Conical Regrets?

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crooow

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I've been thinking about getting a conical for a few years now (either a Spike or Brewtech). On the one hand, it'd be a great way for me to ferment 10 gallon batches, harvest yeast, and ferment under pressure. On the other hand, they also seem kind of like a pain ... lots of cleaning, temp control challenges, expensive, etc...

Have any of y'all experienced regret after getting a conical?
 
Getting a conical was one of the best decisions I ever made (SS Brewtech Brewmaster 10 Gallon). Yes, it is more cleaning. Yes it is more expensive. Yes, temperature control can be a challenge (read: also expensive).

But the ability to do closed pressure transfers, not have to deal with glass, not have to worry about scratched plastic, and not have to lift 5 gallons of beer to do gravity transfers more than make up for it. Especially for 10 gallon batches.

It wasn't long after I bought my conical that I sold my SS brew buckets and carboys, just because the conical was so much more convenient and produced better quality beer than the buckets. It's easier to keep out oxygen and keep tighter temperature control.

The only downside I've experienced is, I want more of them.

Edit: And I guess one other downside is, if you're not careful, dry hops can really screw up closed transfers.
 
I've had two Blichmann 7gal conicals since around 2010, and a 14gal since 2009. The 10gal got a lot of use for both beer and wine, but I sold it last year and replaced it with two Anvil Brew Buckets since I'm rarely brewing 10 gal batches these days. If you get a 10 gal conical, consider getting casters and extender legs to make moving and racking to kegs easier. They're a pita to lift/move when full (which is a bad idea anyway).

Conicals are not really a huge hassle to use, clean and maintain. If you like to tinker and enjoy taking things apart and reassembling, and enjoy the 'cool factor' of a shiny steel conical in your house, I'd say 'go for it.' It is nice to have the option of draining yeast without moving the beer, and racking to a keg w/o introducing oxygen couldn't be easier. Overall, steel is a better material for fermenting than plastic or glass, regardless of it's shape.

There are some threads regarding fermenter geometry on HBT, and you can draw your own conclusions on that topic on the homebrew scale. I honestly can't tell the difference in a handful of split batches fermented in my steel Anvil bucket and conical.
 
None regrets at all. I have the cf15. Only advice I would give is definitely get a unitank and don't forget that temp control doesn't need to be any more complicated than you want it to be. I ended up going with a stand up freezer light bulb in a paint can and a stc1000. Only cost 100 and can cold crash and heat and is already insulated. Another bonus is that the freezer is basically the same size as the unitank so it also saves on space. Cheers
 
Oh and if you get a spike cleaning it literally takes 5 mins. It's as easy as cleaning a bucket. Easier than the glass carboys I replaced with it. Cheers
 
I got a blichmann 14 gal , bought it used for 350... dont regret it. I see they have come out with a SS cooling coil for it, so just bought that... cleaning isnt that bad, comes apart pretty easily...
 
Had 2 conicals and sold them both. I now use modified Chapman Steeltanks that work much better for my applications. I can now have 3 fermenters in the space that once held one conical.
 
My regret is I didnt buy more of one of the styles when I could... I have 4 stainless conicals, a stout 12.5 , very old generic 7.3 (stout style) an american brewer 12.5 (older spike clone) and an ss 14 gallon with coil/jacket.

Be forwarded this is a bit of a rant,

The point of stainless conical fermenters are the ease of cleaning and ability to secondary in them with less oxidation to the beer as well as keg or bottle easily from them and some have the benefit of holding carbonation pressure.

I like the american brewer 12.5 with the clasp style lid (no longer available) the best followed by the stout. The The SS brewtech one is manufactured well as far as fit and finish (same for the blichmann as its made in the states) but its a pain in the ass to clean and not really sanitary which I find ridiculous with stainless conical and same goes with a blichmann (Is the american labor to weld ports really that expensive where you have to skip it and still charge more than any other home brewing conical?).

It makes no sense why companies that charge more would cheap out and go with non sanitary weldless fittings that the owner has to constantly remove and clean (other than the larger profits with less manufacturing costs). I mean they couldnt even spring to include a sanitary valve even though they are already saving a lot by not welding all the sanitary ports on the tank and by using the thinner gauge of stainless and skipping the polishing which makes cleaning much easier on a polished tank. The ss brewtech one while still being more sanitary than the blichmann has welded sanitary tc ports but a weldless thermowell, Why? Thats the kind of stuff that makes it LESS productive and takes away from the benefits of a stainless fermenter.

The fact that the SS and blichmann conicals are still so popular seems to prove marketing and advertising does more for sales than the design of the product IMO. They are inferior to many of their cheaper counterparts ive seen and worked with like the stout conicals which are built of heavier polished stainless with real sanitary fitting making them more professional and easier to use in function over threaded 3 piece ball valves with teflon taped barb fittings and weldless fittings. I think home brewers should demand better for what they are paying and buy based on the product and not the brand.

I do not own and have never used any spike products so I cant really comment one way or the other on them other than they appear to have a better design from what I've seen.

I would never buy another home brewing conical unless it was truly a real sanitary conical fermenter with welded tri clamp fittings and sanitary butterfly valves. the ability to dump the trub and dead yeast and keg from the side port was worth it to me.

keeping them at temp is not as easy due to size so they are not for everyone but a chiller and heat strips took care of that for me.
 
I've had two Blichmann 7gal conicals since around 2010, and a 14gal since 2009. The 10gal got a lot of use for both beer and wine, but I sold it last year and replaced it with two Anvil Brew Buckets since I'm rarely brewing 10 gal batches these days. If you get a 10 gal conical, consider getting casters and extender legs to make moving and racking to kegs easier. They're a pita to lift/move when full (which is a bad idea anyway).

Conicals are not really a huge hassle to use, clean and maintain. If you like to tinker and enjoy taking things apart and reassembling, and enjoy the 'cool factor' of a shiny steel conical in your house, I'd say 'go for it.' It is nice to have the option of draining yeast without moving the beer, and racking to a keg w/o introducing oxygen couldn't be easier. Overall, steel is a better material for fermenting than plastic or glass, regardless of it's shape.

There are some threads regarding fermenter geometry on HBT, and you can draw your own conclusions on that topic on the homebrew scale. I honestly can't tell the difference in a handful of split batches fermented in my steel Anvil bucket and conical.
Again To be fair, the blichmann conical has the most economical cost saving manufacturing design due to country of origin (ironically despite price being one of the highest) Which requires more work to disassemble and clean than any other conical choice which makes it the worst thing for a fair comparison to an anvil (china blichmann) bucket. You likely would have had a totally different experience with a sanitary conical with a couple $30 butterfly valves where your looking at less than 5 minutes to clean and have ready for the next brew session.
 
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I regret that I cannot afford the expense required. I would need at least 4, a place to put them and some way to control the temperature of each one - $$$$$$$ I quite often have a couple of beers and a couple of wines fermenting at the same time. I have had as many as 7 fermenters filled at one time. With Better Bottles and buckets that is about $210 dollars. If SS conicals, that would be around $2000. And they wouldn't fit in my fermentation chambers. So I would have the expense of cooling on top of that.
 
Regrets? Not really. There's a learning curve as with most things, but once I figured out how to do things like CIP, the benefits were apparent.

My biggest interest in my conical was to be able to do pressure transfers and do at least partial carbonation in the fermenter. Obviously trub can be dumped and I can harvest yeast, though I haven't done that.

There are tradeoffs; the SS Brewtech unitank can hold pressure up to 30 psi; the Spike (which I own) only goes up to 15, and the PRV I have with it will only go to about 13 psi. But the tradeoff back is that the SSBt is harder to clean, whereas the Spike top comes right off giving excellent access to everything.

I found that the best approach to CIP is to use my Riptide pump to recirculate, then when I'm satisfied with the job I just disconnect the hose from the CIP ball and put it in my sink and drain the fermenter that way. Refill partially with water, recirculate, then again drain in sink. I may do that multiple times to give a good rinse, then do it one more time with some Star-San.

And because the lid comes off, I can wheel the conical over to the sink and spray out most of the gunk before setting up CIP.

If there's any place I wish were different, it's the inside ports for the racking port and sampling port. Because they're on the cone part of the conical, krausen and yeast collect in those areas and CIP will not remove it. It has to be sprayed out (see below) or the ports removed and cleaned from the outside. I remove and clean them anyway, but there isn't any way this can be effectively CIP'd without either removing the lid and spraying out those ports, or removing the port valves. This would be the case on any conical where the ports are connected to the cone, not just the Spike.

One other note: I have the heating/chilling option. I do 5-gallon batches but bought the CF10 because I could forsee going to 10-gallon batches in the future. It's harder to chill and crash the 5-gallon batch than the 10-gallon (I've tested), at least in my context. There are at least 11 protuberances sticking out of the fermenter (handles, gas manifold, top, ports, legs, valves, temp port, etc.) and they act as reverse radiators--which means it's harder to keep it chilled in a warm ambient environment. Have to wrap or insulate the fermenter in addition to the neoprene jacket that comes with the temp-control kit.

sprayoutconical.jpg
 
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Thanks, y'all. It sounds like most people are pretty happy.

Had 2 conicals and sold them both. I now use modified Chapman Steeltanks that work much better for my applications. I can now have 3 fermenters in the space that once held one conical.

Any particular reason you switched to the Chapman Steeltanks? Was it the space issue?
 
My regret is I didnt buy more of one of the styles when I could... I have 4 stainless conicals, a stout 12.5 , very old generic 7.3 (stout style) an american brewer 12.5 (older spike clone) and an ss 14 gallon with coil/jacket.

Be forwarded this is a bit of a rant,

The point of stainless conical fermenters are the ease of cleaning and ability to secondary in them with less oxidation to the beer as well as keg or bottle easily from them and some have the benefit of holding carbonation pressure.

I like the american brewer 12.5 with the clasp style lid (no longer available) the best followed by the stout. The The SS brewtech one is manufactured well as far as fit and finish (same for the blichmann as its made in the states) but its a pain in the ass to clean and not really sanitary which I find ridiculous with stainless conical and same goes with a blichmann (Is the american labor to weld ports really that expensive where you have to skip it and still charge more than any other home brewing conical?).

It makes no sense why companies that charge more would cheap out and go with non sanitary weldless fittings that the owner has to constantly remove and clean (other than the larger profits with less manufacturing costs). I mean they couldnt even spring to include a sanitary valve even though they are already saving a lot by not welding all the sanitary ports on the tank and by using the thinner gauge of stainless and skipping the polishing which makes cleaning much easier on a polished tank. The ss brewtech one while still being more sanitary than the blichmann has welded sanitary tc ports but a weldless thermowell, Why? Thats the kind of stuff that makes it LESS productive and takes away from the benefits of a stainless fermenter.

The fact that the SS and blichmann conicals are still so popular seems to prove marketing and advertising does more for sales than the design of the product IMO. They are inferior to many of their cheaper counterparts ive seen and worked with like the stout conicals which are built of heavier polished stainless with real sanitary fitting making them more professional and easier to use in function over threaded 3 piece ball valves with teflon taped barb fittings and weldless fittings. I think home brewers should demand better for what they are paying and buy based on the product and not the brand.

I do not own and have never used any spike products so I cant really comment one way or the other on them other than they appear to have a better design from what I've seen.

I would never buy another home brewing conical unless it was truly a real sanitary conical fermenter with welded tri clamp fittings and sanitary butterfly valves. the ability to dump the trub and dead yeast and keg from the side port was worth it to me.

keeping them at temp is not as easy due to size so they are not for everyone but a chiller and heat strips took care of that for me.
I got the same feeling about ss as you did. I felt there product was somewhat overly cheap. Weldless fittings/ coil/ and the sample port and thermometer look like toys. For less money than the BME you can buy the same sized spike and coil and it's a unitank. Seems a no brainer to myself
 
Regrets? Not really. There's a learning curve as with most things, but once I figured out how to do things like CIP, the benefits were apparent.

My biggest interest in my conical was to be able to do pressure transfers and do at least partial carbonation in the fermenter. Obviously trub can be dumped and I can harvest yeast, though I haven't done that.

There are tradeoffs; the SS Brewtech unitank can hold pressure up to 30 psi; the Spike (which I own) only goes up to 15, and the PRV I have with it will only go to about 13 psi. But the tradeoff back is that the SSBt is harder to clean, whereas the Spike top comes right off giving excellent access to everything.

I found that the best approach to CIP is to use my Riptide pump to recirculate, then when I'm satisfied with the job I just disconnect the hose from the CIP ball and put it in my sink and drain the fermenter that way. Refill partially with water, recirculate, then again drain in sink. I may do that multiple times to give a good rinse, then do it one more time with some Star-San.

And because the lid comes off, I can wheel the conical over to the sink and spray out most of the gunk before setting up CIP.

If there's any place I wish were different, it's the inside ports for the racking port and sampling port. Because they're on the cone part of the conical, krausen and yeast collect in those areas and CIP will not remove it. It has to be sprayed out (see below) or the ports removed and cleaned from the outside. I remove and clean them anyway, but there isn't any way this can be effectively CIP'd without either removing the lid and spraying out those ports, or removing the port valves. This would be the case on any conical where the ports are connected to the cone, not just the Spike.

One other note: I have the heating/chilling option. I do 5-gallon batches but bought the CF10 because I could forsee going to 10-gallon batches in the future. It's harder to chill and crash the 5-gallon batch than the 10-gallon (I've tested), at least in my context. There are at least 11 protuberances sticking out of the fermenter (handles, gas manifold, top, ports, legs, valves, temp port, etc.) and they act as reverse radiators--which means it's harder to keep it chilled in a warm ambient environment. Have to wrap or insulate the fermenter in addition to the neoprene jacket that comes with the temp-control kit.

View attachment 584651
Only mentioning this because it seems to come up alot. From what I've read the prv on the SS unitank is set at 18-20 psi. I think the 30psi is the burst pressure or whatever so not really a difference if you think real world uses. Also my spike prv definitely holds 15 psi. Yours may be defective. Cheers
 
My only regret is spending all my money on rent, food, bills, and other boring crap that won't improve my beer the way a few stainless conicals would. FML.
I'm peeved that while I could be brewing, I'm at work trying to afford all that crap above that doesn't have anything to do with brewing. It's definitely unfair.
 
Any particular reason you switched to the Chapman Steeltanks? Was it the space issue?
Space was one issue. The second was I could get multiple steel tanks for the cost of one conical. I got mine when they were under $100. I have them modified with tri-clamp fittings and have a corny gas in port on it as well. They seal up to about 6PSI for me so I can partially carbonate (spund) prior to kegging. Just work better for my application but for others it may not be the same.
 
I have 4 brew buckets and 1 ss brewing conical I bought used for $125. The conical has the standard 3 piece valves and the weldless thermowell.

I would NEVER buy that conical at full price. Disassembling those valves after every use is frustrating to the point that I never use the conical unless by chance my brew buckets are all full. Even if you spend the extra $60-75 for 2 butterfly valves the thing still has a weld less themowell that requires disassembly.

If you are buying a conical to get any value out of it in my opinion it has to be fully welded, hold pressure, and have butterfly valves.

If you want one get a good one otherwise buy 2 brew buckets.
 
Moving to stainless was a health and safety thing for me. Glass is nicely oxygen impermeable but the thought of perforating myself with the shards isn't appealing. I have an original 12 gal Blichmann conical and its fine. I've got it set up for pressurized transfer by adding a gas-in bulkhead fitting to the lid. Its easy to clean if you're not taking everything apart, but you do need to disassemble everything on occassion just to be sure.

If I was to do it over again, I'd go with the stainless bucket fermenters like Brady (friarsmith) did. Much cheaper and still safe. I still don't drain yeast out of my conical's cone since I can just reach in a grab a slug of slurry from the top (just like you would do with one of those buckets).
 
Thanks, y'all. It sounds like most people are pretty happy.

I bought an Ss Uni (3 now) and had like a zillion TC clamps, fittings and valves and...."stuff" all laid out in front of me. I was trying to get it all assembled and the TC clamps were hard to fumble with and get this stuff all lined up together. I sat there with my hands in the air and thought to myself....what the heck was I thinking. Darn.

Several months later I was cleaning, taking the fittings off, sanitizing and putting the TC's back in place with one hand while sipping a pint with the other. Seems second nature now and a little finesse goes a long way.

My regret (yes there is one), is that I fumbled around with other FV's before I latched on to the Uni tank.
 
I currently am having regrets about mine. I have a Stout and the unit itself is immaculate. It just doesn't work well for what i wanted it to do.

Absolute f'ing nightmare to clean
-Lots of parts that resist CIP, are bulky, time consuming to disassemble, etc.
-I brew indoors and its even too large for my 30x30" commercial sink and spray wand (mostly a height issue).
-Has a coil in the lid, which blocks spray ball action, effectively killing automated CIP.
-Pressure build up during CIP has no way to release. Likewise for vaccum.
-Taking samples is nearly impossible. The samples in the racking arm are warmer than in the main batch and don't ferment at the same rate.

I'd entertain the idea of getting another one, but i'd have to:
1. Get a jacketed conical instead of the coil non-sense.
2. Get additional port in lid for fixed spray ball
3. Get additional port in lid for pressure/vac release
4. Get additional port in side for sampling.
 
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I currently am having regrets about mine. I have a Stout and the unit itself is immaculate. It just doesn't work well for what i wanted it to do.

Absolute f'ing nightmare to clean
-Lots of parts that resist CIP, are bulky, time consuming to disassemble, etc.
-I brew indoors and its even too large for my 30x30" commercial sink and spray wand (mostly a height issue).
-Has a coil in the lid, which blocks spray ball action, effectively killing automated CIP.
-Pressure build up during CIP has no way to release. Likewise for vaccum.
-Taking samples is nearly impossible. The samples in the racking arm are warmer than in the main batch and don't ferment at the same rate.

I'd entertain the idea of getting another one, but i'd have to:
1. Get a jacketed conical instead of the coil non-sense.
2. Get additional port in lid for fixed spray ball
3. Get additional port in lid for pressure/vac release
4. Get additional port in side for sampling.
the coolzone jackets fit the stout 12" wide conicals perfectly... the coils are a pain in the ass no matter what conical has them. I have one in my SS conical and only gets used if all the others with jackets on the ouside are full
I find the stout easier to wipe clean and rinse in place than any of my other conicals.. of course the valves have to be removed to be cleaned but otherwise its easy for me anyway.. Its wiped clean in less time than it would take to hook up the CIP hardware. I just pour some warm water in and wipe the kausen ring off with a sponge and drain and rinse with more water followed by some starsan and done...I dont even bother removing the coolant lines and moving the conical.

also something I forgot to mention is a taller conical has less blowoff issues than the shorter ones... I have one thats short and wide like the spike and its exactly the same size as the tall stout... I rarely ever had blowoff reach the hose on the stout but its made a mess on my shorter conicals many times thanks to shorter headspace..
 
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I have 4 brew buckets and 1 ss brewing conical I bought used for $125. The conical has the standard 3 piece valves and the weldless thermowell.

I would NEVER buy that conical at full price. Disassembling those valves after every use is frustrating to the point that I never use the conical unless by chance my brew buckets are all full. Even if you spend the extra $60-75 for 2 butterfly valves the thing still has a weld less themowell that requires disassembly.

If you are buying a conical to get any value out of it in my opinion it has to be fully welded, hold pressure, and have butterfly valves.

If you want one get a good one otherwise buy 2 brew buckets.
Well said I agree
 
I should also mention the conical has completely killed my desire to brew anymore. Not worth the trouble.
 
Wow, That sucks to hear. Such different practices experiences with the same piece of hardware.. Id love to see what you do differently with yours that makes using and cleaning it so tedious... I agree the coil sucks but its not THAT bad to manually wipe off. again the jacket is like $70 from coolzone and will eliminate at least that headache for you. cleaning the valves is my peeve but im too cheap to spend the $60 on 2 butterfly valves like I have on the 3 bbl conicals at the brewpub.

You would really hate the SS brewtech or blichmann conicals then... all that repurposed non sanitary hardware to remove and clean and retape..
 
Wow, That sucks to hear. Such different practices experiences with the same piece of hardware.. Id love to see what you do differently with yours that makes using and cleaning it so tedious... I agree the coil sucks but its not THAT bad to manually wipe off. again the jacket is like $70 from coolzone and will eliminate at least that headache for you. cleaning the valves is my peeve but im too cheap to spend the $60 on 2 butterfly valves like I have on the 3 bbl conicals at the brewpub.

You would really hate the SS brewtech or blichmann conicals then... all that repurposed non sanitary hardware to remove and clean and retape..

There’s no gap between the coils. Only way I’ve found to clean it out is blast it with the spray nozzle, which pretty much sends crap flying to the ceilings and all over the walls. Even a hot PBW soak doesn’t do it. Takes both.

The crevices are all tight I don’t trust anything less than a heat sanitize cycle, which is difficult to do with the venting issue mentioned already.

I do have the sanitary bufferfly valves. They clean up nicely in a CIP.
 
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I should also mention the conical has completely killed my desire to brew anymore. Not worth the trouble.
I can totally see that happening. Honesly I'm sure everyone is tired of hearing me talk about the stand up freezer I'm using with mine. I'm not anti glycol. When I ordered my cf15 I ordered the coil and planned to repurpose my hydroponics chiller to use with it hoping it would get low enough to crash with and possibly building a diy chiller down the road. It seemed some people reported getting down 45ish but others couldn't even get that low with the aquarium chiller . When the conical arrived I realized that to go from carboys in a chest freezer with perfect cooling and heating capabilities to a conical that could only maintain ferm temps was somewhat a step backwards. I had really only upgraded for the purpose of doing large batches into one vessel rather than splitting into 3 carboys. After I started planning out the AC chiller diy build I started thinking about it abit more and honestly regretted the purchase. I felt it was over complicating things in the big picture compared to my old way. Ac unit, 2 pumps,2 controllers, coil, insulation jacket, another 3 items plugged in. Cleaning the coil and i imagine there's some maintenance required . My brew area is in my basement and floor space is limited. At the same time a member of my brew club posted a stand up freezer for 60$ and the rest is history. Needles to say I'm so happy I ended up with the freezer. Now that I don't need to connect anything else to the conical it's easier to use / clean than my carboys were. Just like a bucket in a freezer. Again nothing against glycol if it helps your brewday. Just a reminder that if it's not any more helpful than a fridge maybe think about it again. Cheers
 
I like the glycol because I don’t have to make ice blocks any more. I just chill as much as tap water will allow, rack it all the conical, finish chilling, dump trub, pitch yeast, and go. The glycol will chill in an hour what took a chest freezer at least 8 hours to do.

All my issues are with the conical itself.
 
I like the glycol because I don’t have to make ice blocks any more. I just chill as much as tap water will allow, rack it all the conical, finish chilling, dump trub, pitch yeast, and go. The glycol will chill in an hour what took a chest freezer at least 8 hours to do.

All my issues are with the conical itself.
Definitely the glycol in your specific situation seems a great solution and worth the extra equipment. I was just agreeing with you that using a conical **can** be more a chore depending on your setup and in my case I'm glad I pulled the plug on the glycol as it doesn't help my process in anyway. Just makes it alot more complicated. Cheers
 
I've done plastic buckets, carboys, a brew bucket, and am currently on my 3rd batch in my Ss unitank. With each step up, it was a little more cleaning, but I won't lie, I'm really enjoying the unitank.

It's a lot more cleaning than a bucket- the extra ports add a lot of manual cleaning. Maybe I'll get tired of it eventually, but for now, I've got the free time and it's a bit of a cathartic activity (like mowing the lawn). My beer tastes the same as before, but as an engineer, I think I like the equipment side of the hobby just as much as the brewing. Only regret was I didn't upgrade sooner.
 
I just take all the t-clamp accessories off and soak them overnight. Then I place the now fully open conical in a 5 gallon bucket and with the lid off just use a sponge and rinse with my hose. I literally spend about 5 mins cleaning mine but I don't use the cooling coil. If using the cip ball it would be abit more hassle as you need to hook it all up to your brew pump and and all that plus still open it up to clean the ports and coil. Cheers
 
Great thread. Honest opinions and product reviews that will influence any future purchases I might make.
Steel seems to be an improvement over glass but the entry price has to be attractive. Replacing my four glass carboys with one steel Brew Bucket near $100 might be the a good alternative to a conical.
Steel drain valve and rotating racking arm - sweet.
 
@mongoose33 could you speak more to the spike conical and what it would take me to perform temp control on it. Currently I ferment in buckets in a chest freezer and have no idea what it will take to hold temps in a conical. I don’t have room for another upright freezer or refrigerator and I have no desire to recirculate ice water. I don’t want the hassle of freezing water bottles and changing them out to hold temps. What does it take to get set up with glycol? How clean of a setup is it? Is it something that must be mounted in a permanent location, or can it be stored away when not in use?
 
@mongoose33 could you speak more to the spike conical and what it would take me to perform temp control on it. Currently I ferment in buckets in a chest freezer and have no idea what it will take to hold temps in a conical. I don’t have room for another upright freezer or refrigerator and I have no desire to recirculate ice water. I don’t want the hassle of freezing water bottles and changing them out to hold temps. What does it take to get set up with glycol? How clean of a setup is it? Is it something that must be mounted in a permanent location, or can it be stored away when not in use?

I bought a Spike CF10, which will do 5-gallon batches as well.

The Spike temp control system involves a stainless coil system that goes into the wort and is fed by icewater or glycol. The heat is supplied by a heat mat similar to a fermwrap or reptile mat, except it's cut to fit the lower conical part so it will warm half-batches as well.

It's not cheap. With the heater it's $375, but it's made to work w/ the conical.

************

If you aren't going to use an upright refrigerator or freezer, and you don't want to recirculate ice water, about the only remaining option is glycol.

I just bought the Penguin Glycol Chiller, but before I did, I tried very hard to get a freezer-based glycol reservoir to work. It was sufficient to hold ferm temps and I could get things chilled down to the lower 40s, but that was about it. I tried a number of different ways to get it to crash all the way to 32--that's the temp I want for crashing--but I just couldn't get it there.

If you don't expect to crash lower than 40, I think you could do this in a freezer. I'll attach a couple pics below showing how I did it. There are others here who have converted window air conditioners to a glycol chiller, apparently with good effect. And one guy turned a cube freezer on its side, bent the compressor unit so it would remain upright, sealed the thing up, and apparently that works as well. So there are ways to get decent glycol chilling without breaking the bank, which the Penguin will tend to do. But they're DIY not turnkey solutions.

**********

So for starters, how cold do you want it to get? Second, what size? With the CF10 it's harder to chill a 5-gallon batch than a 10-gallon batch, oddly enough. Partly this is because there are all these appendages sticking out from the fermenter: three legs, two handles, a sampling port, a temperature well, a yeast dump/sight glass, the top where the coil inserts, and the CO2 manifold. These all act as reverse radiators, sucking heat into the fermenter. I got around that to some degree by wrapping the fermenter in a moving blanket, and there are other insulating things i could have done. The temp control kit comes with a neoprene sleeve, which is nice, but it's not sufficient in my experience to truly insulate the whole thing unless you're in a cool environment (say 70 degrees or less).

But even then, much of the heat load the chiller has to deal with is dependent on ambient temperatures. If you're in a place that's 80-90 degrees, my guess is almost no chiller can overcome and crash low unless you're working on insulating the fermenter. If it's your basement, quite possibly.

If crashing low is not an important goal for you then you probably can do this with the Spike kit and some system that will chill glycol for you. Others will only take their beer to 40 or so, then keg, and if you wanted to crash lower, crash the keg in a keezer or refrigerator or freezer. I want 32 degrees because I'm fermenting under pressure toward the end which partially carbonates the beer, and the colder the temp, the more of that CO2 the beer can absorb.

You have identified an important element of these conicals: if you can't control fermentation temperature, it'll be a very expensive piece of bling producing so-so beer.

I feel like this is a bit rambling, didn't intend it to be that way. Hopefully it gives you some food for thought. But the first step is figuring out how large, and how cold.

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I have two refrigerators as ferm chambers; I've always been struck by the simple elegance of the setup. It works, no futzing around, and that's that. If I could have found a way to roll my fermenter into an upright freezer or refrigerator, I likely would have. There are those who set them up inside such a chamber, but they can't be rolled out, and i want to roll my fermenter over to my sink for easy cleaning. Having it in a fridge or freezer obviates that.

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Here was my attempt; I already had the refrigerator/freezer unit, so the cost was the parts inside: glycol, tub, and some heat sink and copper tubing.

The tubing ran through the top of the freezer and out to the fermenter. I controlled the freezer using an Inkbird whose sensor that was also in the glycol reservoir. The pump is in that reservoir.

I did the copper tubing and heat sink in an attempt to improve the efficiency of the freezer chilling. They helped, but in the end, not enough.

freezercoilheatsink.jpg
conical6.jpg
conicalblanket.jpg
 
Thanks for the detailed reply, mongoose. I’m looking at the cf10, as well. I primarily do 5 gallon batches, but I just bought a 20 gallon spike kettle, so I see 10 gallon bathches in the near future. I also like to cold crash down to 32°, so it looks like the glycol chiller is going to be the only way to go.

If I had the room for another upright freezer, I would definitely do that, as it’s an easy and efficient way to control temps. But I just don’t have the room, unless I put it outside under the carport, but I don’t see the wife approving of that. I would probably ferment inside - 68° during winter and 74° during summer, so I think the glycol chiller would handle that.

This has been my only hang about pulling the trigger on one of these. They seem to be a little more of a hassle to regulate temps and I’m not convinced that the added expenses will make that much difference in the quality of my beer using my current system.
 
Thanks for the detailed reply, mongoose. I’m looking at the cf10, as well. I primarily do 5 gallon batches, but I just bought a 20 gallon spike kettle, so I see 10 gallon bathches in the near future. I also like to cold crash down to 32°, so it looks like the glycol chiller is going to be the only way to go.

If I had the room for another upright freezer, I would definitely do that, as it’s an easy and efficient way to control temps. But I just don’t have the room, unless I put it outside under the carport, but I don’t see the wife approving of that. I would probably ferment inside - 68° during winter and 74° during summer, so I think the glycol chiller would handle that.

This has been my only hang about pulling the trigger on one of these. They seem to be a little more of a hassle to regulate temps and I’m not convinced that the added expenses will make that much difference in the quality of my beer using my current system.
You may have issues cold crashing with the coil in the cf10 with 5 gallon batches. Spike says it can be done but I did read some people having issues with it. Are you sure the sq footage of a conical and glycol are less than that of a stand up freezer. I use one with the cf15 and it's footprint is only a few inches more than the conical itself. If I was using glycol it would take up double the space plus it's overly complicated to cool 5-10 gallons. Cheers
 
I have the brewers Hardware 15g jacketed and I really like it. It has all the capabilities I will ever need. It is a little more cleaning disconnecting and reconnecting all the parts but not a deal breaker IMO. With any decision you make there is always pros and cons, with that being said "happy hunting"...
 
I want the cf5 . Only thing is I am not willing g to get a glycol chiller . I barley have enough room for my fast ferment and carboys . I thought of setting my small ice chest next to it and pumping ice water through it but was told it wouldn't be as effective as glycol. So I am holding off for right now as my fermenters work fine . I use a portable ac unit in the Brew/Music room to keep temp 68-70
 
I want the cf5 . Only thing is I am not willing g to get a glycol chiller . I barley have enough room for my fast ferment and carboys . I thought of setting my small ice chest next to it and pumping ice water through it but was told it wouldn't be as effective as glycol. So I am holding off for right now as my fermenters work fine . I use a portable ac unit in the Brew/Music room to keep temp 68-70

It won't be as effective as glycol, but that doesn't mean it won't work. It'll effectively control fermentation temp for you. Will it allow you to crash to, say, 38 degrees? Probably no, but that depends on how effectively you keep the solution at 32 degrees.
 
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