Gelatin isn't an option for me, I have a vegan kid (I know, I know)
The only down side is cleaning the fermentation vessel. I use Sanke kegs (they have a very narrow bung), so it's difficult. Looks like from the link you are going to use Corny kegs? Those are a lot easier to clean, but difficult to seal since pressure is needed to make a good seal. Typically the poor initial seal lets all the gas escape before a good seal is made.
BTW, I use a pressure washer with a 90 deg. tip to clean my vessels. Works great if you have access to a pressure washer.
You can also do the keg lube thing. But instead of doing 5 lbs, you pump it up to 10-15. Once a seal is established you can de-pressurize the corney and it should retain a good seal at the lower psi later. I have some real crappy kegs I got on purpose that were labeled bad when I bought them. I knew I could either fix them or turn them into something. I have one that's nearly perfect but the lid lip is deformed and this is the only way I can get it to seal reliably.
Thanks for the tips. Another question:
I only have a couple of kegs so will it be ok to transfer to the keg as a secondary post high krausen and serve from the same keg? Or will there be too much yeast deposit?
Sent from hell
using Home Brew
Sometimes I filter and that's how I do it. When the primary is done I let it sit and crash for a couple days then I filter to the second keg to carb up and clear out further. Then I serve from the same keg.
Sorry I didn't explain my intention too clearly. Due to my lack of kegs, I want to primary in a normal plastic fv and then transfer to the serving keg at the back end of fermentation to carbonate. I'm wondering though if this will leave too much yeast deposit in the serving keg?
Sent from hell
using Home Brew
As long as you don't intend to be serving out the back of a moving truck. The yeast will settle at the bottom and you'll be good to go.
I was wondering how I'd dry hop using this technique. Well, here's an idea: Jack's Abby Brewing: Spunding and Slurming Updates
Anyone tried this way?
Sent from hell
using Home Brew
Is there risk of autolysis affecting flavour?
Sent from hell
using Home Brew
+1. After fermentation begins the refractometer never agrees with the hydrometer reading. It's close but not reliable. I built an air lock from a water filter housing and cutoff part of a sanke dip tube. Being able to watch the bubbling allows me to gauge where the fermentation is at so I usually only take one sample before cold crashing to make sure I'm at or below the final gravity I'm expecting.
Crane, where did you get that filter housing, and how did you attach the spear to the center? And also, you have MFL fittings on it, what size is the pipe thread for them?
Crane, where did you get that filter housing, and how did you attach the spear to the center? And also, you have MFL fittings on it, what size is the pipe thread for them?
The filter_housing can be bought on amazon.
The MFL_fittings are from McMaster.
Yes I paid more for the flare fittings than I did for the filter housing. Still comes out cheaper than the filter Midwest supplies is selling (not to mention the fact that midwest screwed up the last 3 orders I placed with them so I am boycotting them from now on). I have a number of hoses for transfers, fermenting, etc. so having everything be a flare fitting is convenient for reuse of hoses.
The spear is cut down from a keg that I cut the top off for a boil kettle. I cut the spear down with a pipe cutter, which turned out to help make a good seal. The spear slides over the center part of the top that holds the filters in place. The uncut end was snug and fit well, but wasn't air tight. The first time I used it no bubbles were pushed through the water. The other end was curved in from the pipe cutter, so I used some needle nose pliers to widen it a bit and then I was able to barely fit it over the end of the center part of the top. A couple of persuasive taps with a hammer and it was bottomed out and was air tight. It works great as a pressure air lock. It saved my spunding valve on one fermentation as I had 6 gallons in a 7.5 gallon sanke and forgot to put fermcap in. A few inches of blow off made it into the airlock that time. I generally use fermcap and that does a good job of keeping the krausen from leaving the keg. I'll post a picture of it in action when I get a chance.
I have also removed the spear to use the filter housing for filtering beer and the spear is still air tight after reinstalling it. I'm sure if I remove and replace it continuously, it will eventually fail to be air tight. When that time comes I will just pay another $16 for a new filter housing.
Why do you need the spear for pressure fermenting?
If you don't mind using Fermcap you can fill almost all the way to the top and still not have any blowoff. (At least in my experience with moderate brews)
Tom
I wasn't advocating that anyone buy from Midwest. Just noting that the filter housing model needed was no longer available for purchase off the shelf in any of the places that used to carry them. Till you posted this link to Amazon I haven't seen anywhere else to buy them other than homebrew supplies.The filter_housing can be bought on amazon.
The MFL_fittings are from McMaster.
Yes I paid more for the flare fittings than I did for the filter housing. Still comes out cheaper than the filter Midwest supplies is selling (not to mention the fact that midwest screwed up the last 3 orders I placed with them so I am boycotting them from now on). I have a number of hoses for transfers, fermenting, etc. so having everything be a flare fitting is convenient for reuse of hoses.
The spear is cut down from a keg that I cut the top off for a boil kettle. I cut the spear down with a pipe cutter, which turned out to help make a good seal. The spear slides over the center part of the top that holds the filters in place. The uncut end was snug and fit well, but wasn't air tight. The first time I used it no bubbles were pushed through the water. The other end was curved in from the pipe cutter, so I used some needle nose pliers to widen it a bit and then I was able to barely fit it over the end of the center part of the top. A couple of persuasive taps with a hammer and it was bottomed out and was air tight. It works great as a pressure air lock. It saved my spunding valve on one fermentation as I had 6 gallons in a 7.5 gallon sanke and forgot to put fermcap in. A few inches of blow off made it into the airlock that time. I generally use fermcap and that does a good job of keeping the krausen from leaving the keg. I'll post a picture of it in action when I get a chance.
I have also removed the spear to use the filter housing for filtering beer and the spear is still air tight after reinstalling it. I'm sure if I remove and replace it continuously, it will eventually fail to be air tight. When that time comes I will just pay another $16 for a new filter housing.
So just wanted to say a big thank you to Mad Scientist and WortMonger and everyone else on this thread! I have my first ferment underway (which is actually my first batch in over 5 years) in two 5 gal corny's using the spunding valve from the original post.
I am following MS's pressure schedule from a bunch of posts back with a few changes due to technical difficulties getting the kegs to seal up front (i unfortunately didn't see the posts about keg lube and seal until Day2):
Day 1 (0 - 24 hours) - 0 PSI @ 72 F
Day 2 (24 -26 hours) 4 PSI
Day 2 (26 -27 hours) 5 PSI
(turned knob 3 times)
Day 2 (27 - 42 hours) 9 PSI
(turned down til 7 PSI)
Day 2 (42+) 7 PSI
Future plan
Day 3 - 7 PSI
Day 4 - 7 PSI
Day 5 - 7 PSI
Day 6 - 7 PSI
Check Gravity, if over 60% finished begin raising the pressure)
Day 7 - 12 PSI
Day 7 - 16 PSI
Day 8 - 20 PSI
Check Gravity, if over 80% finished, remove the spunding valve to being carb)
Day 10 - check pressure to release to around 20/25 PSI
check Gravity and once over 90% start crash chill
two main differences (that I planned at least) is that I am fermenting at the top temp limit for my yeast (72/73 F). From what I have read on this thread it seems the higher pressure is supposed to forgive for a higher temp (though I couldn't find an example that tried higher than normal temps on an ale) and since I didn't have my fermenting chamber up and running yet though this would be a good chance to test that.
The other difference is my finish cold crash, I think others have gotten away with only doing a few days (I have seen some talking about grain to glass in 14 days so only a day or so of cold crash). What is everyone's experience here?
If I get within 80% completion of primary by Day 8 how long should leave the fermenter "capped" before cold crash? should I wait until around 90% done before cold crash?
And then once I am cold crashing how long before counter pressure transfer to the serving keg? Is 1-2 days enough to allow for clearing or should I go longer?
Once again thanks and will keep everyone posted!
For your schedule you may be waiting too long to ramp up for final carbonation, but it depends on how big and how healthy your army of yeast is.