Bottling at 1.032

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ForrestWoods

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So... I have an imperial stout sitting on crown royal soaked oak chips that have been in secondary 10 days. Final gravity is 1.032, OG was 1.102

I'm very happy with the flavor and I'm looking to bottle some time this week I'm not sureifi need to pitch yeast at bottling due to crapped out yeasties. Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
Here's the recipe:


Steeped 30min at 155*
- 12oz 60L
- 10oz chocolate malt
- 3oz roasted barley
- 3oz black patent
- 8oz flaked barley

Brought to boil and added:
Minute 60
- 2.5oz Northern Brewer
- 10lb dark DME
- 1lb light brown sugar

Minute 30
- 1oz EKG

Minute 10
- .5oz US Goldings
- 4oz molasses

Chilled in sink ice bath to 70*
Aerated and pitched 1 smack pack of 1028 London Ale yeast

OG 1.102

At 10 days it was at 1.040 and held fast for a few days so I rehydrated a pack of dry Windsor with some DME and it came down to 1.032
 
ForrestWoods said:
So... I have an imperial stout sitting on crown royal soaked oak chips that have been in secondary 10 days. Final gravity is 1.032, OG was 1.102

I'm very happy with the flavor and I'm looking to bottle some time this week I'm not sureifi need to pitch yeast at bottling due to crapped out yeasties. Thoughts? Suggestions?

No need to pitch additional yeast and if it doesn't taste overly sweet it's probably done, wait a few days and see if it goes lower, if not its done.

1.102/4=1.027 so your pretty close to expected:)
 
High grav beers often finish high. My 17% Barleywine finished at 1.040, and has been for 2 years. You just got to make sure it's finished and not stuck.

A beer that high, I would add some fresh yeast at bottling time. Those puppies are probably tired. They may carb but it would take longer than if you freshened it up.
 
Maybe I'm overthinking this, but wouldn't you want to use the same yeast you fermented the beer with? If you used a yeast that was a higher attenuator at bottling wouldn't you risk bottle-bombs or are you just adding so little yeast and with no O2 they probably wouldn't ferment more then the priming sugar?

I just made a barleywine last weekend and am not sure what I'll do at bottling yet.
 
Maybe I'm overthinking this, but wouldn't you want to use the same yeast you fermented the beer with? If you used a yeast that was a higher attenuator at bottling wouldn't you risk bottle-bombs or are you just adding so little yeast and with no O2 they probably wouldn't ferment more then the priming sugar?

I just made a barleywine last weekend and am not sure what I'll do at bottling yet.

If there's no more fermentable sugar left beyond what was added at priming, there should be no risk of bottle bombs.

Chamapgne yeast is generally used because it is neutral and is tolerant of high alcohol environments, but probably any alcohol tolerant strains could work.
 
Thanks Rev. Am I rehydrating a whole pack of dry champagne and adding it to the priming sugar after it cools? I'm cool with low carbonation since its an imperial stout.

Also other than consistent grav readings, how can I tell its done rather than stuck?
 
Thanks Rev. Am I rehydrating a whole pack of dry champagne and adding it to the priming sugar after it cools? I'm cool with low carbonation since its an imperial stout.

Also other than consistent grav readings, how can I tell its done rather than stuck?

Try warming up the fermenter, and give the fermenter a GENTLE swirl to kick up the yeast a bit. Just give it a little rotate.
 
"If you used a yeast that was a higher attenuator at bottling wouldn't you risk bottle-bombs"

That is specifically why people use champagne yeast. It isn't able to digest any of the complex sugars and will just eat up the simple sugar you add for bottling.
 
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