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GoatyBeer

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Hey all,

Trying to experiment with one-gallon batches, doing a BIAB in a two-gallon pot on the stove. I'm running into problems keeping my mash temp within range, so what I wonder is this: Would it be possible to mash in a bag in a 2 gallon drink cooler? Why or why not is this a good idea? Looking forward to suggestions and comments.

Example cooler: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TIPRUY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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It most certainly is possible to do that. I believe some people here have actually employed a cooler into their BIAB setups.
 
Cool...will a regular drink cooler and a paint strainer bag work without any customization?
 
It should - jut needs to hold all the grain and (most) all of the full volume mash water. In at least one way BIAB is mis-named. You really MASH in the bag v, BREW in the bag.
 
with the right size cooler, you wouldn't even need the bag. Get a steel mesh hose and make the small mash tun in the same manner you would make a full size one.
 
Check out basic brewing video on YouTube. James spencer does the exact same thing on some of his small batches. His 100% rye I think is one.
 
I'll check out the Basic Brewing vids on youtube...they look like they'd be interesting. I'm hoping that using the cooler will give me better efficiency as I didn't do so great last time. Thanks for all the advice guys!
 
While I don't biab my self, some folks will heat up their oven to 170ish, get to mash temp on the stove, turn the oven off, then put their biab vessel in the warmed oven to maintain temps over the hour. You could try that before buying more equipment. Maybe someone can chime in with a better description of this procedure.
 
How about putting the pot in the oven on a "hold warm setting"

I know not all ovens have this facility. Mine can hold temps as low as 150 and when I did a 3 gallon batch in my old pot that is what I did.

Monitored the mash temp throughout with a digital thermometer probe. stable throughout. Could have mashed indefinitely.
 
Pre-heat the cooler with boiling, or very hot, water. You won't lose heat from your grains to warm the cooler.
Make sure the interior material of the cooler will with stand hot liquids.
 
Pre-heat the cooler with boiling, or very hot, water. You won't lose heat from your grains to warm the cooler.
Make sure the interior material of the cooler will with stand hot liquids.

Preheat is the way to go with a cooler, but I wouldn't preheat the plastic cooler with water above 180*
 
Make sure the interior material of the cooler will with stand hot liquids.

That's what I'm worried about lol. I'll have to do some research into what the cooler is made of. HDPE doesn't really start to melt until over 400F, and the ovens that heat it up to form it are usually 700F to 800F.
 
Before you spend money on that cooler which may not make any difference in your efficiency, try milling the grain twice. Efficiency problems is usually from a milling job that is poor. If you have your grains milled well most of the conversion will be done within 15 to 20 minutes and with the larger amount of water you can use with BIAB, your temperature will be pretty stable for that long.
 
Don't spend money on the cooler. Once you use your oven you'll never look back.

Also, I've been mashing for 30 minutes on my latest batches, all IPAs, IIPAs and sundry other pale ales. I hit or over shoot my OGs and attenuation is most often beyond what the yeast is rated for.
 

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