Dry hop bag question

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SaisonMan

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Hi, all. I’ve started dry hopping with a bag, using sanitized marbles to help it sink. How far do I want the bag to sink? All the way to the bottom? Somewhere mid-fermenter? Or should I lose my marbles (🙄) and let it float on top? I’m wondering if the placement affects how much hop aroma is in the end product.
 
Let it sink to the bottom. The hop oils that get extracted will float up so saturation isn't reached at the bottom, if that's what you're thinking about. I usually just dump the hops in and let them do their thing, since I use pellet hops.
 
Let it sink to the bottom. The hop oils that get extracted will float up so saturation isn't reached at the bottom, if that's what you're thinking about. I usually just dump the hops in and let them do their thing, since I use pellet hops.
Thanks. I used to throw them in too but they started gumming up my kegging operation. Now I put them in a bag.
 
Thanks. I used to throw them in too but they started gumming up my kegging operation. Now I put them in a bag.
You know how much hops expand when wet.
Make sure the bag is roomy enough, so the beer can fully permeate it to extract the goodies.

I've been dry hopping in kegs, using a bag weighed down with marbles. I can agitate that easily.
When done, either transfer the clear beer to a serving keg. Or just let the hop dust settle out and serve from the hopped keg directly.
 
I use a paint strainer bag I first soak in sanitizer that hangs in corney halfway down. I don't put more than one marble in as it could lead to an airleak with the dental floss I use coming out the lid.
 
I'm firmly on the "throw them in without the bag and let them disintegrate" side here.
Bags are one more vector for infection, reduce your utilisation, and generally a bit of a pain.
My approach has been that, if I soak the bag in Star San before adding the hops and throwing it in the fermenter, the chance of an infection is very low. Am I wrong?
 
Floating dip tube with a Flotit 2.0 on the end and you can just toss 'em in! Haven't had any issues when transferring to keg.

There's just something funky to me about letting magnets sit in beer. Albeit, the silicone ones are probably fine.
Well, you know that when magnets get wet they stop working. Heard it on the internet, so it must be true 😉.
 
Well, you know that when magnets get wet they stop working. Heard it on the internet, so it must be true 😉.
Something about the humulin concentration affecting the direction of relative North getting disrupted and the electrical conductivity of the Earth's aura reorienting... :ghostly:
 
Something about the humulin concentration affecting the direction of relative North getting disrupted and the electrical conductivity of the Earth's aura reorienting... :ghostly:
Well, yeah. That and Coriolis effect. After all, physics teaches us that the "Coriolis Force is an inertial force that acts upon objects in motion within a frame of reference that rotates with respect to an inertial frame." Now I for one have no deep understanding of what all that 'sciencey' stuff means, but I'm pretty sure that what ever it is, it means it could really screw up some magnets if it decided to.
 
Well, yeah. That and Coriolis effect. After all, physics teaches us that the "Coriolis Force is an inertial force that acts upon objects in motion within a frame of reference that rotates with respect to an inertial frame." Now I for one have no deep understanding of what all that 'sciencey' stuff means, but I'm pretty sure that what ever it is, it means it could really screw up some magnets if it decided to.
Should this discussion be moved to the THC-infused beer thread?
 
Bringing this thread back from the dead.

For those who dry hop commando, what is your process?

Do you first cold crash to get the yeast to drop out?
What temp do you dry hop at?
Do you do a second cold crash to get dry hops to drop before transferring?
 
For all of 2024 my dry hopping has started with a "soft crash" 2 day temperature drop to 50°F (under light CO2 pressure), add the pellets commando and let it ride for two days (still under light CO2 pressure), then a hard crash to 36°F for 2 days before kegging to fermentation-gas-purged kegs. Also, fwiw, I inject each keg with a 30 ml solution of 1 tsp of Ascorbic Acid in water before filling. Really extends the shelf life of volatile neipas out to as long as 6 months...

Cheers!
 
My usual process for big dry hops:

Soft crash down to 10-12°C
Dump as much trub as a I can
Hops in whilst purging with positive CO2 pressure
Airtight sealed with 3-5 PSI
Dry hop for 2 days with one CO2 rouse at 24H
Straight to keg.

I'd hard crash down to 4°C before kegging if I had a glycol chiller.
 
For all of 2024 my dry hopping has started with a "soft crash" 2 day temperature drop to 50°F (under light CO2 pressure), add the pellets commando and let it ride for two days (still under light CO2 pressure), then a hard crash to 36°F for 2 days before kegging to fermentation-gas-purged kegs. Also, fwiw, I inject each keg with a 30 ml solution of 1 tsp of Ascorbic Acid in water before filling. Really extends the shelf life of volatile neipas out to as long as 6 months...

Cheers!
Do you keep the beer at 50F while dry hopping, or do you just get it there to drop yeast and then let it ride back up to room temp after dry hopping? I've been considering adding Ascorbic acid to my toolbox but not sure it's worth it given my kegs last only 30-45 days.
 
My usual process for big dry hops:

Soft crash down to 10-12°C
Dump as much trub as a I can
Hops in whilst purging with positive CO2 pressure
Airtight sealed with 3-5 PSI
Dry hop for 2 days with one CO2 rouse at 24H
Straight to keg.

I'd hard crash down to 4°C before kegging if I had a glycol chiller.
I am in the process in deciding between continuing to dry hop + serve in the same keg versus getting a standalone fermenter. If I go the fermenter route, I am deciding between the FermZilla tri-conical or All Rounder. I do not harvest yeast so I do not think I need the bottom port included on the tri-conical, but if it's beneficial to drop trub before dry hopping, I may need to consider it. It was my understanding its primary purpose was to harvest yeast.
 
Do you keep the beer at 50F while dry hopping
Yes. I've been following Scott Janish's work published in his book "The New IPA: Scientific Guide to Hop Aroma and Flavor". I used to do an involved multi-phase dry hopping including a round two days post-pitch, then another or even two more rounds later on. I'm getting the same intensity from just one 2-day dry hop after dropping the yeast...

Cheers!

 
I am in the process in deciding between continuing to dry hop + serve in the same keg versus getting a standalone fermenter. If I go the fermenter route, I am deciding between the FermZilla tri-conical or All Rounder. I do not harvest yeast so I do not think I need the bottom port included on the tri-conical, but if it's beneficial to drop trub before dry hopping, I may need to consider it. It was my understanding its primary purpose was to harvest yeast.
Dumping trub is mostly beneficial to limit the likelihood of restarting fermentation through hop creep. I use a Fermzilla and collection jar for this purpose though will be switching to a tri-conical body with a 90 degree tri-clamp elbow.
 
I cold-crash below 50F and then dry hop with a solid burst of CO2 from the bottom of the tank up to push out most of the O2 that got in when I opened the lid. I dry hop two days, but if life gets in the way, sometimes longer. Love Janish's book.
 
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