Fermentation help

[txhomebrew77]

This is my first batch of homebrew. I bought a kit from Midwest brewing along with a European Pilsner. I followed all the instructions, sanitized correctly, but forgot to aerate the wort when I poured it into the bucket. After doing some research, others had mentioned that it would most likely be okay. Per Midwest brewing's instructions, the first 1-3 days I kept it in a temperature of 60-65 degrees. I then moved the beer into 40-65 degrees after 2 days. After moving it, I have noticed that the bubbler is no longer bubbling (not sure if I possibly might have not filled it correctly, however the water is under the max mark, possibly not enough?) I also opened the bucket to peek and noticed there is no krausen. Is there anything wrong here, or is this normal?

 

[Mx750ktm]

Take this with a grain of salt as I'm pretty new here as well but I've never heard that after 3 days of active fermentation that you would want to place it somewhere cooler such as the 45 degree range. From what I understand depending on which yeast strain you used would determine your optimal fermentation temperate. Something I recently learned as well is that while your ambient temp may be 64 the wort while in active fermentation can actually raise up to 10 degrees warmer so you would want to make sure the actual wort temp dosnt get to hot. But I'm thinking you probably shouldn't move it anywhere lower than 60 at this point it could cause the yeast to slow down. S

 

[ScottG58]

Sounds like a lager kit. Lager yeast ferment colder than ale yeast.

You need a large starter to do lagers. Mr Malty website has a good calculator.

You might give this yeast some time to multiply. You might need to let it rest in the low 60s.

You might consider working with a forgiving ale yeast for your next brew. WLP001 and Wyeast 1056 the California ale strains are easy to work with and clean if fermented in their temperature ranges.

 

[carluchi]

Agreed, a lager is a bit ambitious for your first brew. I took a look at the Midwest kit and it is a lager yeast which means you do need to ferment this at cooler temps.

Also its a bottom fermenting yeast so you may not see a krausen. Let it ride and take a gravity reading after 2 weeks to see where you are at. Keep in mind the lager will also need time to 'lager' so you might want to start your second brew, which I suggest to be an Ale as Scott recommends.

 

[BigFloyd]

Agreed, a lager is a bit ambitious for your first brew. I took a look at the Midwest kit and it is a lager yeast which means you do need to ferment this at cooler temps.

Also its a bottom fermenting yeast so you may not see a krausen. Let it ride and take a gravity reading after 2 weeks to see where you are at. Keep in mind the lager will also need time to 'lager' so you might want to start your second brew, which I suggest to be an Ale as Scott recommends.

+1.

If you bought that kit with the S-23 dry yeast, you should have:

1) used two packets (lagers need TWICE the yeast that ales do). Fortunately, since dry yeast is packaged with sterols (which provide O2 during the initial aerobic reproduction phase), thorough aeration is the better practice but isn't quite as crucial as it is with liquid yeast (especially lagers).

2) pitched and fermented in the mid-50's until it was 75-80% of the way from OG to expected FG then raised the temp to the mid-60's for a diacetyl rest.

If you're going to brew year-round in Texas, it's essential to take some extra steps to control temperatures (pitch and ferment). If you have the room, a used freezer or fridge with an STC-1000 controller is hard to beat, especially if you want to do lagers correctly.