Here is a tease for a recent project I completed. Full write-up forthcoming...
DIY Project: Weld-less Heater Element Using Cam & Groove Couplings
DIY Project: Weld-less Heater Element Using Cam & Groove Couplings
I almost attempted trying this last fall, but ended up going a different route because of the cost and not knowing how well it would work. I also changed my plans to use a 5500w ripple element, which I doubt will fit in this method. Back when I used 2 120v heatsticks to brew I had to scrub them hard afterwards and being able to remove them to clean felt like a necessity. I ended up with Bobby's weldless enclosures which went against what I initially felt was important for cleaning. With the big ulwd's I have now it only takes a few wipes to get them clean and couldn't be happier with the cost/effectiveness/function. I look forward to your findings out of pure curiosity though!
For the first month or two I had the cables hard wired to the kettles, which was a real drag as they added a lot of bulk and I was very careful to not put strain on them when moving them around. I just recently added a powercon connector to bobby's enclosure on the bk and it is awesome. It was a huge pain to get everything to fit inside, but now that it is done it rocks. Now to do the hlt...
Sounds interesting... Link is broken though
Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew
So, something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RGVGEK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
And the receptacle is hard wired to the element box at the kettle?
Added the PDF document as an attachment.
Yes, they are rated for 240v 32amp. It is just an alternative method to doing triclamp or camlock fittings that others have been doing. The cable disconnects from the kettle leaving the element inside the kettle. Some like being able to remove the element for easier cleaning. As I've gotten away from smaller elements to now using the bigger 5500w ultra-low-watt-density (ulwd) ripple elements, I've found that they only need to be wiped off to get them clean. When I used the 120v high-watt-density (hwd) elements and even the low-watt-density (lwd), they needed a bit more vigorous scrubbing to clean them. Depending on your system size and equipment used, each method has its merits. The powercon connections are not water proof, but I would say they are water "resistant." The stars would really have to align for a boilover to be bad enough to reach the inside of the connections. In the unlikely event that this could happen (maybe if you submersed the entire running kettle in liquid?) the ground fault protection (which you should have for safety) would trip, provided you have wired everything correctly.
I have jammed a neutrik powercon terminal into my small enclosures if having the cable removable is that important to you.
This is what I did, but beware it is a tight fit! Love the final results though. Sleek and streamlined look. Looks like I bought it that way.
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