"Element On" lights acting Funky...

[Flaviking]

So I am having an issue with my Kal clone RIMS system. And I am hoping someone has some advice.

My ssistem is using the wiring from http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/


Specifically: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=11

and http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=13


Which I turned into this for the addition of a RIMS element.

https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1PLMG5M-kAxloruvEefAvGRo5pToPV6pViQm21Le3A1c/edit


However, I am seeing that no matter what temp my pid controller is set to, When I turn the relay on for the HLT or BK, the light wont turn on, and when I turn the RIMS relay on, the light wont turn off.

So I know im getting power where I shouldn't and no power where I want it. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction?

I also noticed, that if all three pids have a higher target temp than actual, all three SSR's have a red light turned on, which I assume means they have power flowing through them. seems odd to me, I would think the SSR's would only turn on when you would want them on with the control of the switch.. But I guess they are only drawing power when the relay is connected and the element is in place, right?

 

[RufusBrewer]

ETA Scrapped my first reply.

Noticed your schmatic is a redraw of teh Page 13 on Electric brewer.

Your relay and SSR must both be on to make the light light up.

The RIMS light is probably wireed up on the wronf side of the relay

PIDs can be set two way, "Turn On when you are above the set temperature" or "Turn Off when you are above the set temperature." Make sure youhave that basic setting where you need.

 

[RufusBrewer]

One more thing....

On the Electric Brewery schematic and your schematic, only one end of the shunt is wired, You should have both ends wired for the system to work properly. Maybe it is covered else where on their web site?

 

[Flaviking]

One more thing....

On the Electric Brewery schematic and your schematic, only one end of the shunt is wired, You should have both ends wired for the system to work properly. Maybe it is covered else where on their web site?

Yeah, it's on page 7

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=7

Thank you for the reply. I will take a look at my pid settings tonight. I will also take a look at where the RIMS light is wired on the relay, although I don't think that is it. The RIMS light is wired with the same posts as the element outlet, and all three relay's are wired the same way.

So all three lights would light up and stay lit if that was the issue.

I may have to figure out way to draw a better schematic. I feel like I am getting power through another area that I don't want.

 

[Flaviking]

Ok, so new updates...

1) I think I have a faulty switch that toggles between by HLT and BK. No matter which one is on, they both draw power. I even removed the hot line that trips the BK, turned it to HLT and the BK outlet was still drawing power. Which is strange though, because the BK relay doesn't trip.

2) The HLT and BK lights still aren't receiving power. Which is odd to me though, because the outlets for the elements are. And the power to the lights are using the same poles on the relay.

Could a faulty switch be to blame here? Or are my relays crap? and should I replace those as well?

One thing I notice, is all three of my SSRs are always on. Should it be that way? the SSRs always on, and then the relay switches on to allow the elements to draw power through them? Or shoudl the PID controller only turn on when I want to use that Element?

 

[RufusBrewer]

Most liekly you problem faulty wiring/operation.

The conventional relays are a way to extend the HLT/Off/BK switch. The HLT/Off/BK selector allows you to turn on one or the other of turn both Off. It keerps you from turning both on at the same time.

To test the the selector switch, dsconnect the AC lines, put your multimeter on the contacts and ensure they work as you expect. If you do not have a multimeter, invest the $20-$80 and get one. (Digital auto ranging model is a good choice)

If the selector switch is wired correctly, ypu should see and hear one set of relay contacts clicking close, then the other as you put the switch through it's motions.

The function of the SSRs is control the power level going into each heating element. Sort of like a volume control, but for AC power.

The first test you should do is put a 9 volt batter into the input side of the SSR and see if it switches the AC going into it.

 

[Flaviking]

"Bob, tell the man what he has won!!"

It was a wiring issue.. figured it out when I took the wires from the light that was working and hooked it up to the boil kettle relay. The light lit up, so I knew it was a wiring issue. In the process of replacing the terminals, I noticed when I pulled on the BK wire it was going to the HLT Relay... But it was just one of the legs.. so the other one i checked looked right...

Man that was driving me crazy... Thanks so much Rufus for lending a voice of reason.