I want to get a 6.5 gallon glass carboy in addition to my 6.5 gallon plastic fermenter. I know I have to get a stopper and I already have an airlock. Obviously I need to get a few more 3 piece airlocks. Do I need to get a blow off tube if I plan to use the glass carboy as a primary?
Adding tap water is a chance for contamination. You should boil extra water ahead of time for top off if needed. You can even, if you know you're going to have about 3 gallons when done, put in about 2-2.5 gallons boiled ahead into your ferementer, but you can over or under shoot... best is to just have an extra 3-4 pre boiled and cooled waiting in say your bottling bucket etc to top off. That way you're sure its sanitary water.
Went to a local shop and picked up ingredients for an Oktoberfest beer. Not new to brewing, but was told to only cook (full boil) extract for a total of 30 minutes. This was after grains steeped for 30 minutes... Slightly concerned that I only went 30 minutes instead of the normal 60.....
Whatcha think?
Thanks Dave
Thanks to all the contributors. This site has been invaluable in planning my first brew.
Regarding primary vs secondary fermenters, I was planning to use the bucket with lock for primary (10 days or so I think) and then transfer to the glass carboy with lock for secondary. Is there any disadvantage to this? Also, I read a lot of people saying they just shook their carboy before pitching for aeration. Can I shake up my wort in the bucket in the same manner?
btw, I'm going to be brewing from an extract kit using some specialty grains and dry yeast. Thanks in advance!
Obviously new here and I had no idea you had to let your yeast soak for 15 minutes so I just pitched my yeast, that's a crappy term IMHO because you can pitch it when it's wet, but anyway is my beer going to be **** now because of this? It's my first batch rather hope it will be ok.
Obviously new here and I had no idea you had to let your yeast soak for 15 minutes so I just pitched my yeast, that's a crappy term IMHO because you can pitch it when it's wet, but anyway is my beer going to be **** now because of this? It's my first batch rather hope it will be ok.
I need a recipe that incorporates the use of pine, cinnamon, clove, and an excessive amount of hops.
Couldn't this sticky be updated to discuss, and encourage, late extract addition? I think point 4 is a little confusing.
4. Bring the water to a boil. Remove the boiling water from the stove, to avoid a boilover. Mix the malt extract into boiling water slowly and mix well (if you don't mix well you can get scorching of the extracts). Put back on heat and boil for the designated time (usually 60 minutes), watch closely to avoid a boilover so as to avoid a sticky mess. Also at this time add the bittering hops at the start of the boil w/ the malt(s).
Could be:
4. Bring the water to a boil. Once boiling turn off the heat. Add enough malt extract to bring your boil gravity up to 1.040 (4oz DME or 4.5oz LME per quart of water). Mix very well (if you don't you can get scorching of the extracts). Put heat back on and bring back to the boil. Once the boil begins add the bittering hops, and start your boil timer (usually 60 minutes).
I need a recipe that incorporates the use of pine, cinnamon, clove, and an excessive amount of hops.
Not sure I understand the distinction. Why is it confusing? You can and should boil the extract for the whole hour, why add some at the end. Maybe its a technique/process I've not heard of, but when I was doing extract I always boiled the entire amount of DME/LME for the whole hour. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?
Not sure I understand the distinction. Why is it confusing? You can and should boil the extract for the whole hour, why add some at the end. Maybe its a technique/process I've not heard of, but when I was doing extract I always boiled the entire amount of DME/LME for the whole hour. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?
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