Bayou Classic vs Tallboy for BIAB

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mythbustingpyro

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I have decided that I want to just go ahead and get a decent stainless kettle instead of the cheapest aluminum kettle I can find. I would really like to do BIAB for the simplicity of it, with no tun or extra sparging. I am between this 44 quart Bayou Classic (with a basket) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTLY1K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 or the 10 gal Tallboy kettle from Midwest http://www.midwestsupplies.com/tall-boy-brew-kettles.html. I'm assuming I can do 5 gallon batches in each of these, or at least 3 or 4 gallons. I'm considering the Tallboy because the email I just recieved informed me of the free Carboy with $150 purchase and I was already looking at recipe kit or ingredients for a batch.

So which would you go with and how essential is the basket.
As a side note, how do you convert recipes into BIAB? Just add everything at once?
 
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I looked at both bayou classics with and without the basket and I figured I didn't need the basket because I use a bag and the basket still had to be hoisted. Extra weight for me to worry about. I don't regret not getting it.

If you have more stuff to buy from Midwest then take advantage of the free offer. I think the megapot is nice but having never seen it in person I don't know how it'll be. I love my bayou classic for sure.
 
Just my opinion, I feel the Concord stainless kettles are worth a look...nice pot less money. They receive favorable feedback on the HBT.

I'm not a fan of baskets, but some folks love em?

I have the B/C 44 q w/ basket, nice pot / nothing special. One thing I don't like about the B/C is that the kettle is stamped embossed all over with logos and warnings, don't care for the look, and also makes thorough cleaning of the interior difficult to get build up out of the crevices of the embossing. JMO

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Pol...81734549?pt=Cookware&var=&hash=item20e50c2f95

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Sta...78763592?pt=Cookware&var=&hash=item20c11b9448


http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Hom...t=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item20e034e30a
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1410025938.593700.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1410025989.962812.jpg

Hmm, doesn't seem the BC you linked is as heavily embossed as mine????

That's a good thing.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
 
I have the exact BC kettle you linked to (44qt). Have been using it for about a year and have no complaints. Construction seems to be good. The only thing I've noticed is that the bottom of the kettle has a little bit of flex to it, like it's every so slightly bowed. I only notice it when I'm cleaning it and it doesn't effect the performance of the kettle. Overall, I've been very happy with it and have no regrets. I should mention that prior to purchasing the BC I was using a converted keggle, so I don't have much to compare it against.
 
I'd go with the Tallboy all the way. For BIAB, you'll definitely appreciate the 3-ply bottom.

Why would a 3 ply bottom matter? I bring water to strike temp, turn off the heat, mash, remove bag and squeeze, then turn heat back on for the boil. :confused:
 
Why would a 3 ply bottom matter? I bring water to strike temp, turn off the heat, mash, remove bag and squeeze, then turn heat back on for the boil. :confused:

You don't have an issue with scorching while heating? I don't, but my kettle has a clad bottom, so I've not had to give it much thought. I've seen posts/heard stories of scorched bags and having to put veggie steamers and the like in the bottom of the kettle or raising the bag while heating to keep the bag from touching the bottom while the burner is on. I assumed this was a real issue, but maybe not.
 
I'd go with the Tallboy all the way. For BIAB, you'll definitely appreciate the 3-ply bottom.


Why would a 3 ply bottom matter? I bring water to strike temp, turn off the heat, mash, remove bag and squeeze, then turn heat back on for the boil. :confused:

I would second the thick bottom. If you ever want to do step mashes, or a mash-out, you will appreciate the thicker bottom for the more even heat distribution. It will protect your bag, as well as minimize any kettle caramelization.
I have two recommendations to make in addition: first, go with aluminum. SS might be prettier, but you get better heat transfer with aluminum at a much lower cost. Second, go to a 15 or 20 gallon pot. You have much more flexibility to do higher gravity beers at full volume, and you can to larger batches should you want to.
 
I would add a big +1 to checking out aluminum. The pots are very inexpensive and honestly are way more sturdily built than SS. My 10Gal AL pot is 1/4 inch thick and honestly if I needed a car jack, I think it would do fine in a pinch. it is super heavy duty. SS is pretty and has great stain resistance properties but there really is no down side to AL. It works and it costs a bit less. If you are looking to BIAB, I'd highly recommend the AL pot. This is the one I haveand is $47 plus free shipping on amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Winware-Professional-Aluminum-40-Quart-Stockpot/dp/B001CHKL68/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1410050987&sr=8-3&keywords=10+gal+brew+kettle
 
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I have a 50qt concord and it is great. Very heavy duty. I think I paid around $85 shipped for it on ebay. I was looking at bayou classic as well, and am happy that I went with the concord.
 
I used a BC kettle with basket when I did BIAB. Never had any problems with hoisting the basket, never had any problems with scorching. Go with whichever is the better deal.
 
You don't have an issue with scorching while heating? I don't, but my kettle has a clad bottom, so I've not had to give it much thought. I've seen posts/heard stories of scorched bags and having to put veggie steamers and the like in the bottom of the kettle or raising the bag while heating to keep the bag from touching the bottom while the burner is on. I assumed this was a real issue, but maybe not.

I haven't had any scorching yet. Maybe I need a burner with higher output? I never add heat while the bag is in the pot. I could see possibilities if I were doing a step mash but I think then you would want the raise the bag off the bottom while heating as even a clad bottom would get hot enough to melt the bag where it touched. I never worry about a mash out because they are only needed for fly sparging. With BIAB, as soon as you pull the bag you can start heating the collected wort, effectively halting all enzyme action.
 
I do a lot of step mashes and ramp mashes. Anything with pilsner or a significant wheat or rye % in the grain bill will get a step mash. For Belgian styles, I'll often do a slow ramp mash. I don't know if it's really necessary or if it really makes my brew any better, but I do it since I can.

I don't normally do mashouts either, but I do with wheat and rye beers. Not to stop conversion, but to thin the wort to help with the lauter and to help offset the efficiency hit that wheat and rye seem to cause me.

I also dough-in against the conventional wisdom in that I add the grist to the mash while the water is heating, rather than after, so there is some time after the bag and grains have been added that the burner is still lit. I've done it both ways and I have found that I prefer bringing the mash up to the rest temp instead of overshooting the water temp and expecting the grain to bring it back down. I think I get more precise temp control doing it the way I do it, but I don't know. I guess we all have our little rituals.

I know some folks will insulate their kettle during the mash with a sleeping bag, pillows, an old parka, or something similar to keep the mash temp steady for the duration. I don't. I prefer to add heat as needed a couple or three times during the rest. As I heat, I stir and I think the stirring helps with efficiency, but I don't know if it really does. Again, rituals.

Last week I brewed a Belgian quad and I abandoned my usual efficiency-improving techniques to see if there was any difference. Well, it wasn't entirely on purpose. First, I forgot to pull out the sparge water before doughing in, so it became a no-sparge/full volume mash and then I decided to just let the sacc rest go for 60 minutes without adding heat/stirring at all. OG came out 8 points under estimate. Worst efficiency (73%) I've had in nearly 3 years of brewing. Not a big deal with a beer of this size, but I do think this confirmed for me that little rituals are not entirely in vain.

When I first started brewing I was worried about scorching the bag after reading posts where that has happened to others, so I used to put an aluminum pizza pan in the bottom of my kettle. It worked fine as I never had any scorching. That was also a time when I did a mashout with every brew, so there was significant exposure of the bag to heating that I was concerned about. Then, inevitably, one day I forgot the pizza pan. I didn't even think about it until after I had pulled the bag. But, even with my oversight, there was no scorching. In thinking about it, I attributed it to the 3-ply bottom in my kettle. I stopped using the pizza pan after that and have never had an issue with scorching even though adding direct heat to the mash is a regular aspect in some way or another of every single brew day. It's possible that even without a clad bottom I would not have had scorching. I really don't know, but I do know that with one I've not had to worry about it, so that has some value to me. I'll be upgrading to a larger kettle before too long. Cost is not really a concern for me. It could be $50 or it could be $400, I really don't care as long as I get what I want. My new kettle will have a clad bottom.

Wow, kind of a long post. Sorry about that. If you made it this far, thanks for hanging in there.
 
Clad bottom or not, I would suggest stirring any mash while heating.

Or get a FB, pump and pid, for me I like to just use a spoon and stir if I need to add heat....no clad bottom, no pump, no pic here, personal preference really.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
 
Baskets are nice if you recirculate. You need something to keep the bag from getting sucked into the outlet.
 
I think the basket would be handy for a couple of reasons, one would be to help prevent scorching the bag if more heat were needed, and the other would be to use a winch or something to lift a heavy bag full of wet grain.
 
Considering the aluminum pots now.... Is there a downside it too big a pot? Still undecided on a basket but its no lomger make or
break
 
I have a tall boy 10g pot. It is a killer pot. 5 gallon batches are not an issue for me(I brew mostly moderate gravity beers). I have noticed that since switching to a SS pot(from aluminum) Im getting much less scorching and that my color is better.
 
I have a tall boy 10g pot. It is a killer pot. 5 gallon batches are not an issue for me(I brew mostly moderate gravity beers). I have noticed that since switching to a SS pot(from aluminum) Im getting much less scorching and that my color is better.

I think your color is better because it is near the end of summer and you have developed a tan.....or did you mean that the beer color is closer to what you expected?:D
 
I have the Bayou 44 qt pot and basket. The basket keeps the bag off the bottom and the judicious use of 3 stainless 'S' hooks will support the basket/bag combo for draining as the heat is reapplied to bring things up to a boil.
 
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I am also in the market for a new kettle for biab. I will only be doing 5 gallon batches but would like to be able to do bigger beers IIPA, quads etc. What size would you recommend? Is a 44 qt enough?

Also curious with OP question: "As a side note, how do you convert recipes into BIAB? Just add everything at once?"
 
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I am also in the market for a new kettle for biab. I will only be doing 5 gallon batches but would like to be able to do bigger beers IIPA, quads etc. What size would you recommend? Is a 44 qt enough?

Also curious with OP question: "As a side note, how do you convert recipes into BIAB? Just add everything at once?"

You don't convert recipes for BIAB. You just know your equipment no matter what method you use for mashing, and calculate the grain bill based on your systems efficiency. IE..if a recipe calls for 80% efficiency and you know you only get 70%, you up the grain bill to increase your yield.

44Q will do for BIAB 5G batches. You could be maxing it out if you want to do a gigantic beer and a 90minute boil, but in the rare case you go over your capacity you can always use extract, or scale the recipe down a bit. I would say a 12.5G (50Q) pot would be ideal for 5G BIAB, but you can make it work with anything from 40Q to 60Q...
 
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I am also in the market for a new kettle for biab. I will only be doing 5 gallon batches but would like to be able to do bigger beers IIPA, quads etc. What size would you recommend? Is a 44 qt enough?

Also curious with OP question: "As a side note, how do you convert recipes into BIAB? Just add everything at once?"

I've managed a 1.072 OG batch in a 30 qt kettle. I would think if you are careful you could do some bigger beers in a 44 qt.

The only thing I've done to convert a recipe into a BIAB recipe is to increase the expected efficiency (reduce the base grains) since I have found that my efficiency is higher than most recipes are planned at. To get those higher efficiencies I mill my grain very fine.
 
So after much consideration, I am planning on going with an Aluminum 80qt bayou classic, with a basket for about $115. This way I can do 5 gal biab with no worries about gravity limitations and boil overs. And if I move to 10 gals I'll still be able to squeeze in.

Can a ball valve and other additions be made? If not, I can brew under my built in engine lift and use it to lift any if it.

Im also getting a burner from them, sp-10 I think, unless there is a better option.
 
So after much consideration, I am planning on going with an Aluminum 80qt bayou classic, with a basket for about $115. This way I can do 5 gal biab with no worries about gravity limitations and boil overs. And if I move to 10 gals I'll still be able to squeeze in.

Can a ball valve and other additions be made? If not, I can brew under my built in engine lift and use it to lift any if it.

Im also getting a burner from them, sp-10 I think, unless there is a better option.
I think that pot will give you a lot of flexibility for higher volume and higher gravity batches, and at a good price. Don't forget a lid.
Yes, you can add a weldless bulkhead and a ball valve with no problems.
I have a Camp Chef that has the same burner as the SP10, but I don't think it's be best option. The BG12 burner will give you more even heat distribution across the bottom of the kettle. I use the BG14 on all three of my vessels.
 
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