Brewers hardware fermentors quality

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shoengine

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I'm in the market for a fermentor right now, and I was looking at the Ss and Spike unitanks. Both have their advantages and their disadvantages, but after doing some more snooping around I came across the Brewers Hardware fermentors. I really like the extra TC ports on the lids (which is why I was leaning towards the Ss models), but they also have jacketed models in the 8 and 15 gal size which I am really interested in (I'm not keen on coils).

Anyone have any issues with quality? Additionally, I don't see any specs on their pressure ratings. Are they pressure rated at all?
 
I'm in the market for a fermentor right now, and I was looking at the Ss and Spike unitanks. Both have their advantages and their disadvantages, but after doing some more snooping around I came across the Brewers Hardware fermentors. I really like the extra TC ports on the lids (which is why I was leaning towards the Ss models), but they also have jacketed models in the 8 and 15 gal size which I am really interested in (I'm not keen on coils).

Anyone have any issues with quality? Additionally, I don't see any specs on their pressure ratings. Are they pressure rated at all?

In this video from last year, Brewer Hardware states their eight gallon jacketed conical can go as high as 10 psi and their 15 gallon jacketed conical can go slightly more that 15 psi so they tell people the pressure rating is to 15 psi.
 
I have a 15 gal w/ jacket. Top quality, welds are perfect. Great customer support.

Add a glycol chiller//heater and you can dial in any temp you want. Add a long thermowell to one of the top 1-1/2 TC ports and you can make 5 gal batches with perfect temp control.

And there is very little condensation, too. I was considering a Ss unitank, but spent a bunch more and am very glad I did.
 
I have a 15 gal w/ jacket. Top quality, welds are perfect. Great customer support.

Add a glycol chiller//heater and you can dial in any temp you want. Add a long thermowell to one of the top 1-1/2 TC ports and you can make 5 gal batches with perfect temp control.

And there is very little condensation, too. I was considering a Ss unitank, but spent a bunch more and am very glad I did.

I have been looking at the same model you have. SSB Unitank comparison chart https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...unitank_all_unitsnew.jpg?11887141875371638501 is obviously slanted toward their unitank. SSB's unitank appears to have a higher psi rating.

Could you briefly describe any weaknesses or any items or changes that you think could enhance Brewer Hardware's 15 gallon jacket conical?
 
There's really nothing I would want to change on the fermenter itself.

I plan to upgrade from the supplied silicone gaskets to EDPM.
And I did buy their clamp nuts with red handles. I put them on the clamps that should never be removed when the fermenter is in use (so I don't do something stupid again).

I bought their spendy PRV/vacuum breaker, as an insurance against collapsing if I should cold crash without pressure. I use their CIP ball, but with the 8" top port I find I can reach in and clean with a sponge, too.

It's a very nice fermenter. If you can justify the price, I'm sure you won't regret buying one.
 
I have a 15 gal w/ jacket. Top quality, welds are perfect. Great customer support.

Add a glycol chiller//heater and you can dial in any temp you want. Add a long thermowell to one of the top 1-1/2 TC ports and you can make 5 gal batches with perfect temp control.

And there is very little condensation, too. I was considering a Ss unitank, but spent a bunch more and am very glad I did.
I understand that these jacketed fermentors nicely cools via glycol, but how are you heating these if you wanted to raise the temp? I feel like Im missing something very basic here lol.
 
I'm using a DIY A/C chiller. I put a 500W cartridge heater in the reservoir which enables me to heat for diacetyl rests or saisons. It runs off the same ITC-1000F as the chiller.

This only works because I am only running one fermenter. I'm the only beer drinker in the household, so one fermenter is plenty.
 
There's really nothing I would want to change on the fermenter itself.

I plan to upgrade from the supplied silicone gaskets to EDPM.
And I did buy their clamp nuts with red handles. I put them on the clamps that should never be removed when the fermenter is in use (so I don't do something stupid again).

I bought their spendy PRV/vacuum breaker, as an insurance against collapsing if I should cold crash without pressure. I use their CIP ball, but with the 8" top port I find I can reach in and clean with a sponge, too.

It's a very nice fermenter. If you can justify the price, I'm sure you won't regret buying one.

Are these the items you are referring to? Could you tell us what additional items you bought? Plus, could you describe what occurred that caused you to buy the red handles?

https://www.brewershardware.com/tri-clover-compatible-clamp-nut-red.html
https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri...lve-Vacuum-Breaker-15-PSI-TC15PRV15-1_51.html
 
Yes, those are the ones.

I'm just about to finish the boil of a low-temp mash NA brew, so I have my hands full right now. I'll be done in an hour or so.
 
I have a 15 gal w/ jacket. Top quality, welds are perfect. Great customer support.

Add a glycol chiller//heater and you can dial in any temp you want. Add a long thermowell to one of the top 1-1/2 TC ports and you can make 5 gal batches with perfect temp control.

And there is very little condensation, too. I was considering a Ss unitank, but spent a bunch more and am very glad I did.
What volume level does the sample port line up with?
 
I have a 15 gallon un-jacketed conical from Brewers Hardware. It is fantastic. I don't carb in it but I do pressure transfers from it.
 
Are these the items you are referring to? Could you tell us what additional items you bought? Plus, could you describe what occurred that caused you to buy the red handles?

https://www.brewershardware.com/tri-clover-compatible-clamp-nut-red.html
https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri...lve-Vacuum-Breaker-15-PSI-TC15PRV15-1_51.html
I bought their sealed 0-30 PSI pressure gauge, a long 1-1/2" thermowell (22"?) with 3" to 1-1/2" reducer for the Inkbird, the Spike carbonation stone (no longer used), a 1-1/2" instrument "T" to combine the PRV and PSI gauge on one port, a Jaybird 3" brink, a 1-1/2" elbow and butterfly valve to close off the blowoff, some 1" blowoff hose, and a bunch of clamps, caps, and gaskets. And a ball-lock to 1-1/2" for pressurizing.

The red clamps nuts are my clue to think about what I'm doing. I put them on clamps that hold "below waterline" valves, the racking arm, and the stock thermowell to the fermenter. I once had almost entirely removed the clamp holding the thermowell, thinking that I was removing only the thermometer. It's at about the 6gal level, and I had 11 gals of IPA in the fermenter. Now I stop and think if I'm turning a red nut. Works so far....
 
I bought their sealed 0-30 PSI pressure gauge, a long 1-1/2" thermowell (22"?) with 3" to 1-1/2" reducer for the Inkbird, the Spike carbonation stone (no longer used), a 1-1/2" instrument "T" to combine the PRV and PSI gauge on one port, a Jaybird 3" brink, a 1-1/2" elbow and butterfly valve to close off the blowoff, some 1" blowoff hose, and a bunch of clamps, caps, and gaskets. And a ball-lock to 1-1/2" for pressurizing.

The red clamps nuts are my clue to think about what I'm doing. I put them on clamps that hold "below waterline" valves, the racking arm, and the stock thermowell to the fermenter. I once had almost entirely removed the clamp holding the thermowell, thinking that I was removing only the thermometer. It's at about the 6gal level, and I had 11 gals of IPA in the fermenter. Now I stop and think if I'm turning a red nut. Works so far....

Thanks for the list! So, would it be a fair statement that the additional accessories purchased (ignoring the red clamp nuts, the carb stone and Norcal's 3" YB) came to roughly $250-$275?
 
I forgot to list the CIP ball and the PRV. There's another $155.o_O
The total I've spent on outfitting it? Add $155 for the CIP ball and the PRV and you're probably close.

Thanks for taking the time to help!
 
FYI, in an email they told me that the 8gal jacketed fermentor is good for up to "7-8 PSI". If I get that model I'd probably get a 5 PSI PRV/vacuum break.

So the guy in the video got it wrong. If you asked, what did they say about their 15 gallon jacketed conical psi limit?
 
The rep didn't mention the 15gal. However mention was made that they are looking into new hinged clamp setup for the 8gal to hit 15 psi.

Ahhh, I would only be interested in their 15 gallon jacketed conical. I'll reach out to them to see if anything is changing with it as well.

EDIT: I just emailed them. Hopefully, I will hear back on Monday or Tuesday.
 
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I remember BH telling me on the phone maybe a year and a half ago the jacketed 15 gal is rated for 15 PSI. I'll bet that rating is conservative. The inner shell is almost 1/8" thick. It's built like a tank.
Mine is spunding at 14+ right now. I have often had it to 14-1/2, which is where the PRV opens. The PRV has a huge diaphram, when it opens it just hisses quietly, unlike my air compressor, which will wake the dead.
 
I remember BH telling me on the phone maybe a year and a half ago the jacketed 15 gal is rated for 15 PSI. I'll bet that rating is conservative. The inner shell is almost 1/8" thick. It's built like a tank.
Mine is spunding at 14+ right now. I have often had it to 14-1/2, which is where the PRV opens. The PRV has a huge diaphram, when it opens it just hisses quietly, unlike my air compressor, which will wake the dead.
A bit late, but last year it think it was they released their pressure clamp for the 8g fermentor. The issue was the huge 12 in lid needs a secure fastener. I just picked it up last week and will be experimenting with it on my next brew. When I bought mine I had it kitted out for pressure fermentation, just waiting for this lid to be released.

20230401_143351.jpg


That is the ~8PSI clamp on it currently. The new one has two bolts, one on each side.
 
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