? Would this waste too much natural CO2 and prevent adequate carbonation (I usually shoot for about 15 psi)?
Thanks,
-Greg
The bottle seems simpler, although with a butterfly valve I suppose I would not have to install the plunger valve.
The instructions state to ferment with the plunger valve open (and collection bottle attached), so there is no over-pressurization of the collection bottle. I was wondering if I could just ferment with the valve closed, and the bottle not installed. Then when I want to dump trub or harvest yeast, hook up the bottle, and lift the plunger valve (then close the valve and leave the bottle off again). Seems like this may also prevent trub from settling where the valve seal needs to rest and possibly causing a slow leak.
Any reason NOT to do it this way?
The other question is if I install a spunding valve, can I eliminate the PRV safety valve? the reason I ask is I prefer to install the spunding valve in the port currently used for the PRV valve (rather than using the gas ball lock). This is due to my chiller setup which is an enclosed box, so the PRV port will allow me to run a 1/2" NPT tube through the top and then hook up the spunding valve (the gas ball lock will then be unused during fermentation).
I forgot to ask... my typical brews are 10 to 12% ABV and almost always have ridiculously active fermentations. With 11 to 12 gals going into a 15.8 Gal fermenter, I ams concerned about krausen blowoff going into the spunding valve. Would this damage the valve or prevent it from releasing pressure? One idea is to use a blow-off tube for the first few days until I see the krausen safely below the neck, then install the spunding valve. What do you think? Would this waste too much natural CO2 and prevent adequate carbonation (I usually shoot for about 15 psi)?
Thanks,
-Greg
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