I just had my brew day disrupted by my GFCIs tripping (both on the controller and the wall outlet). After reverting to propane, I broke out a multimeter and checked some connections.
The cord connecting my controller to the heating element seems to be good. I checked between each pin and the resistance is beyond the capabilities of my (cheap @$$) multimeter to measure.
When I checked the heating element, I get 0 resistance between the one pin and the TC clamp, so this must be the ground. For the other two pins, I'm measuring less than 1M-Ohm (somewhere around maybe 700k- to 900k-Ohm) resistance, but there's obviously not the same level of isolation that I see in the cord.
Is it possible that I have a defective heating element and that it's leaking enough current to cause my GFCI to regularly trip?
This is a Spike unit, but I don't yet have a 240V outlet available, so I'm running it with an Inkbird at 120V currently. That's why I'm trying to troubleshoot this, myself, before contacting the manufacturer.
The cord connecting my controller to the heating element seems to be good. I checked between each pin and the resistance is beyond the capabilities of my (cheap @$$) multimeter to measure.
When I checked the heating element, I get 0 resistance between the one pin and the TC clamp, so this must be the ground. For the other two pins, I'm measuring less than 1M-Ohm (somewhere around maybe 700k- to 900k-Ohm) resistance, but there's obviously not the same level of isolation that I see in the cord.
Is it possible that I have a defective heating element and that it's leaking enough current to cause my GFCI to regularly trip?
This is a Spike unit, but I don't yet have a 240V outlet available, so I'm running it with an Inkbird at 120V currently. That's why I'm trying to troubleshoot this, myself, before contacting the manufacturer.