I just checked the yeast I used and it’s called Midland which I think is repackaged Nottingham.
English Ales - What's your favorite recipe?
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Colindo
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@DBhomebrew Would be interesting to know if I'm correct, since I am by no means a Brett expert. Just wanted to mention the ale as something that tasted far more complex than the general commercial ale. I cannot believe Nottingham is the original strain, is that first hand information?
The beer is astonishingly complex and has a slight sour note. Not necessarily horse blanket, so there might be other microorganisms involved. But old oak has always been the home for Brettanomyces, no matter if Memel or otherwise. But 2% Black Malt and Nottingham would never create a beer like that. Something special has to happen on the yeast side.
The beer is astonishingly complex and has a slight sour note. Not necessarily horse blanket, so there might be other microorganisms involved. But old oak has always been the home for Brettanomyces, no matter if Memel or otherwise. But 2% Black Malt and Nottingham would never create a beer like that. Something special has to happen on the yeast side.
I have no first hand info. I've brewed a few attempts at a Traquair clone. Never hit it perfectly of course, but have come fairly close. Golden Promise, 2%
ETA: Alworth's book (based on conversation with the Laird) has it as a Scottish ale strain. No mention of Brett or other additional organisms. The memel oak and loosely covered primary of course. You're quite right, it's possible. My subjective opinion is there is no sensory evidence when compared to known brett'd ales. Complex and delicious indeed, but clean.
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NY Times today had a really interesting article on : Luton’s Kenilworth Road… A Premier League stadium like no other
Is this a "typical" looking English pub? It looks fantastic! And has anyone on these boards actually been a patron?
The ABV's were also interesting:
Shine summer ale = 1.7%
Jeffery Hudson bitter = 1.8%
Vimy Bomber = a whopping 4.2%
Is this a "typical" looking English pub? It looks fantastic! And has anyone on these boards actually been a patron?
The ABV's were also interesting:
Shine summer ale = 1.7%
Jeffery Hudson bitter = 1.8%
Vimy Bomber = a whopping 4.2%
InspectorJon
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Well if those won’t get it done, I see they have Bud and Corona in the refrigerator.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
The back bar is very typical of a "white van man" kind of pub - not a real dive, not a gastro pub, just an ordinary town/suburbs kind of pub. But most would have a more interesting gin selection these days, it looks the back bar of someone who just isn't really into spirits.
But 6 cask lines is pretty unusual for that kind of pub, although I guess they need them if they're having to deal with matchday crowds. And for them to be apparently free of tie on cask would be even rarer, although it looks like they have some kind of deal with Oakham who are one of the early microbreweries here, best known for introducing Citra to the UK, at least in the vaguely-mainstream.
And most barstaff manage to look a bit more cheerful!
Those first two ABVs are wrong - Shine is 3.7% and JHB is 3.8%, standard session strength.
But you're going to see a lot of macro brews dropping to 3.4% following a new "Brexit benefit" change to the tax system this month which means that for the biggest brewers, they could save anything up to £100m (US$130m) of tax per year by dropping under 3.4%. The same tax changes tweak the duty step from 7.5% to 8.5%, but make it much more expensive above that, so it's likely to see the death of British beer above that (unless it's contract-brewed thanks to a quirk in the rules).
No one will buy beer at 3.4% and below. Beer in the UK has been getting stronger for years to drop the ABV is suicide for the brewers.
I could see the already low ABV session type beers that tend to float around 3.8% going down to 3.4%, but I think it's unlikely for much else.
DuncB
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Nice bottles.
Any hop growers in here? I have just yesterday put about 100g of dried homegrown hops from a second year plant in the freezer.
Plan on doing a bitter with them as late boil and dry hop additions.
It's an old domestic heritage land-race, smells of green tea and vaguely of some sort of general herbal spicyness.
Plan on doing a bitter with them as late boil and dry hop additions.
It's an old domestic heritage land-race, smells of green tea and vaguely of some sort of general herbal spicyness.
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I have a couple of plants (N Brewer, East Seattle Goldings, Tettnanger and Willamette). This year I was just not feeling it and haven't done anything. The East Seattle Goldings are getting close to harvest.
I've posted this before, but my experience after about 10 years is to make a lightly commercial hopped beer, then dump in however much fresh hops you have at the end of the boil, cross your fingers, and see what turns out. I dried the hops one year, but found that to be too much work, and didn't really taste the uniqueness.
That said, one of my top 5 homebrews of all time included fresh hops. There's no way I will ever re-create that beer, so it lives on in my personal Hall of Fame
I've posted this before, but my experience after about 10 years is to make a lightly commercial hopped beer, then dump in however much fresh hops you have at the end of the boil, cross your fingers, and see what turns out. I dried the hops one year, but found that to be too much work, and didn't really taste the uniqueness.
That said, one of my top 5 homebrews of all time included fresh hops. There's no way I will ever re-create that beer, so it lives on in my personal Hall of Fame
DuncB
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Yes, growing hops, no shoots yet, but giving a bit of water to them and have added manure. Year three and I will be in full attendance around growing season so hoping for a bigger crop that could require preserving. I haven't dried any hops yet. But the fresh hops do work well in the hop rocket.
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Yep, was planning to make a green hop last weekend with my Amos Early Bird (a Goldings clone) but it wasn't *quite* ready, so the plan was to do it Saturday but I've managed to crock myself quite badly so any plan is up in the air at the moment.
Give me a golden ale with green Goldings and I'd be a happy man for life, it really is quite hard to beat.
Give me a golden ale with green Goldings and I'd be a happy man for life, it really is quite hard to beat.
Get well soon!
I'm going to brew a golden ale smash tonight with Golding's to dial in my new Corona mill. Sick and tired of bad crushes from the German homebrew shops... I miss the malt miller.
However, won't be be a green hop beer unfortunately.
I'm going to brew a golden ale smash tonight with Golding's to dial in my new Corona mill. Sick and tired of bad crushes from the German homebrew shops... I miss the malt miller.
However, won't be be a green hop beer unfortunately.
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Was thinking of this recipe :
6 lbs Maris Otter
.75 lbs flaked corn
6 oz Crystal 60L
2 oz Gambrinus Honey
2 oz. Roasted barley
.75 oz Northern Brewer @ 60
0.50 oz EKG @ 30
0.50 oz EKG @ 15
Lalbrew Saison pitched at ~70 F
I'm using the Belle Saison because temp control is out of my control - I don't have time for swamp cooling, so I have to make the best of ambient. From what I've heard, it's a fairly clean saison yeast, not too funky; have also heard that it attenuates highly, so I'm likely to have a very thin, dry beer. Anything I can do to add more body? More flaked corn?
6 lbs Maris Otter
.75 lbs flaked corn
6 oz Crystal 60L
2 oz Gambrinus Honey
2 oz. Roasted barley
.75 oz Northern Brewer @ 60
0.50 oz EKG @ 30
0.50 oz EKG @ 15
Lalbrew Saison pitched at ~70 F
I'm using the Belle Saison because temp control is out of my control - I don't have time for swamp cooling, so I have to make the best of ambient. From what I've heard, it's a fairly clean saison yeast, not too funky; have also heard that it attenuates highly, so I'm likely to have a very thin, dry beer. Anything I can do to add more body? More flaked corn?
Flaked corn is going to have the opposite effect. If you are trying to add body, take it out altogether.
This yeast produces tons of glycerol which prevents the beer from tasting thin. It enhances body so you don't have to do anything in that regard.
It's also not just highly attenuative, it's diastatic. Glycerin may keep it from treating thin, but there's not much you can do to keep it from going dry.
The recipe looks like something like a bitter so dry is not necessarily bad though...
It goes almost completely dry but it won't taste dry. I wasn't clear enough about that, sorry. It will taste like it would with a "normal" fg. That's what the glycerol does.
Took a refractometer sample of my stock ale earlier today @DBhomebrew
It said it was 1.035, I have a hard time believing it...
But at least it will show if the gravity has moved when I check again in 3-4 weeks...
Guess I'll have to use a hydrometer at bottling time to see the real FG. Likely somewhere just under 1.010.
It said it was 1.035, I have a hard time believing it...
But at least it will show if the gravity has moved when I check again in 3-4 weeks...
Guess I'll have to use a hydrometer at bottling time to see the real FG. Likely somewhere just under 1.010.
capt82
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My last brew was an English IPA. I used APEX London ale yeast. Never heard of APEX before but I don't have a local brew shop, only a health foods store that changes up stock all the time. It was very cheap too. I really liked the strong, steady fermentation and high attenuation. The flavor definitely spews "english". The only complaint would be not much, if any body. I would definitely add some flaked oats next time. Anyone have experiences with APEX?
Northern_Brewer
British - apparently some US company stole my name
Apex seems to be dry yeast made in Sweden, so the assumption would be that it's from AEB, who have been aggressively pushing their stuff as white labels recently.
The refractometer said 1.035 or so said the refractometer calculator you used with the OG and current SG in Brix?
The refractometer said 1.035. It reads in the Oechsle scale and is optimised primarily for unfermented worts so I don't really expect it to be accurate with a bunch of alcohol present.
But it can tell wether the gravity is changing or not.
Yeah, so it's not a question of not believing. It's knowing it's not the true FG. But, yes, it will be perfectly serviceable in ascertaining whether it's stable.
Mine's still visibly effervescent!
Mine's still visibly effervescent!
Belle is fairly clean as far as Saison yeasts tend to go (though less so than M29) but it's still, y'know, a Saison yeast, and things brewed with it do have an amount of phenolic funk to them.
It will attenuate to mid 80s especially if fermented warmer. It also throws more pepper/clove when warm. IME beer doesn't have the perception of being bone dry but it's still usually sort of obviously a farmhouse beer.
I think what you're going to end up with is a sort of amber Saison.
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Then I guess I need to change my plan. Maybe I'll take my chances with Nottingham at room temps and see what happens; roll the dice.
Yeah mine was't flat at all.
But there didn't seem to be much activity, a few bubbles slowly rising to the top when I shined my flashlight through the carboy, wich may have been just off gassing.
It was rather clear aswell, and tasted pretty dry, and boozy.
It will definitely need some aging in bottles aswell.
Honestly, a lot of the British strains are pretty resilient. I've fermented with S-04 at ~28°C without it throwing much, if any, weirdness. Do a big pitch to minimise stress and you'll probably be fine.
Or failing that, the lowest attenuating Kveik you can find.
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I have a bitter fermenting right now with Nottingham. I normally use Lallemand dry ESB, but my LHBS was sold out. Since I already had Nottingham in my fridge I decided to just go with it.
No Kveik, would be same storry as with a saison yeast, obviously a farmhouse beer.
I agree with the room temperature notti. S04 can be sour at too high temperature, but that might have changed as they have somehow changed the yeast compared to the old version.
I am going to brew a 40/40/10 Notti/Windsor/t58 blonde, starting the boil atm. Will be room temp as well.
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AmarikinBrew
LOOK! He's diving into that can of beer AGAIN!
You going to stage the yeasts? What average temp are we talking about right now in... what North East Germany? Not to many triple yeast combos, might be fun to see how that turns out.
I have done notti/s04/t58/br8 in the past. Resulted in a nice and complex imperial stout + a strong wheat stout from the yeast cake.
I just threw them in alltogether. No staging this time. I just want them all to go to work. About 20 to 22 C° in my basement. I placed the fermenter in a big tub of water to keep the temperature more stable.
I have used my new corona mill the first time and I had small problems dialing in the gap size. Quite some kenels came out uncracked but still managed to hit about 72% efficiency. Will be about 10 % higher once I figured the whole corona mill thing out.
So this time, it´s a 1.04 OG blonde bitter with about 35 ibus from Goldings 2g/l 30 minute addition and 3g/l whirlpool @65C°.
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Have you seen the suggestions of stabilizing the rotor plate? The way they come they wibble wobble. Once that's done, I tightened mine until the plates' teeth just barely do not rub with no grain running through. Another eigth turn, the would be metal to metal. With grain, they push apart just enough. BIAB, of course.
Lots of suggestions in this here thread, but the washers as shown in this post are key. Also, adjusting or replacing the cotter pin with a plain bolt so the rotor plate sits and stays parallel with the stator plate.
Post in thread 'My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...' My Ugly Junk- Corona Mill Station...
Thank you very much for the link!
My mill looks a bit different to what is shown on the pictures, the screws for the washers are on the side, but they should actually serve the same function. I do not understand how replacing the pins should help with the stability of the rotor plate though. Maybe I just do not understand the technical terms here, not quite sure what the rotor and stator plates are. ...wild guess, rotor plate is the plate that is connected with the whole part that turns and guides the grains in between the grinding plates and the stator plate is the static counterpart of the rotor plate? Would make sense actually.
Replacing the cotter pins with bolts just to get more stability maybe? Mine are actually quite stable but I could see quite some movement of the part that shields the rotor and stator plate from above (the part that is being held in place be the screws with the cotter pins). But to be fair, I am not certain that I tightened the cotter pin screws tight enough.
Thanks for the help!
Cheers!
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