Chinook IPA. Critique please.

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tinytowers

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Brewing tomorrow (11/11).

Looking for a crisp, clean and hoppy all Chinook IPA.

Recipe:

Boil Size: 13.44 gal
Post Boil Volume: 11.44 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 10.00 gal
Bottling Volume: 9.25 gal
Estimated OG: 1.060 SG
Estimated Color: 5.3 SRM
Estimated IBU: 103.6 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 71.5 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------

20 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US 78.4 %
2 lbs Vienna Malt 7.8 %
2 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L 7.8 %
1 lbs 8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine 5.9 %

1.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - First Wort 60.0 min
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 20.0 min
2.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min
2.00 oz Chinook [14.75 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 min
5.00 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 14.0 Days

2.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion (152 degrees), Medium Body, Batch Sparge (170 degrees)
Total Grain Weight: 25 lbs 8.0 oz
 
I've never used admiral hops, so I can't comment on that.

I'd probably reduce the 60 minute hops quite a bit. I love Chinook, but it can be perceived as a "harsh bitterness" and 2 ounces (plus the FWH) is overkill. I'd cut that down, but otherwise I like it.

I'd probably reduce or eliminate the carapils and use more base grain, but it's ok if you don't want to do that.
 
The admiral addition was a mistake, that was meant to read Chinook and I've changed it. Yeah I wasnt too sure on the early additions, so maybe I will notch that down a bit.

Carapils addition is for mouth feel, which I like. Wouldnt it be slightly thin without?
 
The admiral addition was a mistake, that was meant to read Chinook and I've changed it. Yeah I wasnt too sure on the early additions, so maybe I will notch that down a bit.

Carapils addition is for mouth feel, which I like. Wouldnt it be slightly thin without?

No, it won't be thin with 2 pounds of crystal malt and a mash temp of 152! Carapils is most often used to promote good head retention, but you'd get that as well with the crystal malt. You've got nearly 8% crystal and that is alot as it is in an IPA (I normally use 5% if using) and then 6% carapils. That means nearly 14% of crystal malt, which is fine since carapils doesn't provide flavor. But I like some malt backbone and don't like only 85% base malt.
 
So 2lbs (8%) crystal should give me plenty of dextrin? I've never brewed without carapils, even with large crystal additions, so I really have no experience not using it. I'll take your word for it. Thanks.
 
+1 on Yooper's comments. If you're looking for crisp and dry, then consider halving your crystal and carapils weights. I'd also swap your FWH and 60 minute additions, giving you 2 oz. FWH and 1 oz at 60 minute because Chinook does tend to leave a harsher bitterness.

I usually mash lower (149*) and use a 90 minute boil for most IPAs because I like them dry (~1.008-1.010). If you're stuck on adding the crystal and carapils (and targeting a specific OG) then maybe drop some base grain and add a pound or two of sugar (big fan of agave syrup lately) to dry it up a bit if that's what you're after.

Happy brewing!
 
Carapils addition is for mouth feel, which I like.

If you like a thicker texture to your beer - try adding a little wheat malt to a future brew. 5% won't impart much flavor, but it will be noticeable when you drink it. White Wheat is neutral flavor and Red Wheat can add a slight amount of sweetness (and color).
 
+1 on Yooper's comments. If you're looking for crisp and dry, then consider halving your crystal and carapils weights. I'd also swap your FWH and 60 minute additions, giving you 2 oz. FWH and 1 oz at 60 minute because Chinook does tend to leave a harsher bitterness.

I usually mash lower (149*) and use a 90 minute boil for most IPAs because I like them dry (~1.008-1.010). If you're stuck on adding the crystal and carapils (and targeting a specific OG) then maybe drop some base grain and add a pound or two of sugar (big fan of agave syrup lately) to dry it up a bit if that's what you're after.

Happy brewing!

Cram thanks for the response. One question: What does boil length have to do with drying out the end product?
 
Boil length doesn't impact dryness as far as I know (sloppy writing earlier) it just concentrates the wort more, it might lead to greater utilization of your bittering hops, and some folks think it helps keep DMS away.

Most of the IPAs (and especially IIPAs) that I brew now don't use crystal/cara malts because I like to shave off those last few gravity points whenever possible. Jammin's point about a little wheat is worth considering, too, if head retention/mouth feel is what your after. Vienna, Munich, Maris Otter, are some of my favortie choices to add some different malt nuance and a touch of color but I tend to use about 20-30% of the grain bill there instead of the ~10% that you have in your recipe. And I'm a big believer in 5-10% sugar, a nice starter and 02 to get it going, low ferment temps, extra time in primary, and a heavy hand of dry hops.

More than half the fun comes from the tweaking process, though, and everyone has different preferences on what makes a good IPA. So do what you feel's best. A lot of my recipes are dictated as much by what I have on hand, so if you're all set already, I wouldn't make an extra trip to the LBHS.
 

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