Mostly 6 gallon with 8.5-9 gallon starting volume, mostly 90 minute boils. Just go 9 gph.Are you doing a 10 gallon batch or 5 gallon batch? Does it matter? I'm debating between 6 and 9.
Mostly 6 gallon with 8.5-9 gallon starting volume, mostly 90 minute boils. Just go 9 gph.Are you doing a 10 gallon batch or 5 gallon batch? Does it matter? I'm debating between 6 and 9.
Hey guys,
Massively interested in this, seems like the perfect solution for brewing indoors.
I currently have no control panel for my electric brewery, however i'm just about to upgrade to a HERMS system. For this I plan to make a control panel with a single PID in a control box big enough to expand on in the future. This PID will control the HLT for the HERMS process with the temperature probe fitted at the mash tun.
I really want to build a steam condenser, but I know that boiling will the lid on will retain heat much greater than how I currently use it.
Would it be possible to unplug the HLT element from my control panel and plug in my kettle element allowing me to reduce the power going to my kettle element during the steam condenser process?
Under normal operation the control panel will read temperature from my probe at the mash tun and adjust accordingly. This probe will be fixed into position and I wouldn't like to move it. I've read somewhere in this thread its possible to run the PID in manual mode, could anyone expand on this and potentially tell me if its possible with my situation?
Ideally i'd just like to switch plugs for now, keep the temperature probe in place - but not really be in use for the kettle boil. And manually control the kettle element by programming the PID to say run at 50%?
Thanks
Dave
In principle, yes, it's possible to do as you are asking.
In practice, it depends on a a few things:
1. What PID controller are you using? It may or may not have a manual mode; do you already have it or are you looking to get one?
2. Are both heating elements 240V or 120V? If one is 240V and the other is 120V, then it becomes a LOT harder to do what you want. Not impossible, but a lot more complicated. If they are both the same voltage, then read the next point.
3. What power level are your two heating elements? Need to make sure the plugs match up, which isn't a big deal (assuming the two heating elements are both the same voltage). You pick a plug and receptacle combination for the highest amperage AND have the proper wire sizes and circuit protection for the highest current either heater will pull. Technically, you may need to have different circuit protection for each heating element if they are significantly different in power level. It's easier if both heaters are the same wattage and voltage.
A lot of people use contactors to switch between heating elements to achieve basically the same thing as switching the plugs, just uses some big relays to do the job so you don't have to unplug but it does add complexity.
One thing to be very careful on: DO NOT PULL A HEATER PLUG OUT WHILE IT IS ON! Never disconnect a big load while it's pulling current through the wires or you could get an arc as you pull the pug. This can be very dangerous. Add an "OFF" switch that completely disconnects the power - the SSR is not a reliable way to disconnect power. If you are using a 5500W heater or lower power, a disconnect switch is easy to add without breaking the bank: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941
Thank you for the reply.
Each element I use in the HLT and the kettle are identical, so it seems I shouldn't have any issues switching over the plugs for my boil.
The PID I've ordered is the following;
Inkbird PID Temperature Controller Thermostat ITC-100VH
Thanks for your additional safety information, I didn't even think of this being a issue. I didn't consider installing a disconnect switch, but I might look into that now. I have a very limited experience with electronics, the whole PID build already feels a bit daunting for me to be honest, so I didn't want to over complicate anything inside - but just leave room to expand as I learn more.
When I've used my elements in the past, they have been plugged into mains power and when i'm finished using them I've switched the power off at the socket and then unplugged the element from the socket. I assume this is what your getting at in your safety information - that if I left the power on but just unplugged while the element is heating an arc could occur?
Therefore taking this into a PID controller, the best thing to do to switch plugs would be to disconnect the controller from mains supply before unplugging the element and switching it with the kettle element?
Not to beat a dead horse, but has anyone got a solid answer on when the steam-slayer will be back in stock? As far as I can tell they have been sold out for like 3 months now. When I inquired a month ago, I was told "any week now". Have they been built? Have they been shipped? Are they on the slow boat from China? Are they stuck in customs? Just looking for a timeframe. My build is coming together nicely and this is one of the final pieces to the puzzle, I really have no backup ventilation plans.
Thanks for the heads up. 17 left in stock as on right now...I think they showed up yesterday, 21 in stock. Better act fast!!
Thanks for the heads up. 17 left in stock as on right now...
Edit: not to be a dick, but I did sign up for email notification when it was supposed to be back in stock but have not received any emails with such information.
It’s because the product name changed. He has 2 options now the original 1.5 and a new 2 inch version. The product name was Steamslayer before. Now it’s steamslayer15 . When he changed the name it basically deleted the old product and any requested reminders.
I had a reminder as well. Been watching the page for awhile now. I was getting close to building one myself but really wanted Bobby’s version. It’s the last thing I need to finally brew on my new electric system!!!
Crap. I didnt think about the implications of the product code change. Sorry about that. Also, I have 100 units in stock but wanted a chance to catch up on the accessories before I run out.It seems like we have all been waiting, i too was expecting the email, but had the page added to my favorites, when i checked yesterday it had disappeared luckily i saw on here they were in stock and purchased.
Crap. I didnt think about the implications of the product code change. Sorry about that. Also, I have 100 units in stock but wanted a chance to catch up on the accessories before I run out.
Luckily I had a bunch of stuff to order and a couple of them were out of stock, got those notifications and got my slayer ordered! Oh I cannot wait to get this thing fired up, thanks @Bobby_M!Crap. I didnt think about the implications of the product code change. Sorry about that. Also, I have 100 units in stock but wanted a chance to catch up on the accessories before I run out.
Hey guys,
I've seen peoples using a 2" version of the steam condenser on 30 gal kettles, I am buying some 50 gal kettles and, I wanted to know what were your thoughts about my dilemma : 2" or 2,5" ? 3"?
For my case, I will need to adjust the position of the spraying nozzle as some water is flowing back to the boiler (I noticed that running a test before steam is produced, I cannot perform a visual check once the tank is full of steam, therefore not sure if it’s the case with steam pressure). <SNIP>
Any thoughts or advice on this ?
Have you tried measuring the amount of effluent produced? This may give you an idea how much is flowing back into the boiler.
Also: if you're getting similar post-boil amounts in the boiler, then that would suggest you're not getting any drain-back from the sprayer.
Sounds great. Pictures would help if you can post some up.
My boil off rate is lower but it was expected. What is less cool, is the fact that tap water (of the nozzle) may flow back to the boiler.
I do not know if my original post was clear. The only issue is not steam related. When tested in the early stage of the boiling process, part of the sprinkled water seemed to flow back to the boiler, thus questioning the nozzle position.
With steam or without, if the sprayer sprays into the inlet tube, it is too high.
Correct.
I did some sketches that enabled me to understand my mistake.
You may find below the boiler tank and condenser overall sketch as well as a detailed one of the condenser + nozzle position.View attachment 623399 View attachment 623400
I initially went for a 90° full cone nozzle and installed it 2 inches upper the tee inlet, therefore option 1 in the above sketch. As you may see it, it is simply mathematical that it would spray in the inlet tube. ugh!
Ideal option is option 3, but I am afraid it won’t be efficient in my 4” setting. A lot of steam will get through between inlet and nozzle.
In order to get it right, I need to go for option 3 but with a 60° cone nozzle. This way I will be able to position the nozzle just at the inlet of the tee and still yield option 3 optimal spraying result.
One other note, you really shouldn't connect the discharge hose directly to any pipe, or even the side of a sink. There should be an air gap so contaminants can't back up into your boil kettle. I agree that most of what's been posted here would never be an issue, but some of the hard pipe connections certainly could be.
Correct.
I did some sketches that enabled me to understand my mistake.
You may find below the boiler tank and condenser overall sketch as well as a detailed one of the condenser + nozzle position.View attachment 623399 View attachment 623400
I initially went for a 90° full cone nozzle and installed it 2 inches upper the tee inlet, therefore option 1 in the above sketch. As you may see it, it is simply mathematical that it would spray in the inlet tube. ugh!
Ideal option is option 3, but I am afraid it won’t be efficient in my 4” setting. A lot of steam will get through between inlet and nozzle.
In order to get it right, I need to go for option 3 but with a 60° cone nozzle. This way I will be able to position the nozzle just at the inlet of the tee and still yield option 3 optimal spraying result.
Don't sweat your efficiency concern. Go with option 3 - the condensation creates a local vacuum that pulls steam in.
Regarding the spray angle - what you do not want is spray water hitting the walls of the tube - that water is not condensing steam nearly as much and is effectively wasted. Perhaps a 60 degree pattern is better then.
Enter your email address to join: