Blichmann's new pump

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah, the tri-clamped head is the best apparent feature.
The PRV-style purge valve, not so much. Seems like a "spill wort on pump" valve.
Not wild about the multi-turn valve, either. Does anyone need that level of control on a pump?
I can see that as lengthening an "oops moment", while a ball valve takes a split-second to close...

Cheers!
 
I love that the head is removable with a tri clamp. Cool.

I do like how it does beak down. I also like the flow control built in. Not sure of the value of the PRV, as it is a centrifugal pump. I suppose one could use it to purge any air from the pump.
 
All yours for only $......................... I just recently bought my CI Chugger pump after looking at every pump I could find. :mad: This thing better be expensive.:D
 
This is nice but I think I can accomplish what I need with a rotateable bracket for my chugger. This will allow me to store upside down after brewing for drainage. I recirculate PBW and rinse after brewing, but without draining, the retained liquid gets nasty between brews. I'm looking at 2 position detent for 10 second, zero wrench rotations.
 
This is nice but I think I can accomplish what I need with a rotateable bracket for my chugger. This will allow me to store upside down after brewing for drainage. I recirculate PBW and rinse after brewing, but without draining, the retained liquid gets nasty between brews. I'm looking at 2 position detent for 10 second, zero wrench rotations.

I have this slide in bracket from MoreBeer, I could take the pump out and turn it over, slide it back in. Easy Peasy............

https://www.morebeer.com/products/pump-mounting-bracket-stainless.html
 
Setting the price at twice the benchmark that is the SS side-entry Chugger would be quite aggressive.
I would not buy one pump when I could get two for the same money.
Classically, the price needs to be close enough to put the question in play. 2X isn't going to do it, imo..

Cheers!
 
... Seems like a "spill wort on pump" valve.
...

My thoughts exactly when I saw this earlier today. Hot wort spraying out during priming for sure. Perhaps I'm looking at it wrong. The idea is good, the positioning of it, maybe not so stellar. WTF do I know.

Other than that it looks like a great piece of kit. Triclamp on the head is so clever.
 
Setting the price at twice the benchmark that is the SS side-entry Chugger would be quite aggressive.
I would not buy one pump when I could get two for the same money.
Classically, the price needs to be close enough to put the question in play. 2X isn't going to do it, imo..

Cheers!

Could be double, it's not apples to apples. They are not just putting a sticker on a generic pump and calling in their own. Theres a lot unique to this pump over whats currently available.

Not sure about the purpose of the PRV other than maybe priming. Agree seems like a good way to get burned if thats the purpose.
 
I'm in on this. Thanks !!!! The only benefit I see in the new Blichmann pump is the ability to easily drain. The variable flow and air purge I accomplish with Tee and a couple of ball valves. This slide bracket gives me the easy drain


Yep, exactly like you imagine. Seems to be nice and tight/solid with no rattles too.
 
I'm in on this. Thanks !!!! The only benefit I see in the new Blichmann pump is the ability to easily drain. The variable flow and air purge I accomplish with Tee and a couple of ball valves. This slide bracket gives my the easy drain

You are welcome,
Yeah, that's how my pump is set up too. I had an air purge valve up high (above the kettle) at first but found (so far, I am a noob) that I only need it near the kettle (I think). So my purge is above the pump at the kettle drain now, should work kinda like what Blichmann has going on there but away from the pump. I will test it soon I hope!!!


:mug::mug::mug:
 
Any idea how powerful the motor is? It looks like a 1/20HP or maybe 1/8HP? I've been looking for a quality CIP pump in the 1/2HP+ range but all I've been finding are $1-$2k+ range.
 
A bleeder is a great idea however that execution is terrible. What is the process? Open the bleeder until hot sticky liquid flows out all over the pump and the floor!? :confused: Also since March and Chugger pumps are in the $150-$175 range (and have worked great for 1000's of brewers) I'm guessing Blichmann comes in at $225 pushing it well into the "why would I buy this pump when I can buy a Chugger or March for much less??". However if it can support CIP that is another story...
 
I wish someone would design a "floating ball" device into the top of their centrifugal pump to make it it automatically vent. Think a FOB detector in reverse where the presence of liquid floats the ball and seals the vent at the top.
 
A bleeder is a great idea however that execution is terrible. What is the process? Open the bleeder until hot sticky liquid flows out all over the pump and the floor!? :confused: Also since March and Chugger pumps are in the $150-$175 range (and have worked great for 1000's of brewers) I'm guessing Blichmann comes in at $225 pushing it well into the "why would I buy this pump when I can buy a Chugger or March for much less??". However if it can support CIP that is another story...
But it is Blichmann so you need to throw a few more $ in for "the name" - my guess $275 (this is probably feeding right into Blichmann for them to gauge where the price should fall :))
To me it is Blichmann providing enginerred solutions to problems that don't really exist. A mag drive pump is not a good solution for a pump thatneeds to be CIP'd as the cavity is notoriously hard to clean out property with CIP. If you mean a pump for a CIP system it looks underpowered.
I wish someone would design a "floating ball" device into the top of their centrifugal pump to make it it automatically vent. Think a FOB detector in reverse where the presence of liquid floats the ball and seals the vent at the top.

Have you seen the auto-vents which are basically what you described? Except for that they are separate units, which I would prefer as when it does need to be replaced it is a simple swap out instead of dealing with replacement parts on the pump
 
If you mean a pump for a CIP system it looks underpowered.

Agreed on this, it looks like they're using a standard mag-drive impeller instead of the high flow version in the Chugger Max / March AC-5.

Have you seen the auto-vents which are basically what you described?
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0590715-1-8-FV4-Auto-Air-Vent-3679000-p Something like that? I'd always worried that the commercial vents would be too hard to sanitize.

My thought was that a simple cavity could be machined into the "top" of the pump head with a captive floating cylinder and a threaded cap. The presence of water would seat the cylinder against a top seal, and the operating pressure in the pump head would further press the seal closed. Cleaning would just involve removing the cap and rinsing out.
 
Auto-vent an interesting thought. I have two styles of auto-vents on my (hot water) home heating system, one is an upward-pointing tapered coil thingie and the other is the classic floating ball in a can valve.

But I'm not sure how one could clean either of them as they're designed to resist the flow of liquid :confused:

Cheers!
 
But I'm not sure how one could clean either of them as they're designed to resist the flow of liquid :confused:

Cheers!

My thought was that the ball-in-can approach would be easiest to clean, perhaps by removing the top of the "can". CIP wouldn't work but it seems like the simplest approach.
 
Agreed on this, it looks like they're using a standard mag-drive impeller instead of the high flow version in the Chugger Max / March AC-5.


http://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0590715-1-8-FV4-Auto-Air-Vent-3679000-p Something like that? I'd always worried that the commercial vents would be too hard to sanitize.

My thought was that a simple cavity could be machined into the "top" of the pump head with a captive floating cylinder and a threaded cap. The presence of water would seat the cylinder against a top seal, and the operating pressure in the pump head would further press the seal closed. Cleaning would just involve removing the cap and rinsing out.
Yeah I don't know about cleaning those auto-vents out - the one you linked to seems to be able to be unscrewed but your idea seems a lot cleaner. Maybe it is something Jaybird could knock out - machine up a piece of SS hex bar with a 1/2 NPT thread one side, drilled through just oversized for a PTFE ball which will seat into a vent hole in a machined cap with o-ring to seal.
 
Looks like a bigger motor than the March? Might even be TEFC (waterproof?). I cant see Blichmann offering a new pump with the same capabilities as the March 809/815. I'm hoping for more capacity in this new Riptide.
 
It does appear that the housing would allow for TEFC cooling which is an advantage considering our application - as long as the cooling keeps up.
But removing the fins it also appears similar in size to the motors used on the March 809/815.

As well, looking at the rotor size I'd be surprised if the flow specs are hugely different. While the rotor shape is interesting the diameter doesn't look much different...

Cheers!
 
I am going to guess $349. Just the linear flow valve is $59 by itself.

Chris
 
I am going to guess $349. Just the linear flow valve is $59 by itself.

Chris

Hopefulyl they realize how few they'll sell at that price point. I'm guessing $275 range, which is still too high, but they'll sell. I've been in search for a pump in a reasonable price range with an easily removable head, this fits the bill perfect (minus the pointless, imho, prv.)
 
I have one of each, March and Chugger. Will be interesting to see what the price point is. I do like the purge valve as I do have some issues with getting the wort/water flowing without cycling the switch most of the time.
 
Here's a solution to the priming / purging problem.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1483710732.433178.jpg

In my setup flow is bottom to top. The valve that goes off to the right is the prime/purge valve. Just open it until liquid starts to flow, then close it. If i need to purge i open it and then disconnect the hose above, and everything shoots right down. I put a bucket under it to catch all the sticky stuff.

It's been one of the most useful "little things" i put in my brewery design.
 
Its definitely a cool little unit...they came by us here at March to use our test tank and equipment to measure the performance. :cool:
Its their product so i wont be giving any details away ;)
 
Back
Top