Attempted my first full volume mash last night

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Jim311

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I've been doing BIAB in a cooler using about 4 gallons of water for around 12 pounds of grain on most of my brews. But last night I decided to give a full volume mash a shot, and just do it in my keggle, there was plenty of space. With my cooler, I heat my strike water to 168 degrees, and the grain and cooler almost immediately eat 12 degrees of heat, leaving me at about where I need to mash my IPAs, around 154-146ish for the majority of the mash. So last night I heated my strike water, 7.8 gallons of it to around 168 degrees, then tossed my grain bag in there. The first thing I noticed is that I did NOT lose 10 degrees immediately. One thing I had not accounted for was that I had much more water now, which obviously helped it lose less heat once I doughed in. First mistake. It was a cold night (For Florida) and I figured I'd lose that temperature quickly, but I ended up mashing fairly high for the majority of the 1 hour mash, probably around 160. Anyway the rest of the process was more or less uneventful. My OG worked out to be 1.058 instead of 1.064 the recipe called for, so my efficiency was definitely lower than usual, as I normally exceed what my recipes from the local shop call for. But it was damn easy, with no extra cleanup, no sparge, and was less temperature loss than I expected. I think I may refine this technique in the future, assuming it doesn't make for a terrible beer. I'm interested to see how the high mash temp correlates to mouthfeel and body once this ferments up. While I was mashing and boiling I had plenty of time to read this forum, and there was plenty of information (as usual) on both sides of the spectrum on why you should or shouldn't do it. Think this beer will suck? :mug:
 
I've started doing full volume mash myself with BIAB (sparging takes too long). I wind up getting better efficiency doing full volume (70% instead of mid-60s). You are correct that you need to adjust your strike temp due to the larger volume of water. I use the Priceless BIAB calculator to dial this in.

http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/
 
While I guess it sorta sucks that I imagine this beer will end up a little low in terms of ABV since I missed my gravity number AND mashed hot, at least it will taste good :)
 
I've started doing full volume mash myself with BIAB (sparging takes too long). I wind up getting better efficiency doing full volume (70% instead of mid-60s). You are correct that you need to adjust your strike temp due to the larger volume of water. I use the Priceless BIAB calculator to dial this in.

http://pricelessbrewing.github.io/BiabCalc/


That's a cool calculator, thanks.
 
You can always hit it with Amylaze in the fermentor if you think that you didn't get a good enough conversion. Also reconsider how well you drain the grains as well, that could be a factor in missing your target OG. I squeeze the crap out of my bag to ensure I get the most out of it.

Also, if you're able to suspend the grains above the kettle, you can also rinse some extra sugars out of it before you drain/squeeze.
 
Agreed with wilser, and thanks for the plug guys. If anyone has any questions, comments, suggestions feedback, ideas, let me know :)
 
It took me 12 years of batch sparging to figure out life could be simpler. I finally built a 2-vessel eHERMS and will never look back. 1 heating element and a simple controller for all the benefits of a much more complex system.

You will not be disappointed in the extra few pounds of malt you need to use. Small price for the elegant simplicity.
 
You can always hit it with Amylaze in the fermentor if you think that you didn't get a good enough conversion. Also reconsider how well you drain the grains as well, that could be a factor in missing your target OG. I squeeze the crap out of my bag to ensure I get the most out of it.

Also, if you're able to suspend the grains above the kettle, you can also rinse some extra sugars out of it before you drain/squeeze.


In my previous cooler batches I have been mashing in like 4 gallons and then bringing some sparge water up to 170. I drain the cooler, then pour in the sparge water and mix the grains up and wait a minute, then drain the cooler again into the kettle. Then I let the grain back sit on a rack above the cooler, dripping all the goodness outta there. Then I squeeze the grain bag into the kettle to get the residual but I don't really go nuts with it. A good squeeze or two, then I toss the grains and start boiling. It's worked well and I've met my efficiency numbers or even exceeded them up until this most recent batch. I'll need to refine my process a bit I suppose to get better efficiency.
 
While I guess it sorta sucks that I imagine this beer will end up a little low in terms of ABV since I missed my gravity number AND mashed hot, at least it will taste good :)


Sorta sucks? I thought I gave you good news lol. If ABV is your priority dump a pound of sugar at high kreusen.

A cup may not be a bad idea lol.
 
@pricelessbrewing, I think your calculator is excellent and it's helped me immensely. I've gotten to where it takes me all of 30 seconds to fill it out, and about the only suggestion I may have is for it to save some of my settings so it would take me 28 seconds instead. :D
 
@pricelessbrewing, I think your calculator is excellent and it's helped me immensely. I've gotten to where it takes me all of 30 seconds to fill it out, and about the only suggestion I may have is for it to save some of my settings so it would take me 28 seconds instead. :D

haha I feel you. It's on the to do list :rockin:
 
Sorta sucks? I thought I gave you good news lol. If ABV is your priority dump a pound of sugar at high kreusen.

A cup may not be a bad idea lol.


It's not a big priority, but the recipe called for a 6.5% beer. I imagine it will still be well into 5.5ish territory or more anyway but I guess that will depend on how well that US05 performs :)
 
It's not a big priority, but the recipe called for a 6.5% beer. I imagine it will still be well into 5.5ish territory or more anyway but I guess that will depend on how well that US05 performs :)

Even if it doesn't turn out how you pictured it in your mind or on recipe, always remember, it's still beer. It's never a complete loss unless it's undrinkable. If the ABV ends up lower then have two. :mug:

I'd drink the batch once complete and evaluate where you want to go next with the recipe and continue tweaking your process. It can only get better from there.
 
Oh you can rest assured, it will be drank unless it's infected. I'm still working my way through the last batch of a failed APA that came out with really low gravity due to overestimating my boil off and grain absorption. It's still better than having a Bud Light, but these 4 percent beers seem weird to drink now that I've mostly been drinking stuff closer to 6 or more percent!
 
Surprised we're at two pages and the suggestion to crush the grains finer hasn't come up. Crushing finer helps get the numbers up some when doing BIAB. I've found that I have to be careful with the amount of water used as well. I usually use slightly less than what the calculators come up with. I also use a refractometer to check the gravity near the end of the boil to make sure I'm close to where I want to be.
 
Surprised we're at two pages and the suggestion to crush the grains finer hasn't come up. Crushing finer helps get the numbers up some when doing BIAB.


Yeah I agree. I triple crush my grain, for reference. My local HBS doesn't like people messing with the gap, but running it through three times gets a pretty fine crush.
 
I don't have a crusher but maybe I will ask them to crush finer on my next batch. The crush and efficiency hasn't been a issue until now.
 
@Jim311 - I brew indoors at full volume (as long as I am targeting 5G or less into the fermentor) and I find - as you did - that it is easy to overshoot your target mash temp. I tend to heat to 2 to 4 degrees (F) above target. I rarely need to add heat over 60 to 90 minutes. Of course, I have the controlled indoor temp as well as the higher H2O volume to maintain heat. 3 things that I would add to the notes above. 1) perhaps crush finer as noted, but going to 90 minute mash may get you the same results. I often baby the mash for 60 (monitor temp and stir at 20, 40 and 60), then I go run an errand. I am never in a hurry when I brew. 2) squeezing the bag (IME) does not add gravity points as much as it gets you more wort and therefore more beer. More beer is good! 3) if you squeeze and sparge, you can use cool water. It need not be 168 or 170. The benefit is that cool water cools the bag and squeezing a cool bag is easier than squeezing a 150 degree bag. Again, it's more wort versus more points. But really, if you can just suspend the bag for 20 minutes you will get almost what you get from squeezing anyway, Just my experience .. as always YMMV

Oh yeah - 3a) you can sparge without squeezing. Drain the hot bag for just 5 min or so, dunk in cool water and stir, and drain that bag while your main wort comes up to boil temp.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking it was a solid lesson learned and one that should have been obvious. More volume = less loss of temperature due to the grain. I'm thinking you're right that 2 or 4 degrees above is perfectly fine, and I can always add a bit of heat if necessary. I hadn't thought about reserving a gallon or so of cold water to sparge with.. that would definitely allow me to squeeze the bag easier, and also help me lower the overall volume of the mash somewhat, so I might do that. Thanks for that suggestion.
 
I don't have a crusher but maybe I will ask them to crush finer on my next batch. The crush and efficiency hasn't been a issue until now.

I use a blender to 'crush' my grains for full volume BIAB. I use a voile bag that I made which has a very fine weave (same material as wilser's bags).

I turn the grain to damn-near flour .5# at a time. It's a good option for BIABers that don't own a mill.
 
I use a blender to 'crush' my grains for full volume BIAB. I use a voile bag that I made which has a very fine weave (same material as wilser's bags).

I turn the grain to damn-near flour .5# at a time. It's a good option for BIABers that don't own a mill.

I'd thought about that, maybe I'll give it a try and see how my efficiency is. If I was meeting my numbers before, I wonder if I won't skyrocket them after that :mug:
 
I'd thought about that, maybe I'll give it a try and see how my efficiency is. If I was meeting my numbers before, I wonder if I won't skyrocket them after that :mug:

I generally hit 80-82% efficiency with blender crush, full volume mash and pH 5.2 - 5.3.
 
I use a blender to 'crush' my grains for full volume BIAB. I use a voile bag that I made which has a very fine weave (same material as wilser's bags).

I turn the grain to damn-near flour .5# at a time. It's a good option for BIABers that don't own a mill.

I did that the other day because I forgot to mill some of my specialty grains. Was a huge pain in the but, made a ton of dust, and probably will kill a blender prematurely. Don't recommend. A corona costs as much as a cheap blender, and will last a lot longer.
 
I did that the other day because I forgot to mill some of my specialty grains. Was a huge pain in the but, made a ton of dust, and probably will kill a blender prematurely. Don't recommend. A corona costs as much as a cheap blender, and will last a lot longer.

Maybe. Been at it for over a year, probably have close to 200# of grain through it. Seems to be holding up fine. Lots of people have blenders, if they're in a bind or simply don't want to purchase a mill, a blender will work fine.

If you're using some $200 fancy blender, no... Probably wouldn't recommend it.

My $20 dollar wedding gift from 4 years ago? Absolutely.
 
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