BIAB Brewing (with pics)
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I don't quite get when you say splitting up the 10 gal batch. You are just doing two 5 gal batches back to back days. I'd make separate starters and ferment separately. You're just doing 2 batches of the same recipe. No need to make it complicated.
gnarlyhopper
Active Member
mtnagel,
I couldn't brew a 10-gallon batch all at once. I can get a larger fermentation bucket, but not another stockpot! Right now I am thinking "lawnmower beer", something that will be tapped often.
I see I am getting a little edgy. I need to brew pretty soon!
ChrisL,
When bottling days started to get longer, and more and more room was dedicated to bottles, and occasional flat uncarbed bottles appeared, it was time to change. The CO2 should help minimize all the problems.
Cheers!
-gnarlyhopper
I couldn't brew a 10-gallon batch all at once. I can get a larger fermentation bucket, but not another stockpot! Right now I am thinking "lawnmower beer", something that will be tapped often.
I see I am getting a little edgy. I need to brew pretty soon!
ChrisL,
When bottling days started to get longer, and more and more room was dedicated to bottles, and occasional flat uncarbed bottles appeared, it was time to change. The CO2 should help minimize all the problems.
Cheers!
-gnarlyhopper
Doing two successive brews and one fermentation is known as a Texas two step, I have done it and it works! JMO but doing two seperate starters and two seperate batches is complicated in my world! Do keep an eye on fermentation temps, with a larger batch size comes more heat generated from fermentation.
Gnarly,
You are going to love kegging! Perfect carbonation at the touch of a dial, no more sanitizing bottles....priceless!
TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
I made the move to BIAB amoth ago when I reformulated my IPA from extraxt to all grain. I can't believe the difference! This thread was very helpful!
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
This is how it was for me as well. I thought the beer I was making using extracts were good. That is until I made my first AG doing BIAB...
TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
I pulled a sample on friday after a week in the bottle (I'm so impatient it isn't even funny). I had the sample when I was botling and thought "when this is cold and carbed, its going to be great." I had it cold and the carb was coming through, and immediately sent out a batch text to all my IPA drinking friends about it. Nedless to say this stuff won't last long. I think I should get to brewing a second and third batch soon!
Sorry, but still not getting it. So you are fermenting the 2 batches in 1 container that is 10 gal+?
I've done 10 gal batches (partial boil extracts) with one starter before and fermented in 2 six gal buckets. Now that I'm doing full boil BIAB AG, I still don't see why it's so bad to just make 2 batches and ferment separately. So what is the advantage to this method?
I just tasted my very first BIAB AG beer and it was awesome. If this is a sign of things to come, I can't wait to do more BIAB!This is how it was for me as well. I thought the beer I was making using extracts were good. That is until I made my first AG doing BIAB...
TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
Now I need to reformulate all my extract recipes...oh well.
Or just start from scratch 
TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
It's a lot easier than you think
I have 2 kids under the age of 4. Easy tasks are now hard tasks. Thankfully, they are eating their breakfast now.
TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
Or just start from scratch
This is probably what I'll do. My extract brews were nothing special to begin with. I can part with them and have no qualms. Dancing Hoppipotimus v2.0 is proof that a complete reformulation is totally worth it!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f69/dancing-hoppipotimus-v2-0-a-411709/
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
Brewed up my biggest grain bill so far doing BIAB over the weekend. Made what I consider to be between an IPA and a IIPA. Had a gain bill of almost 16 lbs. with a target OG of around 1.075. Came in at nearly 1.80. Not bad for using a 7.5 gal kettle!
Took my first hydrometer reading since brew day today and it clocked in at 1.010! :rockin: That's an ABV of almost 9! Sample tasted great too! Big beers can be had using smaller kettles!
Dry hopping today and hopefully bottling sometime next week!
gnarlyhopper
Active Member
mtnagel,
Right off the top- yes, all into one fermenter.
This of course would be for a recipe you can repeat successfully, and you need more of it. My example being a "lawnmower" beer. I basically want it to be ready all at once, and I need enough. The advantage, IMHO, would be adding the second day's batch to what should be a very healthy yeast colony you have carefully cultivated during the previous 24 hours with the first wort. It is sort of like adding wort to a starter, but this starter has been conditioned to do it's thing best with the exact conditions you wish to ferment at- wort gravity, adjuncts, it will all be there. I'm not ready to brew, but maybe someone can try a mini stovetop experiment and see if this idea works.
The yeast you breed from day one will be accustomed to it's job by the time
you add the wort on day two. It will all ferment out eventually and the hydrometer will let you know when it's done. For me it all goes to kegs on CO2, and hopefully blending two worts will minimize mistakes.
Here's to complicating the simple.
-gnarlyhopper
Right off the top- yes, all into one fermenter.
This of course would be for a recipe you can repeat successfully, and you need more of it. My example being a "lawnmower" beer. I basically want it to be ready all at once, and I need enough. The advantage, IMHO, would be adding the second day's batch to what should be a very healthy yeast colony you have carefully cultivated during the previous 24 hours with the first wort. It is sort of like adding wort to a starter, but this starter has been conditioned to do it's thing best with the exact conditions you wish to ferment at- wort gravity, adjuncts, it will all be there. I'm not ready to brew, but maybe someone can try a mini stovetop experiment and see if this idea works.
The yeast you breed from day one will be accustomed to it's job by the time
you add the wort on day two. It will all ferment out eventually and the hydrometer will let you know when it's done. For me it all goes to kegs on CO2, and hopefully blending two worts will minimize mistakes.
Here's to complicating the simple.
-gnarlyhopper
Interesting approach. Sounds good. Cheers!
user 78027
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How long does it take you to drink 10 gallons? All this does is make it so you can wait twice as long before you have to make it again.
If it takes too long you might get out of practice
Thats what is so good about Beer DIY
you can do it however you want. Awesome process :rockin:Forrest-hunters
Well-Known Member
So how many people are using recirculating pumps when doing BIAB? I just pulled the trigger on a spike brewing 15 gallon pot and thinking about a small pump to recirculate to make sure there are no dead spots in the wort. I had him make my pot with the thermometer 1.5" off the bottom instead of 4". This way I can put something down there keep the bag off the bottom of the pot.
What are these "dead spots" you refer to? IMHO people recirculate with BIAB because they like to build a "system". A $4 spoon will mix the mash well!
If you recirculate with a pump, you will most likely need to add heat AND temperature control.
I would suggest a few batches the simple way with just insulating the kettle with coats or blankets during the mash, it works well and is very easy!
If you recirculate with a pump, you will most likely need to add heat AND temperature control.
I would suggest a few batches the simple way with just insulating the kettle with coats or blankets during the mash, it works well and is very easy!
Forrest-hunters
Well-Known Member
wilser,
I was just thinking below the cake cooling rack or whatever I put in the bottom to lift up the bag would not be in contact with the grains and that the pump would help move the wort around to even it out and extract the sugars. I have done about 10 the regular way and was just thinking this may be interesting to play with. I just bought this new pot and will not be sparging anymore for 5 gallon batches and doing little for 10 gallon batches hopefully. Just trying to make sure everything comes incontact with the grains and help hold temps better through out the mash and mash out.
I was just thinking below the cake cooling rack or whatever I put in the bottom to lift up the bag would not be in contact with the grains and that the pump would help move the wort around to even it out and extract the sugars. I have done about 10 the regular way and was just thinking this may be interesting to play with. I just bought this new pot and will not be sparging anymore for 5 gallon batches and doing little for 10 gallon batches hopefully. Just trying to make sure everything comes incontact with the grains and help hold temps better through out the mash and mash out.
Why put anything in the bottom of the pot?
1. Either don't add heat while the bag is in the pot.
2. Heat gently and stir with the bag in the pot.
3. Lift or suspend the bag off the bottom of the pot while heating.
4. Adjust mash temps with a bit of boiling water
5. Add a boiling water infusion to reach mash out.
There is no proven NEED to do a mashout w/ BIAB, just my opinion. I like to do FULL volume BIAB, no strainer baskets, no cake racks, nothin! The only things you NEED in the pot is a bag and grain!
I suspect incidents reported of scorched bags result when someone cranks up the heat with a bag and grain packed on the bottom of the kettle...In my experience gentle heat and stirring works fine, and will not damage a bag.
I like to keep BIAB simple, of course your opinions and mileage may vary...I also understand people like to play around and and try and improve / complicate the process...cheers!
Agreed! The "problem" with BIAB is that it's too simple and easy, hence the desire to make it harder than it needs to be.
I BIAB'ed AHS's Smoked Porter this morning. Dunked sparged a couple of times, squeezed the bag "like it owed me money" and brewhouse efficiency was 77.6 %; SG to the fermenter was 1.062 - missed my target of 1.064 though
. What's that going to give me, a tenth or two off my final SG? Big deal. But I honestly admit to being simple and lazy .Fred
Ditto. I just grab the bag at either side and swish it up and back while heating if I need to add heat. That also equilibrates the temp while heating.
In fact, when I made my keggle I made a false bottom out of the cut out top and must not have ground down the burrs well enough before I used it. During my first use I tore a hole in the bag when it caught on a burr. Never used one again.
el_caro
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I generally brew smaller batches (4 gallon approx) and use an 8 gallon SS pot for mashing and as a kettle.
One thing that annoyed me a little was that there was no false bottom and I was a little cautious about heating with the bag in since it was a little bigger than need be. The bag also caught on my stirrer when I stirred.
My solution was to grab two 13" perforated aluminium pizza trays from the kitchen. They fit perfectly. One goes in the bottom of the pot upside down and acts as a false bottom. The other goes in the bottom of the bag and acts as a spreader for the bag making stirring a breeze.
I now apply heat as needed without care and stir a lot both during mash and mash out. My efficiency has improved dramatically and it is just so much easier.
One thing that annoyed me a little was that there was no false bottom and I was a little cautious about heating with the bag in since it was a little bigger than need be. The bag also caught on my stirrer when I stirred.
My solution was to grab two 13" perforated aluminium pizza trays from the kitchen. They fit perfectly. One goes in the bottom of the pot upside down and acts as a false bottom. The other goes in the bottom of the bag and acts as a spreader for the bag making stirring a breeze.
I now apply heat as needed without care and stir a lot both during mash and mash out. My efficiency has improved dramatically and it is just so much easier.
This is the beautiful thing about brewing, in general. It's also the downside of brewing, in general.
We all have one destination: making great beer. The journey to that destination can take many paths; no one path is "more right" than another.
However, when some people are faced with too many decisions (such as myself), they get confused and lost.
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
No need to get confused and lost. It might take some trial and even some error, but once you figure out the system that works best for you, it is ALL beautiful!
And even in error, you're still making beer. Might not be great beer, but it's still beer!
It took me a few batches of BIAB to finally get to the system I currently use. It's not quite as simple as wilser's suggestions, but it works for me. I have the consistency I'm looking for and I'm hitting efficiencies in the mid to upper 80's each brew. But, like I said above, it took a few batches to get to where I'm at now, and in the end, it was worth it.
I guess what I'm trying to say is don't let all of the different variations to brewing confuse you. Just pick and choose which one works for you and stick with that! It's all about what works best for you!
Exactly.
Besides.. the journey can be as fun as arriving at your destination. :-D
(I'm feeling very Zen today... lol)
Besides.. the journey can be as fun as arriving at your destination. :-D
(I'm feeling very Zen today... lol)
doublebogey10
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100 percent agree. That's been my problem - taking a relatively simple process and then overdoing it with research and info ... paralysis by analysis.
My first BIAB was a three-gallon kit from NM (De Belge Farmhouse IPA; which I highly recommend, by the way). That led me into wanting more info about BIAB and after reading this whole thread, my next couple of brew days were much more anxiety-filled than the should have been.
Keep it simple. Find a process that works for you. If something is off, tweak your process. If you want to try something new, do it. But don't overthink it.
I did two extract brews when I started a couple years ago. One turned out great, the other turned out badly (contamination). Then I discovered BIAB and switched over. After a few more brew days, all of which were hectic and exhausting I invited over a buddy who had been brewing for years but only extract. He wanted to see BIAB in process. Ultimately he switched to BIAB, but the biggest outcome of that day for me is he taught me when and how to relax. I still am a lot more precise than he is (he throws in a handfull of this hop or that crystal malt whenever he happens to feel like it, I work from precise recipes and weigh things ) but my brew days are now relaxed and I have time to do other things while I'm brewing. Makes all the difference in the world. Relax, don't worry....
) but my brew days are now relaxed and I have time to do other things while I'm brewing. Makes all the difference in the world. Relax, don't worry....
MMJfan
Well-Known Member
I did two extract brews when I started a couple years ago. One turned out great, the other turned out badly (contamination). Then I discovered BIAB and switched over. After a few more brew days, all of which were hectic and exhausting I invited over a buddy who had been brewing for years but only extract. He wanted to see BIAB in process. Ultimately he switched to BIAB, but the biggest outcome of that day for me is he taught me when and how to relax. I still am a lot more precise than he is (he throws in a handfull of this hop or that crystal malt whenever he happens to feel like it, I work from precise recipes and weigh things
LOL! I like how your buddy works! I would say I'm somewhere in between you and your buddy!
I do like to follow my recipes pretty closely (weighing out my grains, following the hop schedule closely, etc), especially ones that I'm trying to make a clone of a beer I like. But I certainly do relax while I'm brewing (I don't get worked up if my mash temp is at 153 instead of 151 to start or freak out because I forgot to make a starter prior to the morning of my brewday :cross
. It would almost be work otherwise right? TangoHotel
Well-Known Member
I like it!
PackerfaninSanDiego
Member
No need to get confused and lost. It might take some trial and even some error, but once you figure out the system that works best for you, it is ALL beautiful!
And even in error, you're still making beer. Might not be great beer, but it's still beer!
It took me a few batches of BIAB to finally get to the system I currently use. It's not quite as simple as wilser's suggestions, but it works for me. I have the consistency I'm looking for and I'm hitting efficiencies in the mid to upper 80's each brew. But, like I said above, it took a few batches to get to where I'm at now, and in the end, it was worth it.
I guess what I'm trying to say is don't let all of the different variations to brewing confuse you. Just pick and choose which one works for you and stick with that! It's all about what works best for you!
can you describe your methods?
Did you guys see this on Reddit? I know a lot of people say you don't need anything on the bottom of the pot, but it makes me glad that I use a metal baking rack on the bottom of mine. Of course we don't know how long or how high heat he used to have this happen.
Matt,
That's why I will always use a "false bottom" in my electric unit. I have seen albeit rare a bag getting scorched in a unit with an element and gas burner as well. If there is a chance, which there is, I don't want to ruin a bag and a batch of beer.
On my next BIAB I will just pull a gallon of wort from the mash at the bottom spigot and add back to the top 1-3 times during the 60 minute mash to get that dead space under my false bottom incorporated into the mash and boost my efficiency a little.
That's why I will always use a "false bottom" in my electric unit. I have seen albeit rare a bag getting scorched in a unit with an element and gas burner as well. If there is a chance, which there is, I don't want to ruin a bag and a batch of beer.
On my next BIAB I will just pull a gallon of wort from the mash at the bottom spigot and add back to the top 1-3 times during the 60 minute mash to get that dead space under my false bottom incorporated into the mash and boost my efficiency a little.
Did you guys see this on Reddit? I know a lot of people say you don't need anything on the bottom of the pot, but it makes me glad that I use a metal baking rack on the bottom of mine. Of course we don't know how long or how high heat he used to have this happen.
OK, so the guy likely cranked up the burner with 10 lbs of mash packed at the bottom of his kettle....surprise! of course it burnt to hell!
C'mon guys, sphagetti sauce will burn just like that if you are a dumb ass and burn the bottom of the pot!
Even if you use a F/B...you need to move the wort, or the wort below the F/B will boil and the mash will be cool.
Common sense here, just like cooking...you need to move the heated wort around, gentle heat and stirring.
Just cause one A-hole had a problem, It means nothing to me...may as well post a pic of grandmas burnt roast beef...cheers!
Wow. Just because someone had a brewing mishap doesn't make he or she a ******* or an *******. I'm assuming you've never made a mistake.
My point to the whole thing is that if its possible, and it is, I'm taking the precaution.
My point to the whole thing is that if its possible, and it is, I'm taking the precaution.
gnarlyhopper
Active Member
OOOP!
Looks like it has become carbon. I once melted a polyethylene tub containing extract; though the pot was full of water, the heat from below still melted it. And burned it to the bottom. Most of it was carbon. Removed simply by using oven cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad. You don't have to stand around and watch this, it will take a little time. All gone, no problem.
Just use a stainless cake rack to keep the bag away from the heat; it WILL melt. Amazon has round stainless racks. "Chromed" racks will "de-chrome" and rust. Plus your cake rack can double as a - cake rack. A commercially available "false bottom" just sits around for the next brew day. Stir while mashing; breweries do it.
Although it is possible to get away with several batches without an accident, it is there waiting for you- any little distraction that can draw you away can do it if your bag is in contact with the bottom. It's no worth the risk for me, destroying a bag like that will ruin the mash and therefore your beer. You will be out 1 bag, your time, and one batch of beer. Major disruption of pipeline! Now get that thing clean and correct the disaster!
-gnarlyhopper
Looks like it has become carbon. I once melted a polyethylene tub containing extract; though the pot was full of water, the heat from below still melted it. And burned it to the bottom. Most of it was carbon. Removed simply by using oven cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad. You don't have to stand around and watch this, it will take a little time. All gone, no problem.
Just use a stainless cake rack to keep the bag away from the heat; it WILL melt. Amazon has round stainless racks. "Chromed" racks will "de-chrome" and rust. Plus your cake rack can double as a - cake rack. A commercially available "false bottom" just sits around for the next brew day. Stir while mashing; breweries do it.
Although it is possible to get away with several batches without an accident, it is there waiting for you- any little distraction that can draw you away can do it if your bag is in contact with the bottom. It's no worth the risk for me, destroying a bag like that will ruin the mash and therefore your beer. You will be out 1 bag, your time, and one batch of beer. Major disruption of pipeline! Now get that thing clean and correct the disaster!
-gnarlyhopper
Sorry, If that came off a bit harsh, where I come from ******* and A-hole are nearly terms of endearment around friends...again sorry if my post was innappropriate.
Everyone, myself included has I'm sure been both a time or two, the important thing is to learn and not repeat.
My whole point was that direct heating any mash is a BAD idea without movement of the wort, this problem is not isolated to BIAB, but brewing in general.
Even with a false bottom, it is good practice to move the wort as small pieces can get through the false bottom and scorch.
Linked below is the simple solution to the problem...cheers and Happy Memorial Day!
Last edited by a moderator:
MMJfan
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Sure. I use two kettles (7.5 gal and 5 gal). I mash in about 6 gal. of water (give or take depending on my grain bill). Then, after the mash, I mashout in the same kettle by heating my kettle up to 170F or so. I then let it rest in that kettle for 10 minutes. While the big kettle is resting, I then take about 2.5 gal of water in my 5 gal kettle and heat it up to 170F and I use this for a sparge. I drain the bag in the 7.5 gal kettle before transferring to my sparge kettle. I then sparge for 20 min.
Once the sparge is done, I then let the bag drain again and then take the liquid from my sparge kettle and add it to what I have collected in my mash kettle and this usually gets me pretty close to my pre-boil volume. If I have to I take a colander upside down in a bucket and squeeze the bag to get a bit more liquid.
I'm consistently hitting 80-85% efficiencies. I tried skipping the mashout for a couple of batches and my efficiencies dropped to the 60's for each batch. Went back to doing mashouts and the efficiencies went back up fwiw.
So, this is the system that I have found works best for me. Others might say I could probably skip some steps, but I've tried and not gotten the results I'm happy with so I'm sticking with what works for me!
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