Cheap(ish) Electric Setup Insight Request

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aakonyha76

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Hi Everyone,
I was hoping to get some expert advice on my planned 10gal electric setup

I'm considering a 4500watt element, running on 220v. The main issue I have is my brewhouse (aka garage :) ) does not have 220V. I found an interesting EV conversion system that will take 2 separate 20 amp circuits 110 and convert it to 1 20 amp 220V circuit. My garage circuits are not on a GFI's and are powered by 2 separate 20 amp breakers that aren't in phase. The cost to run 220V to my garage would probably run in the $300 price range (for material, not including labor), which is why I'm entertaining this device.

I'm also proposing using a simple knob controller from Stilldragon.

Finally, my heating element is a kit with a weldless connection to the brewpot. I'll cut the supplied power cable and install the Stilldragon controller in that cable.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Note I will have an electrician buddy help me put this together.

Here's the part list with estimated costs:

Item - Cost - Website
DIY Controller - $43 - http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html
Element package - $95 - http://www.ebrewsupply.com/shop/ebrew-kits/elements/element-package.html
120->240 Conversion - $240 - http://www.quick220.com/-P-103.html

Thanks!

Andy
 
Jesus, $240. Why not run with 2x 120 elements instead? You could build a whole panel for less than that one part.
 
What batch size are you hoping to run? I run 2x 1500w 120v elements on my kettle and it brings my initial wort voume of 6.75gal up to boil no problem.
 
What batch size are you hoping to run? I run 2x 1500w 120v elements on my kettle and it brings my initial wort voume of 6.75gal up to boil no problem.

This is a good point. You could do this much cheaper by using 2 element plugged in. I'd consider that route. You could use smaller wire which means you could put your own element kit together and you wouldn't need that conversion. I could put 2 element kits together to run on 120V for $100 by myself :D
 
I'd recommend to use just two 120V heating elements as well. One can be run through your kit regulator and use just a regular On/Off switch for a second element.

But if you still want to go to 240V route:
- Check iy both of your 120V outlets connected not only to a separate beakers but also to two separate phases. Take a multimeter and measure voltage between Live wire at first outlet and another Live wire from a second outlet. If you are lucky - it should be 240V. If it zero - forget about 240 V route otherwise than residing your garage.

And if ycan have 240v between Lives you can easily save around $200 not buying that "240v conversion kit" .
 
Thank you for the insight everyone! I am planning on doing ten gallon batches. I was planning on getting a 4500 watt element as one day I want to build a house and have a 220 plug to use. The conversion kit would get me through the next few years. I estimate I'm using about $80 in propane every year, so the conversion kit would pay for itself in a little over 3 years. Thanks for the info brumateur. I will check the phases. I think I'm ok in my initial thought bc one breaker is right on top of the other in the panel. Could you please explain a little more about not needing the conversion kit if I do have 240v btwn lines?
Thank you!

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app
 
I have a 1500 and a 2000 watt 110 volt elements with a 15 gallon pot. I get rolling boils on 10 gallon batches with no problem. Please note my 2000 is not low watt density and I wish I had two of them It is a lot easier to clean.


Hello my name is Drizzt and I have a brewing addiction.
 
Thanks again fellas. Drizzt, how long does it take you to get from 60F to 150F (8 gal) and from 150F-boil for 13gal with your current setup?
 
How far is your garage from your main breaker panel? It's not that difficult to run a 50 amp circuit on 10/3 to your brewery, connect through a spa disconnect (or similar GFI circuit), and away you go. Having 240 is great for heating, and you can also pull of one leg for all of your 110 legs. Lots of great designs all over HBT.

Good luck!
P
 
Thanks PLOVE, my house/garage config is screwy. Straight line distance is 30'; however, there's concrete. If I was to open cut the ground, I'm looking at 150'. I looked at trying to pull in existing conduit, but they only ran 1 1/4" and it's full. Looking at the dollars and cents, I think I'm going with the dual 2000W elements. Thank you everyone for all your insight!
 
Thanks again fellas. Drizzt, how long does it take you to get from 60F to 150F (8 gal) and from 150F-boil for 13gal with your current setup?


I never timed it my but I keep pace with my neighbor or very slightly behind and he has a Blichman burner


Hello my name is Drizzt and I have a brewing addiction.
 
I wanted to report back on my brew session using the tan $20 pump linked. It worked beautifully. Ran it at 100% during the RIMS mash and was on point with temps. Ramp up to mash up was pretty slow and likely would have taken about 30 minutes had I let it get all the way up. It was about 20 degrees in my garage, so I'm sure that wasn't helping.

I also used it to run the boiled wort through the plate chiller and back into the kettle and then to the fermenting bucket. Like everyone has commented, it won't whirlpool in the least. But it served my purposes perfectly as this wasn't really the plan. It was able to push through the plate chiller just fine. I used a paint strainer bag as a hop spider to reduce hop trub also. Chilling times were slower than with the chugger, but that's to be expected granted it pumps much slower.

The best part about this pump is that is very simple to prime. Doesn't require any bleed valves like the chugger/pump does. This is a perfect pump for 5-10 gallon batches. Any larger, and I'd go bigger.
 
Fantastic. What pump did you use? I think I'm going to get two of the cheap pumps. I've been a bit apprehensive because it seems like some people are saying you need the coated impellers to be food grade, but most don't have it and still mention food grade. There's just not much clear information about them. I tried emailing one of the eBay vendors and Ms. Huang replied back saying she didn't understand what I was asking, lol.
 
Fantastic. What pump did you use? I think I'm going to get two of the cheap pumps. I've been a bit apprehensive because it seems like some people are saying you need the coated impellers to be food grade, but most don't have it and still mention food grade. There's just not much clear information about them. I tried emailing one of the eBay vendors and Ms. Huang replied back saying she didn't understand what I was asking, lol.

I realized that I put this post in the wrong thread....but here's the link for the one I've got. Sorry OP.
 
I realized that I put this post in the wrong thread....but here's the link for the one I've got. Sorry OP.

one of the same two pumps I use....
fyi it will whirlpool better if theres NO 90 bends in the line after the pump.... even a large 1/2" 90 elbow weakens the force of the flow a lot....
I use one of these and a topsflo/us solar pump and the difference it just about unnoticeable...

7 brews so far with mine on pwm speed controllers and a pc powersupply.

both the 24v and weaker 12v tan pumps like linked here ARE FDA approved with coated magnets.... I noticed no ill effects from using the non coated magnet topsflo which was also stated to be food grade by the seller on amazon.
 
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