I love that scene!!
Just means I want one Very well done sir :rockin:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M96tJsr0k9E/UDRh8TWAXxI/AAAAAAAAD0s/AKnWcBxCCzU/s1600/20120819-DSC_2219.jpg[/IMG]
Bolts, could you describe in more detail how you built the heating element housings. Where did you get the tri clamp fittings? I am attempting to build a heatstick similar to Airbalancer's design
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ultimate-heatstick-240-volt-116049/
but what you have is perfect for what I want. Ive seen a lot of slap happy designs with JB weld and plastic PVC, but the stainless tri clamp is the most solid adaptation I have seen. Thanks. Great build BTW.
I need to see this in person and am local, pm me if I can tempt you with a sixer of your favorite from belmont station.
So you have the 1.5" and the ripple didn't fit? But the standard straight fold back did?
I'm in process of having a 2" ferrule welded to my HLT for this and want to make sure I get the right element. The 2" triclamp element fitting is in the mail.
Looks very nice. The wiring is pretty neat and tidy. The lamicoid nameplates really add a professional touch. Is a ground bonding jumper required for the door?
IT'S SO FLUFFY!
HAHA yes. Monsters, Inc. quote. It's a good thing.
Bolt - did you ever wire in the alarm? I don't see it in your latest wiring diagram and none of your progress photos show the alarm wired up.
Thanks by the way, I am basically planning on copying your design for my control panel.
I should have a bill-of-materials and my "what I would do differently" thoughts up this weekend.
Subscribed! Exactly the build I am shooting for! Whats a ballpark estimate on the control panel total if you don't mind me asking?
newtstampede said:I am fine working with electricity but the thing I am hesitant about are the tool cost for cutting the enclosure.
Now that I added it up...
If you only include what's in or permanently attached to the control panel I'm at around $950 (not including shipping on some of the parts and leaving room for misc bits). I had guesstimated I'd be around $1000 + another $500 with the probes, elements, cords and various bits to hook up to the kettles.
If you add in the stuff attached to the control panel (cords/plugs, elements, element-to-kettle adapter and RTD probes) then it's up to around $1300. This is assuming you have some Tri-Clamp kettles since the probes are different. A non-TC setup will save some on top of this. Given my original goal of coming in around or under Kal's kit price -- I did alright (and then spent it on the kettles and fittings).
If you then start outfitting tri-clamp kettles and all the fittings, it starts adding up fast.
First off, thanks for the ongoing pics, help, and motivation! Your build is brilliant!
After individually ordering all your parts from different sites, would you recommend doing the same, or would you recommend ordering the kit from Kal's site ($1420, which include: PIDs, timer, switches, meters, panel tags, handles, heat sink, relays, wire, JB Weld, heat sink grease, and every single screw and nut etc.) I would still have to buy/build the power chord, heating elements, and temp probes separately, in addition to punching and painting the control box...
Now that I actually type the disadvantages to buying from kal's site, I guess I seem better off buying individually :cross:
Thoughts?
bolts said:I'm also a fan of the heatsink I used. It was wide enough that I didn't need to do anything with the existing hole in the panel. I just put it on the top and left it as-is.
how did you attach the heat sink to the box?
I love your thread and think your setup is amazing. If you wouldn't mind sharing, how much did this cost you from start to finish. PM me if you arent comfortable putting this out. I am looking to do something similar to you and would like a rough estimate on what it would cost. Thanks
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