Bulk Aging if <5 gallons?

[zachary80]

I was wondering what the consensus of bulk aging when you still maintain the same exposure to air. For example, we just transferred our Yeti clone from a 6.5 gallon bucket to a 5 gallon better bottle, and it is low enough in secondary that the shape of the bottle doesn't really help at all (same surface area as if still in the bucket). Since the surface area is the same, is it worth the risk of transferring just to get it off the yeast? Is the permeability of a BB over a bucket significant enough at a few months to make a difference?

Thanks

 

[Golddiggie]

Was there any actual fermentation going on post racking? If so, then the yeast created CO2 that's covering the wort, protecting it. You can use a pocket charger to blanket the brew with more CO2 if you're concerned.

IF you're concerned about air permeability of the BB, get a keg to age it in. Top it off with some CO2 and let it age for as long as you wish. I primary in kegs, and don't do secondaries. I'll transfer to age on something that it makes sense to, or to get it off of a flavor element added into primary before adding another element. Otherwise, leave it in primary for the duration.

HDPE plastics should all have the same permeability level... Stainless beats them all hands down. Get a corny keg, purge the air from it (replacing it with CO2) and you're golden. You can use the pocket chargers to purge, just get a ball lock keg that has a relief valve in the lid that you can pull (not a pin-lock type)... You can use the pocket charger to seat the main O-ring as well as purge the air from the keg. When it's done aging, you have the added benefit of being able to carbonate on gas, then bottle if you wish. OR, just put it on tap. :rockin:

 

[wolfman_48442]

I'd say if it's under a month, plastic is fine. Over that, get 'er in glass or steel, as mentioned above.

 

[zachary80]

Was there any actual fermentation going on post racking? If so, then the yeast created CO2 that's covering the wort, protecting it. You can use a pocket charger to blanket the brew with more CO2 if you're concerned....

Not actually a secondary, no noticeable fermentation, I guess technically a "brite tank". Just wanted to give the Yeti some more time to bulk age and free up the primary for another batch

 

[Golddiggie]

Then top it off with some CO2 and let it age some more. I would advise picking up more primaries before doing this again. IMO, leaving it in primary would have been better than moving it. I have a batch in bottles now that went 7 weeks in primary before going to bottle/keg. Tasted very nice on bottling day and really looking forward to tasting it once carbonated and chilled. The kegged portion should be ready to to go glass this weekend.

Since I ferment, and age, in SS I have zero worries about air permeability... Since I don't rack to age, unless there's a damned great reason, and I have (now) CO2 tanks/regulators on hand, I don't even worry there. I have five aging kegs (four 1/6 bbl sanke and one 5 gallon corny) to use.

IMO, longer primaries do a better job of getting a brew to clear up than racking to a 'brite/bright tank'... Plus it gives the yeast more time to cleanup after itself. To me, that makes the longer primary more than worth doing.

Are you still bottling, or are you using kegs too?

 

[zachary80]

Then top it off with some CO2 and let it age some more. I would advise picking up more primaries before doing this again. IMO, leaving it in primary would have been better than moving it. I have a batch in bottles now that went 7 weeks in primary before going to bottle/keg. Tasted very nice on bottling day and really looking forward to tasting it once carbonated and chilled. The kegged portion should be ready to to go glass this weekend.

Since I ferment, and age, in SS I have zero worries about air permeability... Since I don't rack to age, unless there's a damned great reason, and I have (now) CO2 tanks/regulators on hand, I don't even worry there. I have five aging kegs (four 1/6 bbl sanke and one 5 gallon corny) to use.

IMO, longer primaries do a better job of getting a brew to clear up than racking to a 'brite/bright tank'... Plus it gives the yeast more time to cleanup after itself. To me, that makes the longer primary more than worth doing.

Are you still bottling, or are you using kegs too?

Just bottling. Right now I am trying not to accumulate too much stuff so that I can move easier (I'm in a grad program). The Yeti had been in primary 5 weeks when we transferred it. I've read How To Brew and Yeast and still am not very clear on how long to further age larger beers post-fermentation

 

[Golddiggie]

How does it taste?? Let that be your guide... I would pick up one of the pocket chargers (made to go on the gas post on kegs) to top off the aging vessels... How long has it been in the aging vessel?

Do you have a wine (or beer) thief to use to pull samples? If not, either get one, or a stainless steel baster. Just be sure to sanitize it before using it to pull a sample (either item)... Hope you're using StarSan...

You don't need a lot of gear to make great brew. Just know what your hardware set can do for you and work with it.

 

[zachary80]

You're right, tasting it would at least be a good guide, but I wouldn't know how it would improve. I do have a nice theif, and use StarSan (test it with pH strips and replace often just to be safe). Do you normally chill a sample to better reflect the final beer?

It was 5 weeks in the bucket, and has been in the BB since Saturday night. I'll admit, since we moved to doing brewing/bottling/transfers in the same day, our testing and other minor factors have dropped off, but we save so many hours my schedule is really tight lately.

The charger looks like it might be good to have in the future

 

[Golddiggie]

I usually taste it at room temp... If you don't get any 'off' flavors there, chances are you won't in the finished brew. It will let you see if it's "hot" or not too.

Depending on the OG, and FG, you might want to let it age for a bit. This is also the time to decide if you want to age it on anything. Things like oak cubes to start with.

Personally, I would rather leave a brew alone, in primary, until it's actually ready for the next step or bottle/keg. I'll probably pull a sample from the batch I have in primary right now, before I dry hop it. IF the brew is otherwise "ready" then I'll dry hop it for a week then go to keg/bottle. I'm already planning on 5 weeks in primary before dry hopping it...

Taste should be your major decision factor for all brews... I sampled my mocha porter, at 7 weeks, before kegging/bottling it up. It tasted 'ready' and I felt it had enough time on the yeast. It had hit 8% ABV too, which was a bonus. If it hadn't tasted ready, I would have put it back and checked it again in another week...

After a while, you kind of get a good idea of how long your batches will take. Depending on the OG and the yeast, you can guestimate it will need X weeks in primary.

 

[Mongrel]

You can use the pocket chargers to purge, just get a ball lock keg that has a relief valve in the lid that you can pull (not a pin-lock type)...

Pin locks are easy to purge, just use your thumb nail, screwdriver, etc. on the gas post, just make sure it's the gas, or you'll get sprayed.