Fermentation can take 24 to 72 hrs to show visible signs.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I've had many pros say you don't need to see bubblin to know there's fermentation so I'm gonna say take a FG and wait 48 hours and take another FG. If there's little to know change, get a bottling
 
Wsh I had read this last night. Haha!

Made my first ever batch yesterday. New Zealand Honey IPA. My wife got me the kit for Christmas.

This morning, I noticed NOTHING in the air lock. I opened it up and saw NOTHING had changed. Called the store and they suggested moving the bucket to a warmer location (therm was reading 64-66). I moved it to a closet and wrapped in a blanket. Within 3 hours, the air lock is reacting!!

I really thought I had messed something up. Now I can't wait til I get to drink it when it's done!!!
 
I will say though, let's not advocate that thinking fermentation starting in more than 12 hours is a good thing. It isn't. Any longer than 12 hours and you are looking for trouble--infections, sub-par beer and quite frankly it is a bad brewing practice.

:ban:
 
I started primary fermentation 8 days ago. There's little krausen on top and I've seen no bubbling in the airlock. I've kept the brew at at constant temp of 64-65 degrees in a closet. At this point do I pitch it or keep going?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I started primary fermentation 8 days ago. There's little krausen on top and I've seen no bubbling in the airlock. I've kept the brew at at constant temp of 64-65 degrees in a closet. At this point do I pitch it or keep going?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew


Take a gravity reading.
 
tmmore52

Just because there are no visible signs of fermentation does not mean fermentation has stopped. Take gravity readings once every 3 days until the gravity stops changing. If it's not where you intended it to be, you can rouse up the yeast by sanitizing a ladle and stirring the wort (this is typical with high gravity beers). If this doesn't do it, you could have a stuck fermentation on your hands.

:mug:
 
I just had one of these stealth fermentations. Brewed a session IPA Sunday and the airlock was dead still all week. Finally decided to open it up to see what was happening and it had some krausen and the SG was down about 10 points, so I put a different lid and air lock on it and it's now bubbling away.
 
Hi everyone. New brewer here. I started the fermenting process last Saturday and as of today, 7 days later, I have zero signs of bubble action in my airlock. Should I open the lid and see what's up? Thanks for any advice!



Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
My SG was at 1.050 last Saturday and I just checked it and it's at 1.020. Is that a bad sign? The brew smells fine and there were no visual signs if infections.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Now you know that airlocks don't always show fermentation activity as you have fermentation as proved by your readings. You are making beer.
 
I talked to my local home brew store and they said that I may need a yeast energizer as well as bring the temperature up a few degrees. It's been at a steady 62 degrees for seven days


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Moved it from my basement to my living room and within 2 hours it has started bubbling. Temp slowly climbing


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
 
Im new to brewing and this is my first extract batch.

I pitched a us-05 yeast yesterday and it dropped to bottom instantly. It has gone about 16 hours now and the foam is starting to build up.
I was just curious if its standard for the yeast to drop to the bottom of the fermenter? Should i shake it so it spreads out?
 
Im new to brewing and this is my first extract batch.



I pitched a us-05 yeast yesterday and it dropped to bottom instantly. It has gone about 16 hours now and the foam is starting to build up.

I was just curious if its standard for the yeast to drop to the bottom of the fermenter? Should i shake it so it spreads out?


99% it is just fine.

My first batch was from Midwest Supplies, the amber ale. After I realized the kit yeast was dead (36 hours of absolutely no activity), I pitched us-05 as a rescue yeast. And it was just fine.

Shake it if you feel like it, but beware of oxidation. If it is fermenting? Let it be.



Gesendet von meinem iPhone mit Home Brew
 
It should be fermenting since the air-lock is bubbling plus the foam has started to build up on top of the brew. I will just leave it as is and see how it turns out!
 
Wouldn't be surprised if a lot of these complaints are due to poorly sealed lids.


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Brewed a cream ale on Sunday. How long should I leave UT in my fermenter bucket? LBS said a week or as soon as it is finished bubbling. Can I leave it in for 2 weeks. Also the temp tape on my bucket us holding at 67 ish. Is that a good temp?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Brewed a cream ale on Sunday. How long should I leave UT in my fermenter bucket? LBS said a week or as soon as it is finished bubbling. Can I leave it in for 2 weeks. Also the temp tape on my bucket us holding at 67 ish. Is that a good temp?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Home Brew mobile app

What does he recommend you do with the beer after 'as soon as it stops bubbling?' Secondary?
 
She said bottle Don't want to keep it in plastic to long.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Home Brew mobile app
You will end up with a less yeasty finished product if you wait 2 or 3 weeks before bottling. If you have a cold garage, you can put it there for 3-4 days after the gravity is stable. This helps clear the yeast even more. If you don't have a hydrometer to measure the gravity, wait at least two weeks before putting it in the garage.

There are different ways to do things, and the woman at the LHBS wasn't necessarily wrong but most people on this forum have found the most consistent results for beginning brewers come from keeping the beer in the primary for several weeks.
 
Here's a yeast/krausen question that has arisen with my latest batch:

I have only done three batches, all with buckets and NB extract kits. My first two I pitched the yeast dry onto the wort, witnessed the bubbling and layer of krausen, then when I bottled the krausen had subsided and the surface was free of copious amounts of foam. I was preparting to bottle my third batch today, the NB SMaSH extract kit, and went to take the FG to see if it was in fact ready. It's been 14 days so I was a bit surprised to open the bucket and see a thick layer of foam still present on the beer. On this brew however I pitched rehydrated Danstar BRY-97 West Coast Ale yeast. My question would be this: is it OK to rack and bottle a beer with foam still present on the surface or should it ultimately all have fallen prior to being ready to bottle. I held off on taking a sample to test FG because of the layer of foam. Thank's to anyone who can put my noob nerves at ease. Cheers.:confused:
 
14 days in I would have taken a reading from under the foam. I've had persistent kruesan before that didn't go away and the beer underneath was at FG. You can give it more time if you want it certainly won't hurt anything but like I said after 2 weeks your probably at or FG in my opinion anyway. I suppose ultimately it would depend on the recipe of the batch brewed though.


Sent from somewhere to someone
 
Is there a correlation between the krausen dropping and fermentation completion?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
First post, third brew in progress. BrewersBestIPA. In secondary fermenter since Sunday, how long should I secondary ferment? Also, are clarifies worth it?


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Another new brewer here. As i forgot to aerate my wort, i shook my fermentor after pitching my yeast. I also used almost double the yeast since i made brewed a Double IPA... I hope i didn't make it too hard on the yeast.

Do you think it'll be fine?
 
Yeah,it should be fine. I think most of us aerate before pitching yeast to keep some yeast from getting up the sides of the fermenter above the liquid line.
Don't wanna waste any cells...:mug:
 
Is it bad to ferment primary at about 55F when it says stay between 65-75F temperature? Does it just slow the process in a colder temp. or will it ruin the beer?
 
Is it bad to ferment primary at about 55F when it says stay between 65-75F temperature? Does it just slow the process in a colder temp. or will it ruin the beer?


Most likely, the yeast will go to sleep and not completely ferment the beer. You need to get that temp up ASAP and get those yeast working again.
 
I looked around the forum and thought I should have posted the issue below as a new thread - so I just did it

Hello, I'm Rob - new member, and not much experience with brewing and forums. I'm not sure if my question belongs in this thread - please advise on that.

I'm brewing a Duval clone. It calls for what I think of as an actual refermentation - with 8 oz cane sugar (boiled in 2 cups water) and another vial of WLP 545 being added when racking to second carboy. I'm wondering if the refermentation is going well.

First Fermentation, I pitched at 70 deg. using a starter made from 1 vial of WLP 545, shook the carboy, and fermented at around 70 to 73 degrees.

My limited experience indicates that the first fermentation went well - within 12 hrs a vigorous stage with krausen blowing into the blowoff jar - 7 days later, just some bubbling, down to around 10 per minute.

Then, last Sunday, I poured the 8 oz cane sugar boiled in 2 cups water and cooled, and another vial of WLP 545 (no starter this time) directly into the empty second carboy, then carefully racked using only the stream of the beer at the bottom to somewhat mix the ingredients.

At that point the beer was around 72 deg, I then let it sit from last Sunday to yesterday (Wednesday) at around 70 deg., and then looked at it and noticed it did not have a vigorous stage and was bubbling around the same rate as before racking.

So I brought it into a warmer room and its been around 76 deg for about a day. it's still bubbling roughly at the same rate (maybe a bit more) as before the second fermentation. There is what I'd judge to be only a little "movement" visible in the beer in the carboy (compared to the extent of action during a vigorous period).

I realize there's a big difference in the amount of fermentable sugars between the two fermentations, but I don't know if that's the reason.

I'm wondering if something's gone wrong, and if so is there anything I should do.

Thank You.
 
Ok I'm not panicking yet but I pitched about 24 hours ago and I've no real sign of activity. I rehydrated US-05 but I'm afraid I put some water into it that was too hot and I killed the yeast. I gave the carboy a shake and I raised up some big clumps of yeast all stuck together. Whats the prognosis here?
 
Ok I'm not panicking yet but I pitched about 24 hours ago and I've no real sign of activity. I rehydrated US-05 but I'm afraid I put some water into it that was too hot and I killed the yeast. I gave the carboy a shake and I raised up some big clumps of yeast all stuck together. Whats the prognosis here?
how hot was the water?
 
how hot was the water?

I don't really know. I had boiled water and then added tap water to get to 35C to add the yeast, then it was a bit below 35 and added another bit of the boiled water to it again but it had been sitting so it was well below boiling temp.

I didn't feel like the rehydration process went well over all. It was my first time rehydrating and it was my first AG day so I was a bit flustered while doing it. Wishing I'd just pitched it dry now.
 
Back
Top