Walshy87 said:Just out of curiosity... Why does the extract recipe call for more hops?
Its all about boil size.. full boils have better hop utilization. Extracts are usually smaller boil volume which needs slightly more hops.
Walshy87 said:Just out of curiosity... Why does the extract recipe call for more hops?
steber said:Its all about boil size.. full boils have better hop utilization. Extracts are usually smaller boil volume which needs slightly more hops.
My brews have been coming out with a weird almost apple taste to it.
homebrewhaha said:Acetaldehyde is the classic "green apple" off-flavor. Does it taste like that? If so I'd consider the health of your yeast.
Are you using liquid yeast? Are you making a starter?
What's your source and is there any opportunity for degradation during shipping or at the LHBS?
Are you brewing any big beers (high OG)?
My brews have been coming out with a weird almost apple taste to it.
Make sure your fermenters are clean. It could be an infection. Give 'em a good dose of bleach.
Two weird things that didn't happen with my 2 other brews. First - the wort was clear, but when I mixed it, it threw up all kind of sediment that settled back down in a matter of seconds. Not sure if this was because of the amount of hops I used, or maybe the break was different, but it certainly seemed different than the other ipa I brewed, which was a kit from my LHBS. The other weird thing that I didn't experience with my other brews was I tried to use a paint strainer bag to filter out the hops. I clipped the bag to the primary, and poured the cooled wort into the bag. I poured about half the wort into the bag, and the bag got so heavy that it ripped the clips off the side of the bucket. I held the bag up and it had about 5 pounds of sediment in it that just wasn't draining. I had to dump the bag into the primary, sediment and all, which I know won't really be a big issue since I plan on using a secondary anyway. But I thought it was odd that the bag didn't filter out the hops and instead clogged. Should I have poured the top-off water into the primary BEFORE I poured the wort in? Would that have diluted it, and thus allowed the paint strainer to do its job and not clog?
Did I ruin the thing?? Sorry if this is off-topic, but I figured since I brewed this beer it would be a good place to go for either 1) peace of mind, or 2) condolences.
so forgive me if this has been posted recently, but i don't exactly feel like reading 174 pages to find the answer......is the recipe the first post in the thread? I know that was posted before the final product had been sampled, but has it changed along the way?
It's been brewed by me at least 25 times, probably more.
That is impressive, Yoop! I can only imagine what you have learned with that much experience.
Cheers!
hio3791 said:I finally got around to brewing this recipe. My LHBS has Amarillo and Simcoe so I made a 10 gal batch Sat night. I brew in the garage and love brewing in the cold. My CFC knocked the temp down to 65F in no time. I split the batch between 2 buckets, 1 with US-05 and the other with Nottingham. The beer is happily fermenting at 63F.
Thanks for sharing this recipe!
Your LHBS has amarillo? I recommend going back today and buying as much as they will sell you. And then send some to me
Parkje04 said:My LHBS had amarillo too. The guy said he got about 50 ounces, and that would probably be it for the year. How long will those pellets stay good for if I throw them in the fridge? I may go back and get a few more, but I don't plan on using them for a couple months.
@Yooper:
I am curious about the differences in the AG recipe -vs- Extract. There seems to be more hops in the extract version and the SRM is darker than what BeerSmith calculates for the AG as well.
I brewed the extract recipe and it was great. Now, I want to do the AG version but I'm thinking I need to bump up the hops and adjust the grail bill for some color. Any thoughts on these things?
Your input is appreciated!
I use bmw for getting my ingredients but cannot find pacman(wyeast 1764) yeast. What should I sub for it?
I use bmw for getting my ingredients but cannot find pacman(wyeast 1764) yeast. What should I sub for it?
Nagorg said:Thanks for the lightning fast response! I do appreciate the explanations. On the hops, BeerSmith cacls ~107.5 IBU's for the extract but only ~57.4 for the AG. I guess this may be a BeerSmith thing but it's why I'm asking the questions. Since I do like big hops, I'm thinking of kicking it up a bit for grins...
I just took a gravity reading and put in the hops for dry hopping. It was at 1.023. I used US-05. It started fermenting a little low maybe around 61 then it stayed right at 63 during peak fermentation and now it is going back to 61. Could that have slowed it down that much? When I put the lid back on I gave it a slight shake to move the yeast around a little. I might need to put a heater in my fridge to warm it up a little because it is getting cold in my basement now.
That's pretty cool for S05. I am not sure where it goes dormant, but you may be getting close at 61.
Hop utilization is affected by wort gravity and extract brewers generally do partial boils hence the increase in hops to compensate for decreased utilization due to higher boil gravity. If you do extract but a full boil you'd need to use the AG recipe hop schedule. In beersmith for the extract recipe set the equipment profile to use a 3-5 gallon pot and the IBUs will fall back in line.
melche01 said:Just brewed AG recipe yesterday. Went well and got 1.067 OG. Mashed at 153 and only lost 1 degree over an hour. I just realized today though I used a full 1 oz of Amarillo whole hops continuous from 35 min to flame out. I stuck to the rest of the original hop schedule. Think it will still be okay? I'm planning on dry hopping with 1 oz Amarillo and other 1/2 oz simcoe.
zeekage said:I have a hunch it will be quite delicious. Hopping from 35 mins to the end of the boil is for flavor and aroma hops. So you didn't really add much bitterness but upped the flavor and aroma a bit. Yum!
I brewed this up for the second time about three weeks ago. Hit my numbers (OG 1.070) and pitched my pack of Notty on top dry. It took about 36 hours to really get going, but no worries-- I know how yeast can be. I let it ferment in my swamp cooler at 66 for about a week, then pulled it out and let it ride in the guest bathroom around 68. Two days ago I went to dry hop, checked the gravity and was dismayed that it read 1.020! I've never had a problem with Notty attenuating before. I know that this is near the lower end of its attenuation range so I dry hopped per recipe, closed up the fermenter, gently roused the yeast and raised the temp to 74 to see if I can't squeeze a couple more points off in the next ten days.
Anyone else have any issues with Notty lately? I sourced mine from Midwest and did not note the production date so maybe it was old. I've been using the same hydrometer for my last 20 batches so I know that it is calibrated. The gravity sample tasted fine body and flavor wise so I decided to proceed. Pretty sure it will turn out fine just wanted to share my experience.
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