can i split a smackpack?

[jgerard]

So I brew 2.25 gallon batches via brew in a bag (BIAB) and ferment in my mr beer fermenters. When I get premade kits for 5 gallons I just split the grains or extract and hops into 2.

My last order included a wyeast smack pack, my question is can I split the contents of the smack pack into two by putting half in a sanitized glass with plastic wrap over the top? Or is there another easy way to store half?

 

[makomachine]

Yes... How big a beer are you making and with what yeast? I'd personally do a starter off of it and split that across both.

 

[PurpleJeepXJ]

Yes but you will have to step up both starters for twice as long.

 

[brewmonk]

pitch it, THEN split.

 

[jgerard]

I've never actually made a starter before, usually I use whitelabs or dry yeast though, but when I use either I just use half of the contents.
Is the wyeast that different or will it work the same?

 

[erikpete18]

Generally the smack packs don't have quite enough yeast to ferment a 5gal batch properly, which is why some of the above are suggesting making a starter. That would also mean that straight half of the wyeast pack wouldn't be enough to ferment 2.5gal either. In theory you could make a starter from half the pack and try to save the other half, but I'd be worried about trying to keep the second half sterile while it was sitting in my fridge. Whitelabs is easier to close up, and dry is cheap enough to use a whole pack on each batch.

If I were you, and knowing that a pack of Wyeast isn't enough to ferment a 5 gal batch (same goes for any liquid yeast, not just wyeast), I'd just pitch the whole pack into your 2.5 gal batch. You might be a little over-pitching, but I generally prefer to lean that way rather than under. If you're trying to save some cash on future brews, look up yeast washing. Basically you recover yeast from a batch after fermentation and using sterile techniques can save plenty for future brews without having to buy a new pack.

 

[jgerard]

Generally the smack packs don't have quite enough yeast to ferment a 5gal batch properly, which is why some of the above are suggesting making a starter. That would also mean that straight half of the wyeast pack wouldn't be enough to ferment 2.5gal either. In theory you could make a starter from half the pack and try to save the other half, but I'd be worried about trying to keep the second half sterile while it was sitting in my fridge. Whitelabs is easier to close up, and dry is cheap enough to use a whole pack on each batch.

If I were you, and knowing that a pack of Wyeast isn't enough to ferment a 5 gal batch (same goes for any liquid yeast, not just wyeast), I'd just pitch the whole pack into your 2.5 gal batch. You might be a little over-pitching, but I generally prefer to lean that way rather than under. If you're trying to save some cash on future brews, look up yeast washing. Basically you recover yeast from a batch after fermentation and using sterile techniques can save plenty for future brews without having to buy a new pack.

I think I will do this, thanks! Next time I will double check I'm ordering whitelabs... must be the w that threw me off.

 

[jgerard]

Just smacked my pack! While getting my brew stuff ready I realized I have some safale 05 sitting around. I am going to brew one with wyeast and one w safale.

I plan on brewing up all the ingredients in 3 gallons of water, splitting them into 2 fermentors and topping them both off with water. Its an extract kit so I'm not worried about the amount of water as far as grain efficiency/ the boil. (There's no reason to be right?)

The kit is Northern Brewer's "T can & bearcats wheaten beatdown". I read a lot of good reviews about it. Wish me luck!

 

[jgerard]

I came downstairs an hour and a half after smacking the pack and it was ready to explode!!! So I poked it with a knife and started brewing.

Since it got so inflated so fast I just figured id try and see if I could simply split the wyeast. I pitched the yeast around 130 this afternoon, and now it is 950 my time.

BOTH fermentors are rolling fermenting! I don't think starters are necessary with modern yeasts, I've never done it. Maybe I just order from fresh brewstores stores.

 

[smagee]

Necessary? Depending on the size of the beer, perhaps not. Highly advisable? Absolutely. No one here is likely to argue that you *can't* ferment without a starter, just that your results will almost invariably be better if you do.

 

[Germelli1]

There is a difference between "What works" and "What makes better beer"

 

[BrewKnurd]

There is a difference between "What works" and "What makes better beer"

And this is the moral of the story as far as many of the things on this forum go.... there are things that will work, and there are things that will lead you to the best beer possible. I personally opt for the latter as much as I can.

 

[jgerard]

Hey, the trub is to the airlock, two fingers of it after 12 hours now, couldn't ask for much more. If you ask me!

 

[jgerard]

Not to say I don't trust what I ve been told... I think I'm going to order a few extra packets of safale to keep around for the time I'm wrong.

 

[smagee]

Again, we're not saying you can't get a vigorous fermentation off of an underpitched batch. I've had batches that I deliberately underpitched end up requiring a blowoff tube for the first week because the yeast went crazy on it. However, stressing the yeast like that, particularly in a large batch (or one that doesn't utilize proper temperature control) can produce off flavors, not to mention it yields a yeast cake that is not suited to washing. Considering how simple it is to make a starter, I simply see no reason that one would willingly underpitch simply because "it still ferments!"

Long story short, you're certainly welcome to continue doing things the way you're accustomed to, and if you're happy with the results, fantastic! There are plenty of people posting on the boards that make starters with plain table sugar, which is also considered bad practice. You can do things sub-optimally and still produce fantastic beer. All that said, if you plan to ask for advice for these things, just do so knowing that you'll hear a lot of suggestions for how to improve your process, as you've seen in this thread. So long as you're still enjoying it (and the results), then you're free to take or leave the advice as you see fit .

 

[Germelli1]

Hey, the trub is to the airlock, two fingers of it after 12 hours now, couldn't ask for much more. If you ask me!

Well, you could ask for less ester and diactyl production on top of just plain fermentation!

Not to say I don't trust what I ve been told... I think I'm going to order a few extra packets of safale to keep around for the time I'm wrong.

The time that you are wrong won't be proven by beer not fermenting at all...it will be when yeast perform in a way that is out of character by producing compounds that are typically only desired in specific styles (belgian beers, hefe's etc.)

It is the same as not controlling fermentation tempertatures...It is not like it won't produce beer, it is just that it may produce a beer that is different from what you are aiming for.

I am not trying to force you to make starters, I just would like for you to understand why starters are beneficial before writing them off!

 

[Germelli1]

With that said, most dry yeast packets DO have enough yeast for proper pitching rates (depending on viability of the yeast in the packet...aka age, storage conditions, etc). So with US-05, US-04, Nottingham, etc. you are most likely pitching the proper amount for standard gravity beers!

 

[jgerard]

Actually this is very helpful because I didn't understand that it would stress the yeast. I have only been brewing for a bit over a year and haven't done enough reading on it I suppose. Next time I brew I will be sure to make a starter now that I understand why. I am looking forward to see how my beer will taste even better! =D Thanks for explaining why its done!

 

[MachineShopBrewing]

So I poked it with a knife and started brewing.

I would not have done that. Don't open the yeast until you are ready to pitch and only then open it just as long as it takes to dump it in. You want to maintain sanitary conditions.

 

[smagee]

Actually this is very helpful because I didn't understand that it would stress the yeast. I have only been brewing for a bit over a year and haven't done enough reading on it I suppose. Next time I brew I will be sure to make a starter now that I understand why. I am looking forward to see how my beer will taste even better! =D Thanks for explaining why its done!

That is precisely why this forum exists; always feel free to ask for more details regarding why something is "standard"; god knows that's how I learn more often than not . I've been brewing for several years now, and there's *always* more to learn!

 

[jgerard]

I would not have done that. Don't open the yeast until you are ready to pitch and only then open it just as long as it takes to dump it in. You want to maintain sanitary conditions.

Can't smackpacks explode?