Cheap cordless drill destroying mill?

[Darwin18]

Hey guys,

I have a two monster mill that I've been using with a cheap cordless drill. This drill has been nothing but a pita to use with my mill but I'm cheap. I've noticed some wear on the shaft that drives the rollers but thought that was normal wear and tear. Today was particularly frustrating as my drill continued to slip off the shaft and fought me the whole way.

When I was done milling I noticed it had really worn on the shaft. This doesn't look normal and I'm concerned. Had this happened to anyone else? I think I need to replace the shaft but not sure how, and if I do I want to avoid this again.




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[zach976]

Looks like your drill chuck is not tight enough and is slipping on the shaft. Not sure what kind of chuck is on your drill but a keyed one would allow you to tighten it up more.


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[LLBeanJ]

That shaft needs some flats milled on it so that the chuck will have a better surface to grip. Looks like they used to be there before the end was turned down (from 1/2" to 3/8", I assume).

 

[number40fan]

Do you have a thin bladed cut off wheel or a file?

I'd cut/file some groves on the shaft to give the chuck of the drill to grip onto. Maybe dab the teeth on the chuck with some lipstick and tighten it over the shaft so you can see where it will grip. Cut/file your groves there.

 

[flars]

Have you thought about filing some flats on the shaft, one for each jaw of the chuck?

 

[WildTim]

I'd buy a cheap corded drill. The cheaper the better as a keyed chuck can be cranked down even on the round shaft, though filing some flats wouldn't hurt, and keyed chucks are getting hard to find. Then you would have a dedicated drill just for your mill.

 

[mikescooling]

This did happen to me, the mill is hardened steel so the drill chuck has a hard time getting a bite. Also the most electric drills will run way to fast to mill, so they want to faster and the mill is holding it back AKA breaking free of the mill. Vs running a drill on low speed at a MAX of 300rpms. You may need a slower drill with a keyed chuck or a dedicated drill, that once locked on, it stays on. I don't think you need to replace the shaft yet. how did I fix it? I motorised my mill.

 

[smcinco]

There is no shaft to replace. The shaft is milled as part of the roller. The whole roller would need need to be replaced if you can't get a drill on it.

 

[Darwin18]

Hey guys,

Thank you for the replies! I contacted Monster Mills and the draft shaft and roller are one piece. They're offering it as a replacement part which I'll order after I confirm with them that replacing it is a task that an average person can do.

Do you guys have any recommendations for a replacement drill? I unfortunately do not have the space or mechanical ability to motorize the mill yet.

 

[Minbari]

I dont see that it needs to be replaced. take a cutting/grinding disc and sand flats in the shaft at 120° spacing. The chuck will have something to grab.

 

[LLBeanJ]

I dont see that it needs to be replaced. take a cutting/grinding disc and sand flats in the shaft at 120° spacing. The chuck will have something to grab.

+1 ^^^^^

Once the shaft has some flats on it, your current drill should work fine. If you're wanting to replace your drill anyway, any 18v cordless should work. I have a Monster MM2 and my Ryobi 18v cordless drill w/keyless chuck handles it easily with no issues.

 

[barnaclebob]

Hey guys,

Thank you for the replies! I contacted Monster Mills and the draft shaft and roller are one piece. They're offering it as a replacement part which I'll order after I confirm with them that replacing it is a task that an average person can do.

Do you guys have any recommendations for a replacement drill? I unfortunately do not have the space or mechanical ability to motorize the mill yet.

Insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. You're likely to get the problem again if you just replace the part. Fix the part and you'll never have a problem again. It would be better to spend your money on a dremel if you don't have one yet.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Actually, if he replaced the drive roller with the standard item that has a 3/8" shaft, he wouldn't have the issue. His problem is due to the fact that it appears from the photos that his mill has the 1/2" shaft upgrade that was later reduced to 3/8" but no flats were put back on it. The standard 3/8" shaft comes with flats to provide positive contact with the drill chuck.

 

[63belair]

Do yourself a favor and get a harbor freight 1/2" high torque low speed corded drill. It uses a key for the chuck and it is easy to keep at a low speed for milling. With one of their 20% coupons it runs $40

 

[ButcherBoy]

Do yourself a favor and get a harbor freight 1/2" high torque low speed corded drill. It uses a key for the chuck and it is easy to keep at a low speed for milling. With one of their 20% coupons it runs $40

+1 high torque + low speed = good crush + happy brewer

 

[vlucchetti]

+1 high torque + low speed = good crush + happy brewer

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

 

[Darwin18]

That's actually the new drill that I've purchased!

 

[63belair]

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

That's the one! I use one with my mm2 2.0 and love it. Sorry for not posting a link originally, I was on my wife's iPad and it's a PITA to go between the HBT app and chrome.

Happy milling!

 

[peterj]

Why don't you just buy a bolt that will screw into the end of the shaft, then use a socket bit on your drill that will fit the bolt?

 

[The_Glue]

Get a drill with torque control (those numbers around the chuck) so when the mill stucks stuff wont get destroyed.

 

[b-boy]

I recommend a spider coupling. Buy one for the shaft, another for the drill. I think they save wear and tear on the drill and the mill.

https://www.google.com/images?q=spi..._group&ei=FdQiVNqhIMKjyASxmoCQCg&ved=0CCAQsAQ

 

[ncbrewer]

Why don't you just buy a bolt that will screw into the end of the shaft, then use a socket bit on your drill that will fit the bolt?

I was wondering about this, too. Does anybody do this? Are the threads strong enough? Any problem with constantly driving the threads in and over tightening?

 

[The_Glue]

I was wondering about this, too. Does anybody do this? Are the threads strong enough? Any problem with constantly driving the threads in and over tightening?

Slot and phillips and maybe pozidriv bits are probably too weak for this stuff, use hex or torx

 

[mikescooling]

They sell keyed chucks, with the 1/4" hex quick connect fittings, so you could crank that on the shaft and have something new to lock into.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M9H86I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[peterj]

Slot and phillips and maybe pozidriv bits are probably too weak for this stuff, use hex or torx

I wouldn't use a male type drill bit at all. It's way easier with a female type drill bit (like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPXHUM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) and a bolt (like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Plated-Hex-Bolt-800976/204633167?N=5yc1vZc2c0)

I was wondering about this, too. Does anybody do this? Are the threads strong enough? Any problem with constantly driving the threads in and over tightening?

I did it last weekend with my corona style mill and it worked perfectly. That was the first time I used my mill though so I don't know how it works over time. And I haven't tried to take the bolt out either, but I also don't plan on needing to take it out.

 

[ncbrewer]

I was wondering about this, too. Does anybody do this? Are the threads strong enough? Any problem with constantly driving the threads in and over tightening?

Thanks for the ideas on this.