Done with MFLs for my corny connectors

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HutBrew

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Just had my 10# tank bleed out for the second time, due to a bad connection between the gas MFL and the nut&barb.

I’m sticking to barb connects exclusively.
Anyone else experience similar frustrations?
 
I have. But I still stubbornly like the MFLs anyway. Now I remember to check them occasionally and tighten whenever I put a keg in the kegerator.
 
Thanks for the input Yooper! I know they must work, but are not entirely fool proof... I hate admitting user error, but that’s gotta be it.
 
Just to add, always use one of them little conical flare nylon washers if it's a metal to metal contact. Most of my quick disconnects have a plastic nib end that acts as the washer to metal swivel nuts, but some early ones I had did not and I *HAD* to use the little nylon washers to keep them from leaking.

[Edit: Like these]
 
I skipped barbs and went with EVA Barrier + duotight-MFL adapters off my MFL regulator.

I was concerned about the robustness of the plastic, but so far almost 12 months in, she's been holding. Still the same original fill on the 10lb tank I started with.

The tank rarely moves, and I'm using duotight "tee" connectors in place of a manifold to feed 4 kegs. Perhaps I've been lucky, but so far so good.
 
No, it happens. It's just that convenience of being able to swap out the connections outweighs the problems I've had.

this. I have a 6 tap kegerator and I think 14 kegs now with a little more than half being pin-lock.
but with MFL's i can easily use either.
I do have a wrench and I do make sure they are snug every time i move them.
I have had more tanks drain from bad o-rings on post than loose MFP's.
 
Here's where being obsessive is a win :D
I have 26 gas QDs and 8 liquid QDs in fixed service between three fridges and a keezer, and literally have never had an issue with an MFL QD with its swivel/barb while in actual service. But, every one of those connectors was dunk tested under pressure, and any problems were resolved there and then (and there were problems - missing flare washer, cracked washer, forgot-to-tighten swivel nut, etc).

Since that point I've switched everything to PTC connectors and I don't think I have a single swivel nut in my entire cold side - and I still don't have any leaks, but then again, when I converted I dunk tested (or at least seriously sprayed down with bubble soap :)) every one of those connections...

Cheers!
 
Thanks for all the input folks! Looking back I must have forgotten to tighten the swivel nut properly, and this is how the leak likely occurred.
I’ll probably stick with all barbs for now, but I appreciate all the feedback!
 
From an engineering perspective, the more potential leak points, the more opportunity for leaks. Adding more glands and packings than necessary comes at a price.
 
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