Building insulated/heated/cooled brew shed

[MaryB]

Working on my materials list for my 12'x16' brew shed that is off my 14x20 deck(same floor height right off the edge of the deck). Debating on wall materials. Do I go steel for wash down or go cheap with OSB I clear coat with marine varnish? Steel is about 20% more in price... Ceiling I am going steel for humidity and fire protection.

Floor is getting another layer of 3/4" osb flooring with garage floor coating for water proofing to cover the pressure treated ply that has seen better days(very rough/scraped up).

One corner is getting a 4x4' walk in fermenting room, then on that same back wall a double basin utility sink. brew rig will be along one long wall along with some open shelving for bottle storage and the opposite wall will have a bottling station/prep counter/storage for extra equipment.

I need to draw up some plans but right now the push is to get the interior finished out and the brew rig moved from the garage/work shop and get the fermenting room built. Rest I can add as I go. My Traeger smoker will park inside also so it is going to get crowded!

 

[5mooth0perator]

I'd go with a cellar, why heat and cool when the earth does it for you.

 

[Soulshine2]

Working on my materials list for my 12'x16' brew shed that is off my 14x20 deck(same floor height right off the edge of the deck). Debating on wall materials. Do I go steel for wash down or go cheap with OSB I clear coat with marine varnish?

Go look at your local home improvement center and look at white poly panels . They'd be thin , maybe 1/8" . And they would secure to a wall surface with a moisture resistant adhesive (like a shower surround)

 

[MaryB]

Ar you buying? The shed is built with bare stud interior... on a budget!

I'd go with a cellar, why heat and cool when the earth does it for you.

 

[MaryB]

To thin to go over studs... I will get a pic tomorrow if the drift isn't to deep..

Go look at your local home improvement center and look at white poly panels . They'd be thin , maybe 1/8" . And they would secure to a wall surface with a moisture resistant adhesive (like a shower surround)

 

[MaryB]

Pictures of what I am starting with. All the junk is getting sorted and moved to either a dumpster or the new garage. This shed was my only storage for a long time so it collected a lot of junk! The roll up door is getting replaced with a standard entry door with a window so I have more light inside.

Looking from the ground, as you can see the shed is directly off the deck and same floor height. Entrance to the house is on the deck to the left.

what a mess! I have started clearing it out!

As you can see I have bare studs to work with...

Soon as it gets warmer I tackle clearing everything out then I start finishing the interior.

 

[Jimbodaman]

This should be interesting to follow.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I'm confused..
You say your thinking about steel studs and metal roofing yet the shed your cleaning out to use is built already??

You say your on a budget....
Throw up some green sheetrock for the steam, paint, some nice cheap molding for looks and youll have a room that could be in your house only your brewing in it....adding metal studs to a wood frame aint gunna save your shed from burning down...go with an electric system and never think about flames

 

[Stillraining]

Id move...to much snow for me..

Seriously though JR brings up some good points. The sheet rock he refers to is commonly used in bathrooms and kitchen back splashes etc. where its prone to see moisture. I dont see you having a need of "washing/hosing" down your brew room such as a commercial brewery would do. Sheet rock is good fire protection..if you planed on gas burners and not electric just add some tin or tile on the face of the SR in that area alone.
If you do really want to fire hose everything down then green rock or wonder board ( cement board) it all and add the material soulshine recommended to its face.
We dont use green board in shower stalls around here anymore its all wonder board...it never goes bad.

Your going to have a nice brew room congrats!

 

[Soulshine2]

To thin to go over studs... I will get a pic tomorrow if the drift isn't to deep..

No, I was assuming there was some sort of wall board applied first, either sheetrock or simply plywood.

 

[fajita123]

I believe what he is referring to are called ag liners (here at least). https://www.google.ca/search?q=ag+l...i9rSAhUGw2MKHWY7BLcQ_AUIBigB&biw=1920&bih=990

You can insulate between existing studs, install your vapour barrier, and put the ag liner over top of that. It would be similar to OSB pricing, cheaper that tin / steel. Works great for washing and spraying down.

 

[MaryB]

Steel liner panels on the INSIDE. Same construction as my garage actually(and I have some leftover steel). Water resistant drywall is not a cheap option so not going there. This picture shows my garage going up, they have the steel liner panels up on the ceiling but haven't started on the walls yet. It will run about $18 or so per 4'x8' of wall covered... and adds a lot of fire protection. I will use steel studs to build the cold room because they are lightweight and as cheap as wood. With a 6" thick wall it should be pretty energy efficient.

Going electric is not in my budget, not happening!

I'm confused..
You say your thinking about steel studs and metal roofing yet the shed your cleaning out to use is built already??

You say your on a budget....
Throw up some green sheetrock for the steam, paint, some nice cheap molding for looks and youll have a room that could be in your house only your brewing in it....adding metal studs to a wood frame aint gunna save your shed from burning down...go with an electric system and never think about flames

 

[Stillraining]

Interesting..I have never seen that done before. Must be a North Eastern thing.

Well that will do it for sure.

Carry on.

 

[MaryB]

Pole barn style construction actually, this was the garage frame going up. It is cheaper per square foot than stick built and very strong with the inner steel liner. More and more people in rural Minnesota are going to this for garages and even some houses(different interior finish of course).

Interior finished out

And yes I have washed down the interior... it gets dusty here and it is nice to not have a lot of it inside the garage!.

 

[Stillraining]

Looks like a walk in cooler....like I said Interesting. And a first for me.

So now my question will be...why are you asking for any advice from us?

 

[MaryB]

Because I have never built a walk in cooler for one LOL I do have a wee bit of construction experience. My dad was an electrician, and my parents started buying and remodeling houses back in the early 70's so I spent a LOT of time swinging a hammer. Working on a layout design and that is where I will want input from those who have done this. What is best for work flow etc...

 

[oceanic_brew]

The drywall would have been more work, would not have had the nice commercial/brew room/shed look you have going which is nice.

Also without proper ventilation, vapor barrier, and insulation, the stuff fails. Looks like you have that covered.


Nice work!

 

[Soulshine2]

I believe what he is referring to are called ag liners (here at least). https://www.google.ca/search?q=ag+l...i9rSAhUGw2MKHWY7BLcQ_AUIBigB&biw=1920&bih=990

You can insulate between existing studs, install your vapour barrier, and put the ag liner over top of that. It would be similar to OSB pricing, cheaper that tin / steel. Works great for washing and spraying down.

not at all.
This is what I am referring to ...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

 

[Stillraining]

Metal is way more expensive in these parts then sheet rock, almost 3 x . But it installs fast and then your done. At your cost of 20% more its a no brainier for what you want...Go for it.

Are you going the air conditioning rout for your walk in cooler?.... or just leaving a exterior wall off to the outside......................................................sorry could not resist.:beard:

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I've never seen that before either. Looks like giant soffit material. They must bang you on sheetrock over there. I think its like $12 for 4x8 greenboard around here..of couse then theres spacke and paint

As a former framer....That's some crazy framing.
Its like post and beam meets modern day truss work meets old school wood shake lath on the roof....interesting for sure

 

[Soulshine2]

I've never seen that before either. Looks like giant soffit material. They must bang you on sheetrock over there. I think its like $12 for 4x8 greenboard around here..of couse then theres spacke and paint

As a former framer....That's some crazy framing.
Its like post and beam meets modern day truss work meets old school wood shake lath on the roof....interesting for sure

I agree. I had to enlarge that picture so to see the bearing of the trusses and door header. From what I see ,they're not and the weight is carried by fasteners only(nails?)or nailed on blocks. I'd be surprised if it requires inspection that it could pass a rough framing inspection.
Not telling you how to build your own barn but in my experience and profession ,thats not built correctly.

 

[Stillraining]

Former framer here too.
Pole barns are different. You dont have normal headers sitting on cripples. They are just as depicted in that construction just nailed or bolted to the main posts. Same with the Gable trusses..Just nailed to posts although the first rafter is notched into the post and the top cord of the truss nailed to that rafter as well, the top cord is sized one size larger then the rafter as well. The tail of the truss is blocked at the post and it is usually just nailed. She has a wide door so they have nailed a 2 x 12 both inside and outside...I have a 12' door and only a outside header. Only the center "made on site" trusses are through bolted and blocked.

I have included a couple picture of mine...all headers are just California corners even the roll ups.. Windows man doors doors everything. Mine is 48 x 36 and 13' to the eaves...planning on adding another 24 feet to it or "2 post widths" to it someday with 20 foot eves for a future second story apartment, and also so I can get my wood shop out of one corner of it as it is now.

As cheesy as it sounds that's how its done.

I like how she enclosed her sofits...but in this wet country we need some gable end eave overhang too..I have 18" all round.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

That is some crazy ass crap...
Building codes here are insane
The town is enough to kill ya...

 

[Stillraining]

Same here for house construction...takes usually 2 years just to get permits and plan approval. Always red lined with a bunch of extra engineering for seismic and sheer. Some of the nailing requirements are insane!!...almost turning a 4x4 or 4x 6 on a sheer wall into splinters.

If you wanted to live in a pole barn, they get way tougher.

My favorite bumper sticker is "Make getting welfare as tough as a building permit"

 

[MaryB]

Higher price price than steel... $13.30 for 3' coverage... so $17.74 per 4' for the steel...

not at all.
This is what I am referring to ...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

 

[Soulshine2]

Former framer here too.
Pole barns are different. You dont have normal headers sitting on cripples. They are just as depicted in that construction just nailed or bolted to the main posts. Same with the Gable trusses..Just nailed to posts although the first rafter is notched into the post and the top cord of the truss nailed to that rafter as well, the top cord is sized one size larger then the rafter as well. The tail of the truss is blocked at the post and it is usually just nailed. She has a wide door so they have nailed a 2 x 12 both inside and outside...I have a 12' door and only a outside header. Only the center "made on site" trusses are through bolted and blocked.

I have included a couple picture of mine...all headers are just California corners even the roll ups.. Windows man doors doors everything. Mine is 48 x 36 and 13' to the eaves...planning on adding another 24 feet to it or "2 post widths" to it someday with 20 foot eves for a future second story apartment, and also so I can get my wood shop out of one corner of it as it is now.

As cheesy as it sounds that's how its done.

I like how she enclosed her sofits...but in this wet country we need some gable end eave overhang too..I have 18" all round.

I see what YOU have , your doors are not in a bearing wall and the truss supported on top of the notched post(which is fine) goes to the ground as it should. Her truss ends should be on a full header since it has to be supported ( snow load/dead load) . After a few seasons that roll up door "header" is going to be smiling and the door will bind in the track. Easier to do it correctly right now instead of trying to shore it up later.

 

[MaryB]

You can't see it in the pics but that header 3 layers thick of 2"x16" header material designed for that span and it is not going anywhere. I had that roof engineered to carry 1,000 pounds of solar panels plus snow load! And to handle 120mph winds! A company that does nothing but build pole barns put it up and the plans were approved by the building inspector plus he approved the framing before it was covered.

 

[MaryB]

Anyway that is the garage and not the shed I am converting LOL

 

[MaryB]

I have a 10,000 BTU portable AC unit I am going to use. I am making an adapter for the hot air vent to run a vent pipe outside and I am going to run the condensate line through the wall into a garden bed. It will cool down to 61 degrees as is so no mods needed to the thermostat for the ales I brew. If i tackle a lager I will use a fridge with outboard controller that I already have setup. Only building a 4x4 cold room with 6" of r board in the walls so it should be pretty efficient. Will also add a small electric heater for winter use because temps here can hit -31f... I am going to have a remote temp monitoring panel in the house to keep an eye on things.

Metal is way more expensive in these parts then sheet rock, almost 3 x . But it installs fast and then your done. At your cost of 20% more its a no brainier for what you want...Go for it.

Are you going the air conditioning rout for your walk in cooler?.... or just leaving a exterior wall off to the outside......................................................sorry could not resist.:beard:

 

[MaryB]

2 1/2 hours of cleaning, tossing, sorting, moving to the garage today. I need to get a dumpster delivered so I can do some major tossing of scrap building materials I will never reuse. I still have a pickup load to drive around to the garage also.

Looks a lot bigger in there now!

 

[MaryB]

Now that the garden is in and I have time for other things again...

Ceiling joists all cut and in place except the 2 over the roll up door. It has to come out first(replacing with a 36" entry door). And I started on the new floor to cover the ripped up ply that is there now. 25 years of wear has it pretty ragged. I am furring out the wall studs with 2x3's so I have a 6" deep cavity for R19 wall insulation. Insulation is stashed in the garage for the walls, the big blue roll is for the ceiling and should be enough for 2 8" thick layers. That is leftover from the garage construction. Have to cut it to fit between ceiling joists but hey, it was paid for already!

 

[Brownalemikie]

What......did your wife get tired of smelling beer in the house? Btw, what's that white stuff piled up outside the shed?

 

[MaryB]

Wife? Sorry I don't swing that way! Single, plan on staying single too! At my age I don't need a man underfoot.

 

[Brownalemikie]

Wife? Sorry I don't swing that way! Single, plan on staying single too! At my age I don't need a man underfoot.

My apologies....just noticed your name, DOH. Sorry Mary. Still curious about the white stuff piled around the shed

 

[lschiavo]

Looks like it will be a great brew shed. Just wondering if your soffits are vented. If they are, make sure your insulation doesn't block the airflow. If not, I would put in a few gable vents and that might be easier before you insulate and close up the ceiling.

 

[NSMikeD]

Wife? Sorry I don't swing that way! Single, plan on staying single too! At my age I don't need a man underfoot.

Too bad for the rest of us- a brew shed and an off set smoker is quite a catch. A lot of we men get married for the looks and nookie and not the really important things, like beer and bbq.

 

[MaryB]

They are vented but I plan on a gable vent on the east end too. Lot of humidity in winter when I brew. Vent hood should control most of that but...

Looks like it will be a great brew shed. Just wondering if your soffits are vented. If they are, make sure your insulation doesn't block the airflow. If not, I would put in a few gable vents and that might be easier before you insulate and close up the ceiling.

 

[MaryB]

Framed in the new door opening. Need to sheath it then install the door. Once that is in things will go faster. Need that done so I can finish the floor, right now the roll up door tracks are in the way of the new flooring. Picked up some cheap vinyl to put down so it will be easy to mop, 12'x16' piece, going to run it up the walls 3 inches and caulk the corners for extra water proofing in case I need to hose it out...

 

[MaryB]

New door in and more of the floor down. 2 pieces of floor to cut yet...

Floor height is perfect, Traeger BBQ pit rolls over the sill easily

 

[lschiavo]

Looks great! Nice work. Do you have the metal to patch around the door on the outside?