Cheap compact wort pump

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thats in interesting design, but a bit too expensive for me. I think for almost the same price a chugger could be found.. However do you think they would ship to the states? Let us know
 
I just received my ebay pump (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Power...712?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccf8d6058). I ordered it when it was $32, and it feels solid i.e. heavy. I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but after looking at the threads they are clearly not NPT (as predicted).

It only goes about one and half turns into the ball valve, and while I knew this ahead of time, now that I have it in my hands, I am less than thrilled when it comes to trusting those two threads to circulate hot wort.

Can anyone attest to the non-tapered threads actually maintaining a solid hold?

Again, I would like to acknowledge that these "issues" were known prior to ordering thanks to everyone researching on this thread.
 
I have the solarproject.co.uk pump with non-tapered 1/2" BSP threads and can attest that 1/2" NPT fittings go on just fine and don't leak provided you use enough PTFE tape. Proper 1/2" BSP fittings that seal on a washer are probably preferable though if you are unscrewing them a lot. I have 1/2" BSP copper tap connectors from the UK, not sure what's available here but John Guest do beverage fittings in 1/2" BSP.
 
FYI Krame those pumps are now 86 usd.....Its not even NPT ...WTF. For those prices better to buy a chugger, which defeats the purpose of this thead.

I just hate greedy people. I will never buy a pumb from her. She is in China. Better to buy something here.
 
For those with a pump with BSP threads you will be ok. The only difference between them and NPT is 5 degrees on the threads. They are both 14 threads per inch. There are BSP to NPT adapters available or you could just put a couple extra rounds of tape.
 
Ok, so maybe a ridiculous question here, but I have a control panel that has 2 120v ac plugs and switches built in for pumps (presumably march or chugger). Would I be able to essentially wire one of these to an extension cord and then to my locking plug for use with the panel? or is that something I this way out of the realm of these pumps?

Thanks guys!
 
whitehause said:
I think this would work. A thread file would work as well I think.
Click to expand...

We are only talking 5 degrees so I think both a die or file would do the trick

Krame that adapter you posted, would that make the pumps "plug and play" using the female adapter that comes with it?
 
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but is this one self priming?

troutcatcher413 said:
I just ordered this one off eBay from hk. http://bit.ly/12TugAR


Specs claim food grade and 105*c



Brand new and high quality.
This is brand new water pump P-38E, food-grade, high quality and reliable.
Suitable for: Aquarium, solar-panel circulate system, fountain, electronic refrigerator, water heater etc.
Rated voltage: 12V DC.
Rated current: 0.8A.
Food-grade: Yes .
Capacity: 6.5L/Min (109 GPH).
Pump head: 2M.
Noise: <=60dBA/10cm.
Working temperature: -35C ~ +105C.
Service life: 26000 hours up.
Motor: DC brushless motor.
Pump: Centrifugal pump.
Size:9.2cm x 4.5cm x 6.3cm - 3.62inch x 1.77inch x 2.48inch.
Package Included:

1 x Centrifugal Water Pump
NO Retail Box. Packed Safely in Bubble Bag.
Click to expand...
 
NinjaJoe said:
Sorry if this has already been addressed, but is this one self priming?
Click to expand...

It did not say in the auction and I have not received it yet but I will post when it comes in and I try it out
 
I am going to show my green here, but I have never used a pump, so please bare with...

What is self-priming? I have seem it thrown around a lot in the pump discussions, but I never really picked up on what it meant.
 
movet22 said:
I am going to show my green here, but I have never used a pump, so please bare with...

What is self-priming? I have seem it thrown around a lot in the pump discussions, but I never really picked up on what it meant.
Click to expand...

Just means it would draw water from a vessel to the pump head then pump to the other vessel on its own.
Most of these vane style pumps need the liquid "started" to the pump head for them(usually by gravity), then they will continue to pump from there.
 
whitehause said:
Just means it would draw water from a vessel to the pump head then pump to the other vessel on its own.
Most of these vane style pumps need the liquid "started" to the pump head for them(usually by gravity), then they will continue to pump from there.
Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks! :ban:
 
So I finally pulled the trigger on the tan chinese pump! I also got the "plug and play" adapter so I will try it as soon as it arrives.
 
Okay all please help. Need pumps of some sort. Threw my back out and want to brew ASAP, here is my setup. Not Grav feed by the by hence the need for the pumps.

mysetup.jpg
 
Are you guys putting ball valves on the input or output side of these little pumps? I tested mine (tan chinese) by screwing it onto the ball valve on my kettle (valve on input side of pump, got 3 full turns!) and when I restricted it by closing the ball 1/2+ the pump sounded like it was struggling more. I don't want to burn out the motor.
 
I've been watching and reading this thread and just wanted to put this out there. If you guys are using AC pumps, to max pump life it should be operating at amp draw on the nameplate. So, a valve on the discharge side of the pump can be throttled back to adjust proper amp draw. If you are drawing higher amps at wide open, you may have too much restriction, like too many 90 elbows or too small diameter plumbing. This will also happen with insufficient voltage. Every AC pump should be "tuned" to your setup for longevity. I am also in the market for a pump, just thought I would share what info I know about pumps.
 
Also, if someone is going to run 2 or more pumps, the plumbing should all be split and manifold in equal lengths of plumbing and be looped together.
 
two_hearted said:
I just got the "plug and play" power supply and it works great with the tan Chinese pump.
Click to expand...
I plan to purchase the "tan pump" in the hopes of using it to pump into a plate chiller. I am confused what you need to use as a power supply for the pump. Can you tell me where you purchased your "plug and play" power source?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just placed my order for the tan one.
The only reservation I have is the sturdiness of the plastic. Does anyone that has this have any reservation attaching it in line on your ball valve as I see most of them are? I am using it for Re-circulation BIAB and am hoping it will take the weight of the wort filled tubing...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270951067871
 
It is probably best to clamp the valve (or a nipple on the valve output) to the stand rather than the pump itself. The thread can easily support the weight of the pump.
 
Actually, I'm trying to make my build 1 pot portable, so no permanent stand. I think I'm going to end up not mounting direct on the valve, but instead mount inside a crate or bucket to protect the pump... I just don't see a way around it.

I was trying to think of a way to mount it right on the pot, but I can't see that working out either.
 

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