- Recipe Type
- Partial Mash
- Yeast
- US-05
- Additional Yeast or Yeast Starter
- rehydrated
- Batch Size (Gallons)
- 5
- Original Gravity
- 1.061
- Final Gravity
- 1.010
- Boiling Time (Minutes)
- 60
- IBU
- 95.4
- Color
- 7.7 SRM
- Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
- 36 @ 68F
- Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp)
- none
- Additional Fermentation
- 7 day dry hop
- Tasting Notes
- Herbal, piney, resiny with NZ fruity with some grapefruit
This recipe goes back to 6/21/13, when I was still using some carapils in the mash.
** Ingredients**
8oz- Carapils
8oz- Crystal 40L
8oz- Melanoidin ,malt (weyermann)
2lbs- 2-row (UK)
2lbs- Marris Otter (UK)
1lb- Demerara sugar (any grocery store)
3lbs- Plain light DME (Munton's)
.3oz- Warrior- 60 minutes
1.2oz- Mosaic- 20 minutes
1.2oz- Simcoe- 15 minutes
1.2ozs- Ahtanum- 15 minutes
1.2ozs- East Kent Golding- 12 minutes
** Dry Hops**
.8oz- Mosaic
.8oz- Simcoe
.8oz- Ahtanum
.8oz- East Kent Golding
** dry hop 7 days before packaging**
** Yeast- US-05 rehydrated in 400ml spring water @ 68.4F 30 minutes.
**1/2 Whirlfloc tablet @ 10 minutes
_____________________________________________________________
I mashed the 5.6lbs of grain in 2 gallons local spring water for 1 hour @ 153F. Seems to me 155F would've given a bit more malt presence. I dunk (read batch) sparge the bag of grains in 1 1/2 gallons of spring water @ 170F for 10 minutes. Stretching the nylon grain bag over the lip of the pot to allow stirring that increases efficiency. I prefer this to merely adding water to get to boil volume. This typically leads me to 3 1/2 to 4 gallons boil volume in my 5 gallon SS kettle. So, with 3 1/2 gallons boil volume, I crank the stove dial (electric stove) to "HIGH" to get it to a boil resembling blooping, boiling lava. You'll get a good hot break right before this hard boil. I let it boil like this a minute or two before turning the dial down to about "8.8". Then add the .3oz Warrior bittering hops & start the timer for 1 hour. I weigh all my hop pellets in plastic 3oz bathroom cups on my digital scale. I mark the cups for which hop is in them. Then add the Mosaic hops @ 20 minutes. Both the Simcoe & Ahtanum @ 15 minutes. The East Kent Golding @ 12 minutes. I saved the remaining .8oz of each of the flavor hops in the freezer for the 7 day dry hop. Add the 1/2 Whirlfloc tablet @ 10 minutes left in the boil.
I also put 3 gallons of spring water in the fridge a day or two before brew day to chill thoroughly for top off. I ice bath the hot wort in the kitchen sink with ice to the top of the sink, then top that off with cold tap water. I keep a floating thermometer in the wort & chill it down to about 75F. Then with the clean fermenter (spigot too) sanitized, I place my 10 1/4 inch fine mesh strainer on top of the FV & pour the chilled wort through it. This aerates the wort nicely as well as getting any gunk out. Less gunk means less trub/yeast compacted at the bottom of primary come bottling day!
I stir to mix the wort & top off briskly for a couple minutes to mix the two well & aerate a bit more. The cold spring water already has more air dissolved in it, since it hasn't been boiled. Boiling drives out dissolved air. Then, take hydrometer sample & spray the stem of the clean airlock's stem & the grommet in the lid with Starsan to sanitize & lube the airlock stem to insert into grommet more easily. I then fill to the line with a 50/50 mix of vodka or grain alcohol (180 proof) & Starsan.
Now, while you're chilling the wort, you should be rehydrating the dry yeast in the 400ml of spring water. I nuke the water in my flask in the microwave to between 68-90F. Then carefully pour the yeast into the flask, sanitize the now empty yeast packet to crimp over the top of the flask & let it sit 15 minutes. At that point, stir or swirl the mixture to mix the yeast & water together & cover to sit another 15 minutes while you're chilling the wort.
So, by the time you've topped off in the fermenter & stirred it to mix, swirl or stir the rehydrated yeast before pouring into the fermenter & sealing it up. Then do the 50/50 mix in the airlock as instructed earlier.
This particular first batch took about 36 days to finish fermenting & settle out, though your results may vary a bit on this point. At any rate, when it's down to a stable FG & settled out clear or slightly misty, it's time to dry hop. I usually do this in primary. Boil the muslin hop socks a couple minutes, then soak in a small bowl of Starsan a minute or so before filling with no more than 1oz of hop pellets per bag. Tie them off & drop in the FV, resealing it afterwards. After 7 days has gone by,It's time to prime & bottle.
I brewed it to the American IPA style (BS2) @ 2.6 volumes of Co2. @ 70F for 5 gallons @ 2.6 Vco2, that's 4.8ozs of dextrose. I boil 2C of spring water a couple minutes before adding the weighed amount of dextrose (corn sugar) & stirring till the water goes clear again. Remove from heat, cover & allow to cool a bit while you get the bottling bucket ready, sanitizing it & any tubing, bottling wand, etc right before racking the beer into the bottling bucket, pouring the priming solution into the swirling surface of the rising column of beer. I usually get about 53-12oz bottles out of a batch, on average. YRMV. Let the bottles carbonate & condition 3 weeks @ 70F or a bit more before 1 week fridge time. This allows any chill haze to form & settle like a fog. It also compacts the yeast/trub on the bottom of the bottle for a cleaner pour of clearer beer. When you taste this one, I think you'll agree the aroma & flavors are very familiar to some IPA's you've tried commercially. I think it's great!
This pick is from my old camera. The ale cleared up a bit more in later bottles. It's just dry hop oil haze anyway.
** Ingredients**
8oz- Carapils
8oz- Crystal 40L
8oz- Melanoidin ,malt (weyermann)
2lbs- 2-row (UK)
2lbs- Marris Otter (UK)
1lb- Demerara sugar (any grocery store)
3lbs- Plain light DME (Munton's)
.3oz- Warrior- 60 minutes
1.2oz- Mosaic- 20 minutes
1.2oz- Simcoe- 15 minutes
1.2ozs- Ahtanum- 15 minutes
1.2ozs- East Kent Golding- 12 minutes
** Dry Hops**
.8oz- Mosaic
.8oz- Simcoe
.8oz- Ahtanum
.8oz- East Kent Golding
** dry hop 7 days before packaging**
** Yeast- US-05 rehydrated in 400ml spring water @ 68.4F 30 minutes.
**1/2 Whirlfloc tablet @ 10 minutes
_____________________________________________________________
I mashed the 5.6lbs of grain in 2 gallons local spring water for 1 hour @ 153F. Seems to me 155F would've given a bit more malt presence. I dunk (read batch) sparge the bag of grains in 1 1/2 gallons of spring water @ 170F for 10 minutes. Stretching the nylon grain bag over the lip of the pot to allow stirring that increases efficiency. I prefer this to merely adding water to get to boil volume. This typically leads me to 3 1/2 to 4 gallons boil volume in my 5 gallon SS kettle. So, with 3 1/2 gallons boil volume, I crank the stove dial (electric stove) to "HIGH" to get it to a boil resembling blooping, boiling lava. You'll get a good hot break right before this hard boil. I let it boil like this a minute or two before turning the dial down to about "8.8". Then add the .3oz Warrior bittering hops & start the timer for 1 hour. I weigh all my hop pellets in plastic 3oz bathroom cups on my digital scale. I mark the cups for which hop is in them. Then add the Mosaic hops @ 20 minutes. Both the Simcoe & Ahtanum @ 15 minutes. The East Kent Golding @ 12 minutes. I saved the remaining .8oz of each of the flavor hops in the freezer for the 7 day dry hop. Add the 1/2 Whirlfloc tablet @ 10 minutes left in the boil.
I also put 3 gallons of spring water in the fridge a day or two before brew day to chill thoroughly for top off. I ice bath the hot wort in the kitchen sink with ice to the top of the sink, then top that off with cold tap water. I keep a floating thermometer in the wort & chill it down to about 75F. Then with the clean fermenter (spigot too) sanitized, I place my 10 1/4 inch fine mesh strainer on top of the FV & pour the chilled wort through it. This aerates the wort nicely as well as getting any gunk out. Less gunk means less trub/yeast compacted at the bottom of primary come bottling day!
I stir to mix the wort & top off briskly for a couple minutes to mix the two well & aerate a bit more. The cold spring water already has more air dissolved in it, since it hasn't been boiled. Boiling drives out dissolved air. Then, take hydrometer sample & spray the stem of the clean airlock's stem & the grommet in the lid with Starsan to sanitize & lube the airlock stem to insert into grommet more easily. I then fill to the line with a 50/50 mix of vodka or grain alcohol (180 proof) & Starsan.
Now, while you're chilling the wort, you should be rehydrating the dry yeast in the 400ml of spring water. I nuke the water in my flask in the microwave to between 68-90F. Then carefully pour the yeast into the flask, sanitize the now empty yeast packet to crimp over the top of the flask & let it sit 15 minutes. At that point, stir or swirl the mixture to mix the yeast & water together & cover to sit another 15 minutes while you're chilling the wort.
So, by the time you've topped off in the fermenter & stirred it to mix, swirl or stir the rehydrated yeast before pouring into the fermenter & sealing it up. Then do the 50/50 mix in the airlock as instructed earlier.
This particular first batch took about 36 days to finish fermenting & settle out, though your results may vary a bit on this point. At any rate, when it's down to a stable FG & settled out clear or slightly misty, it's time to dry hop. I usually do this in primary. Boil the muslin hop socks a couple minutes, then soak in a small bowl of Starsan a minute or so before filling with no more than 1oz of hop pellets per bag. Tie them off & drop in the FV, resealing it afterwards. After 7 days has gone by,It's time to prime & bottle.
I brewed it to the American IPA style (BS2) @ 2.6 volumes of Co2. @ 70F for 5 gallons @ 2.6 Vco2, that's 4.8ozs of dextrose. I boil 2C of spring water a couple minutes before adding the weighed amount of dextrose (corn sugar) & stirring till the water goes clear again. Remove from heat, cover & allow to cool a bit while you get the bottling bucket ready, sanitizing it & any tubing, bottling wand, etc right before racking the beer into the bottling bucket, pouring the priming solution into the swirling surface of the rising column of beer. I usually get about 53-12oz bottles out of a batch, on average. YRMV. Let the bottles carbonate & condition 3 weeks @ 70F or a bit more before 1 week fridge time. This allows any chill haze to form & settle like a fog. It also compacts the yeast/trub on the bottom of the bottle for a cleaner pour of clearer beer. When you taste this one, I think you'll agree the aroma & flavors are very familiar to some IPA's you've tried commercially. I think it's great!
This pick is from my old camera. The ale cleared up a bit more in later bottles. It's just dry hop oil haze anyway.
