Fermentap Weldless Spigot pains (with pics)

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Mellow52

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Product Page here:
http://fermentap.com/view_product/19793/100550

Instructions here:
http://morebeer.com/public/pdf/WL101.pdf

Just a heads up for anyone thinking of a Fermentap Weldless Spigot. I have a nice polar double bottom kettle and wanted to install a spigot since I am now doing full boils. I got a Fermentap Weldless Spigot from my LHBS and followed the instructions precisely. I do have a shop setup for light machine work so it is not like I used a cheap step bit with a handheld drill.

I used a 7/8" RotaCut bit on a bench mounted drill press. The hole placement (center) is 1 1/2" up so the washer does not bottom out on the inside curvature of where the kettle side and bottom meet. The hole is exactly 7/8" and after 3 hours of messing with it and a lost brew day I set sail to my LHBS. They spent about a hour and tried a new spigot but came up with the same result, a LEAK.

I now sit with a hole in my kettle, aging crushed grains and more than a slight dislike towards Fermentap.com

I am now searching for a welder in the area. So I am in it for many hours and who knows how many $$. :mad:

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looks like youve got the washer in the wrong order
should be valve->washer->gasket->kettle->gasket->washer/bolt
 
odd design. doesnt seem to take into account the width of the kettle or the final location once you've reached tighting by npt.

npt states that the threads will taper to cause your connection (valve and nipple) to tighten. your gasket must seal up against the kettle. if the valve tightens before the gasket seals against the kettle, you' ll leak.
 
odd design. doesnt seem to take into account the width of the kettle or the final location once you've reached tighting by npt.

npt states that the threads will taper to cause your connection (valve and nipple) to tighten. your gasket must seal up against the kettle. if the valve tightens before the gasket seals against the kettle, you' ll leak.

I had the same thought about the taper but I did get it to compress the gasket well before the taper came into play but still no seal with a 5 gal fill.

I am done messing with this. The coupler has an OD of 1" so I will now drill a 1" hole and have a welder tig in the coupler. So much for saving some $$. I recommend spending the bucks and get a kettle with factory spigot.
 
spend a couple more dollars on another metal washer and a silicon gasket.

if you are in a pinch and can't find the right sized washer for outside the kettle, you can use a conduit type washer that sizes from 3/4" to 1/2" that will work on your valve side.

looks like this but don't buy 250! 2 costs like $1.25

buy some bottle nipples and cut the nipple part off so you have a flat silicon disc to use for a washer.
 
$30 weld later I am back in business. It looks like Fermentap.com is going to make good on the extra expense.
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I drilled a 7/8" hole approximately and also had slow leaks from the fermentap kit. I replaced the silicone gasket with two 314 silicone o-rings 70A durometer, 3/4" ID, 1-1/8" OD, 3/16" width (on amazon) on the inside as well as against the bulkhead on the outside of the pot. I tested with a 6-gal boil for 30 mins and no leaks! They are tight and keep slightly tucked behind the bulkhead to protect it from flame heat.
 
Just got one of these---- the instructions show that the gasket needs to be on the outside of the kettle. Hope that works. :)
 
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