Ball lock keg supplies?

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Geneticjim

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Hey all I am wondering where do all of you get your kegs from? I've been looking locally and the only thing I can find are the commercial kegs. I am not going to make a kegerator but I can stick the keg into my secondary refrigerator. I bottled one time and it's a PITA! plus the extra 2 to 3 weeks of bottle conditioning. I am looking for a 5 to 7 gallon keg. Perhaps 2 of them
 
My original pair came from Midwest they were running a buy one get one sale.. I regret not getting more. Or getting more as they just keep going up in price for even reconditioned.

I'm also looking for a place that Won't ream me on price and then shipping as I'm doing a keezer build and need two more.
 
I got my original set up at kegconnection.com and then I bought a few more kegs here and there as I saw a good sale or price. Homebrewsupply.com has some sales that make kegs (even with shipping) pretty inexpensive compared to some of the local homebrew stores. Craigslist is a great bet for cheap kegs, but it's hit or miss.
 
I got some expensive Italian ones at first awhile back and they are excellent but expensive. I saw these go on sale like two years ago and took a chance and I was pleasantly surprised how good they were. I just got two more a few months ago again to add to my supply. I wait til they go on sale for $75.00 like they are now. They are good quality for the money. Here is the link: http://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-5-Gallon-Corny-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_5100.html

John
 
For a new setup to force carb and dispense. The 5lb aluminum C02 or a 10lb steel? I assume the ball lock kegs are more popular?


I went with a 10lb 5lb are pretty common for putting in kegerators. I'm lazy so didn't want to fill up more.

My basic set that I have was one ball lock (they are more popular but I couldn't tell you why. Ball lock kegs are narrower but taller. A dual double gauge regulator. Which can carb two kegs at two different pressures (I have yet to use that feature, but it'll be nice to have anyway for later). Also lets you just run a spare line for extra stuff.

A 5# will carb and dispense 10 or 12 5 gallon kegs. A 10# will do 20-24ish. Maybe slightly less as I use my co2 to also run cleaner through and sanitizer. I like my 10lb but for parties and stuff wish I had a 5. Can always pick that up later though.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1475887631.515562.jpg
My temporary setup till keezer is built. Notice the size of my 10# compared to the keg.

As far as options for you. Where do you plan to go with this?

The whole enchilada package at the bottom with that red 10lb seems like a good deal.
 
I started kegging recently and boy, do I wish I had done it a lot sooner. Anyway, is there any particular reason you want to use ball locks? I went with a used pin lock because they were on sale at Keg Connection for $34.95 at the time. They want $49.95 for one now, which isn't horrible but isn't the best price out there either. You can always find used ones for under $40, so if you want to save a few bucks don't hesitate to use pin locks instead of ball locks. The absence of a manual pressure relief valve is not an issue, since all you have to do is push on the poppet to bleed the gas. When you order a keg from Keg Connection, they send you a free plastic gizmo that you put on the gas poppet to bleed the pressure without using a sharp pointy thing.
 
I went with a 10lb 5lb are pretty common for putting in kegerators. I'm lazy so didn't want to fill up more.

My basic set that I have was one ball lock (they are more popular but I couldn't tell you why. Ball lock kegs are narrower but taller. A dual double gauge regulator. Which can carb two kegs at two different pressures (I have yet to use that feature, but it'll be nice to have anyway for later). Also lets you just run a spare line for extra stuff.

A 5# will carb and dispense 10 or 12 5 gallon kegs. A 10# will do 20-24ish. Maybe slightly less as I use my co2 to also run cleaner through and sanitizer. I like my 10lb but for parties and stuff wish I had a 5. Can always pick that up later though.

View attachment 372858
My temporary setup till keezer is built. Notice the size of my 10# compared to the keg.

As far as options for you. Where do you plan to go with this?

The whole enchilada package at the bottom with that red 10lb seems like a good deal.

I am pretty much wanting to go with your current setup. I don't want to drill into my spare fridge. I just don't feel like bottling 50+ bottles again lol. do you force carb?





I started kegging recently and boy, do I wish I had done it a lot sooner. Anyway, is there any particular reason you want to use ball locks? I went with a used pin lock because they were on sale at Keg Connection for $34.95 at the time. They want $49.95 for one now, which isn't horrible but isn't the best price out there either. You can always find used ones for under $40, so if you want to save a few bucks don't hesitate to use pin locks instead of ball locks. The absence of a manual pressure relief valve is not an issue, since all you have to do is push on the poppet to bleed the gas. When you order a keg from Keg Connection, they send you a free plastic gizmo that you put on the gas poppet to bleed the pressure without using a sharp pointy thing.

To be honest I see a lot of ball locks out there. I would assume parts are more available?
 
I am pretty much wanting to go with your current setup. I don't want to drill into my spare fridge. I just don't feel like bottling 50+ bottles again lol. do you force carb?







To be honest I see a lot of ball locks out there. I would assume parts are more available?


I set it at 10-12 psi and try it every few days. Force carb by what definition do you mean. It's all force carbonated if it's in a keg.
 
I set it at 10-12 psi and try it every few days. Force carb by what definition do you mean. It's all force carbonated if it's in a keg.

Oh I've read some people with kegs still use priming sugar and wait just like bottle conditioning. I would prefer to knock off a few weeks of waiting with using a keg and c02 setup to force carb.
 
Yeah usually after about 4 days or so for me it's mostly ready. 4 days at 12ish psi and 38*
 
Hey all I am wondering where do all of you get your kegs from? I've been looking locally and the only thing I can find are the commercial kegs. I am not going to make a kegerator but I can stick the keg into my secondary refrigerator. I bottled one time and it's a PITA! plus the extra 2 to 3 weeks of bottle conditioning. I am looking for a 5 to 7 gallon keg. Perhaps 2 of them
Hi. Since your profile doesn't say where you are, not sure what the shipping costs might be, but @IslandSoda has a lot of kegs and I think their price is $28 + shipping. There isn't a link to order them on their website, but I'm sure if you PM them, they'd respond. BTW, I agree with Gerry_P regarding pin locks. I went with all pin locks since they are pretty much foolproof when it comes to gas in and beer out connections, and parts are plentiful and easy to get. Ed
:mug:
 
Ritebrew.com has decent prices right now

Absolutely!


OP:

www.ritebrew.com always has great prices on kegging items!

www.homebrewing.org for kegs. Check out the "loose handle/bottom" used kegs. I've got 6 of them, and no issues. Only two were loose on the bottom. A little Gorilla Glue, and they were as good as new. Cheap shipping also.

Try and find a co2 tank local on craigslist.org . Don't buy a new one. Most places only exchange tanks, so your shiney new tank will be bye bye your first fill. Save the money and get a used one.

Taprite regulators are the best bang for the buck. Great quality, and I've heard their customer service is second to none. You can find new ones on ebay for good prices.

Buy your tubing on amazon. Use 3/16" ID tubing to control foaming. (Thanks IslandLizard for noticing my mistake)

Buy forward sealing faucets. Don't waste money on the cheap ones.

Just about anything made from stainless is worth the money, in regards to kegging equipment. (Except keg quick disconnects. They're a huge waste.)

MFL connections are your friend. Once installed, they make like easy.

***Also, keep an eye on the For Sale section on this website. There are great deals popping up all the time. Check a couple times a day, for it's a very active forum.***

The older used soda kegs are a high quality, and much more durable than the China/Italian kegs sold nowadays. Easy to rebuild, and will outlast these new knockoffs. The quality is in the details. I wouldn't buy any of the new kegs...
 
Speaking of kegging: I just used the shake and...drink? Idk...the shake and whatever method and had an acceptable level of carbonation for a bitter in under 24 hours. Unfortunately my beer is a saison, so it could use a little more CO2 absorption time. Fortunately it's a hoppy 4.8% saison so I'm drinking it anyway, but you see my point.

Pin lock parts: There doesn't seem to be a shortage of them, but I don't think you're going to have to worry about regularly replacing anything except the rubber o-rings and they are very easy to find.

Caveat: I wouldn't listen to me on the topic of pin vs ball locks. I'm one of the people who initially went with HD DVD instead of Blu Ray, and we all know what happened there.
 
I got my first keg from keg connection.com for my birthday last night! Wife surprised me knowing I'd been looking to get one just hadn't jumped the gun.

I got the Italian AEB ones and I gotta say they're are great quality! Pricey but I didn't want to get a dinged up previously used and filled with soda and what not. Would recommend based on quality, if price us an issue then definitely used elsewhere.
 
I like Adventures in hombrewing for my used kegs if my local LHBS does not have any at a reasonable price. i recently ordered some of their Converted shorty 5 gallon kegs (pinlock to corny) and they were 39.99, in great condtion. They come with an oring kit and all in all with the fast shipping, it's a great place.

BUT, support your LHBS if they can come anywhere near the same price.

If you are buying new, and want quality, as stated above, the italian ones are just amazing.
If you are buying new, and want a good price, the Morebeer Torpedo's are an excellent bargain. Good reviews and I have seen one in person, they are decent on the inside as well as the outside, downside is they will not look new for long. easily mark up.
 
Absolutely!


OP:

www.ritebrew.com always has great prices on kegging items!

www.homebrewing.org for kegs. Check out the "loose handle/bottom" used kegs. I've got 6 of them, and no issues. Only two were loose on the bottom. A little Gorilla Glue, and they were as good as new. Cheap shipping also.

Try and find a co2 tank local on craigslist.org . Don't buy a new one. Most places only exchange tanks, so your shiney new tank will be bye bye your first fill. Save the money and get a used one.

Taprite regulators are the best bang for the buck. Great quality, and I've heard their customer service is second to none. You can find new ones on ebay for good prices.

Buy your tubing on amazon. Use 3/8" ID tubing to control foaming.

Buy forward sealing faucets. Don't waste money on the cheap ones.

Just about anything made from stainless is worth the money, in regards to kegging equipment. (Except keg quick disconnects. They're a huge waste.)

MFL connections are your friend. Once installed, they make like easy.

***Also, keep an eye on the For Sale section on this website. There are great deals popping up all the time. Check a couple times a day, for it's a very active forum.***

The older used soda kegs are a high quality, and much more durable than the China/Italian kegs sold nowadays. Easy to rebuild, and will outlast these new knockoffs. The quality is in the details. I wouldn't buy any of the new kegs...

I think you meant 3/16" ID tubing...

Or use 3/16" (0.2" actually) Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra tubing with the John Guest fittings. You'd need about 15-20' of that per tap. Again Ritebrew or Birdmanbrewing.
 
Get at least 12' of 3/16" beverage tubing, per line (in one piece), not matter what the seller tells you. Trust me on that! They often come with 5' of line, which will give you headaches.

About c02 tanks, before you get one you need to decide how you will refill. I used to have a 10# tank and a 5# tank, and there was a place 50 miles away that would refill them. Once they stopped, I found a local place less than 5 miles away that would only swap, not refill. And they do not carry 10# tanks at all! So I had to get a new tank, since my 10# couldn't be refilled or swapped. The place I deal with has a few 5# tanks but not on hand always, and has tons of 20# tanks. So I have 3 5-pounders for spares and in case he doesn't have one when I need one, and 1 20-pound tank.

In South Texas where I am in the winter, NO ONE will refill the tank- they only swap them out.

So I'd contact a local welding/gas supply shop and see what your options are there before buying a tank.
 

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