Does anyone have this Altec Lansing PC sound system???

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Boerderij_Kabouter

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I have a Altec Lansing FX6021 sound system for my home computer. It looks like this:

image_na.php


http://international.alteclansing.com/brunei/index.php?file=north_product_detail&iproduct_id=fx6021

I had a capacitor burn on the control board inside the sub box and am unable to find any schematic or find any help on the spec of the capacitor.

C125 burned and I want to fix it. If you have this system, please post and let me know. It take one philips head screw driver and 3 minutes to pull off the back panel and tell me the specs of the capacitor (X.XµF 50V).

PLEASE help me out. Even if you don't know what I am talking about but have the above system, please let me know...

Thanks,
Justin
 
it could just be a decoupling cap or something, and if it is, then it wouldnt matter that much. If its a filter cap, then you might "clip" the audio, but still wont hurt anything
 
If it's in the sub, it could be an amplifier capacitor, meaning it could be a POWER SUPPLY filter cap. Especially if it says 50V.

Biggest thing is to make sure you get at east the same or higher Voltage rating.

Can you get a picture of the cap or circuit?
 
Ya, its the voltage rating that is more critical than the capacitance. Even if you put a lower voltage cap in by mistake, it will just fry and smell terrible ;). Chances are, you still would'nt wreck anything.
 
That sounds good. More than likely it's the same value. It's not like the amp is going to be very particular about the value, like a computer PSU might be.

Also, you might think about what blew the cap in the first place. Something else go bad or was it just a poorly built cap? They aren't likely to just go out on their own, but then again, there is nothing that says they can't.
 
Ya, I have rarely seen caps blow without some other real problem lurking around the corner. (Im an electronics tech with 9 yrs exp)
 
I've replaced large electrolytic caps in my own subwoofer several times (the sub in my home theater). In my case, I'm sure it was underrated for the voltage. I replaced the one cap with 2 in series, which doubles the voltage rating - you need to double the capacitance because 2 caps in series will equal half the value of one of them).

I think these electrolytics die over time from heat. Mine is right next to a regulator component that gets really hot. If you can, bend the cap away from anything with a heat sink.
 
In a lot of cases the manufacturer skimps on the voltage rating because a higher rating is ever so slightly more expensive.

if it calls for a 10V it would not hurt in the least to go with a 16V.
 

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