2 packs 1.07 wort
If that was 5 gallons it sounds right.
2 packs 1.07 wort
This is completely dependent on the taste buds of the consumer. For some 3 pounds will be good, for others it won’t be enough. What kind of purée are you using and when do you plan on adding it? Lots of variables come into play here. There is no simple answer.Yesterday, we pitched 4 packs in 11.5 gallons of a Berliner Weisse brew at 1.043 SG. We are fermenting at 74F, but don't have much movement now, 22 hours in. The Tilt only shows dropping 0.001 points.
Used 50% Briess 2-row and 50% white wheat malt. Mashed at 148F for 90 minutes. Added 1 oz. of Hallertau at 60 mins.
We're excited to see how it turns out. We plan to split the batch and add 3 lbs. of peach puree to one half and 3 lbs. of tart cherry puree to the other. Will 3 lbs. per 5 gals. be enough fruit?
Crossmyloof are now selling a CML Sour 3.5 which looks like it is the same as the AEB FERMO Brew Acid, based on the way that they both mangle the species name of Lachancea thermotolerans in similar if not the same way. It's not clear if it's a rebadged version of Philly Sour or an unpatented strain of L. thermotolerans.
As an aside @dmtaylor, that misspelling is a pretty conclusive link between CML and AEB, which may apply to AEB's other yeasts, which include a bunch of hybrids claimed to produce specific aromas.
If I or the average American can't get this stuff at our LHBS... well I guess I'm somewhat of an ignorant ass. For now, anyway.
We’re using Vintner’s Harvest canned purées and adding them in secondary for a week before kegging.This is completely dependent on the taste buds of the consumer. For some 3 pounds will be good, for others it won’t be enough. What kind of purée are you using and when do you plan on adding it? Lots of variables come into play here. There is no simple answer.
We’re using Vintner’s Harvest canned purées and adding them in secondary for a week before kegging.
Follow-up: just tried this beer, which has been marinating in a glass carboy for almost two months now for Brett maturation.Tried a near co-fermentation with the Omega All the Bretts, pitching the later about 48-hours after pitching 2 packets of Philly Sour into a 1.047 OG wort. I also added 3.3lb of blueberry puree near the end of the primary. The resulting souring character is definitely more complex than just with Philly Sour, and no negatives so far--Philly Sour and All the Bretts seem to work well together. It's very drinkable now, but I am letting is age in a glass carboy for a few months to see if further conditioning helps the 'funkiness' develop more (and to time the keg with my daughter's visit in July--she loves sour beer).
Haha we’ve been lazy and the full 10 gal batch is still cold crashing in the fermenter. Thinking of adding the purée today. Now not sure if I’ll add the purée to the kegs and rack on top of it or add it to a secondary.I plan to buy some purees too, to use 1kg for 1keg batch, how did your beer turn out, both of them?
You can do whatever hops you want, its as tolerant as Sacc as its not bacteria.I'm planning on using the lallemand philly sour yeast to make a sour ipa ( for the challenge ) got some for bargain basement price .
Any special water adjustments for this kind of thing ? I assume open ferment and it says reasonably tolerant of hops. My recipe is all whirlpool hops.
Temperature says between 20 and 27 is it fruitier at the higher end? I was thinking of a balanced mash to provide a good bit of glucose to kick it all off
so 62 for half an hour then raise to 69 for half an hour and then mash out at 76.
Grains are maris otter, pilsner, wheat and acidulated malt.
Wondering if I can substitute lactic acid for the acidulated malt and just add some more grain?
My first planned sour beer so any advice, not too late for me to abandon the plan.
Aim for the normal 5.2-5.4@ThatVideoKid
Thanks for the update unless I can get some sourgrapes malt today I'll just add some Lactic acid. What pH should I be aiming for? I normally get my mashes around 5.3 with grains / additions. Should I be aiming lower for this yeast?
Or would I actually be better getting the mash pH ideal and then lowering the pH for the boil or in the fermenter with some lactic acid?
Im about a year or two behind this Philly Sour craze. It wasn’t until I listened to a pod cast featuring the professor who facilitated finding, propagating then commercializing it that I realized how fun using it could be. For those who have a few batches under their belts, mind criticizing my recipe?
I plan to brew 10gal and split into two 5gal batches. One will get the dry hops and no mango. The other will get no dry hops and a bunch of mango.
My only question is: why use Philly sour if you’re going to add bottle dregs? If I was to do it, I’d just go brett so I don’t have to deal with the potential for the very long aging time pedio often needs.tomorrow doing a red philly sour, based on the recipe posted from mike mad fermentationist.
will use first philly sour and then some bottle dregs.
some opinion about look for brett lacto pedio and more? or look just brett ?
my question is because lacto and pedio from dregs will maybe increase the sourness of the final beer, and only brett will help for a more complex beer.
someone try something like that¡?
My only question is: why use Philly sour if you’re going to add bottle dregs? If I was to do it, I’d just go brett so I don’t have to deal with the potential for the very long aging time pedio often needs.
My only question is: why use Philly sour if you’re going to add bottle dregs? If I was to do it, I’d just go brett so I don’t have to deal with the potential for the very long aging time pedio often needs.
If quick is your goal, only use dregs will brett with your Philly sour. Brett can taste good quickly. Pedio sometimes can, but other times it’ll be a diacetyl Bomb or get ropey and require a year+ to be drinkable.my idea is to do a relatively quick sour, but looking for more complexity that with philly sour is difficult to get. apart from that, here in argentina is not common to find fresh bottles of unpasteurized sour beers. i think that not fresh dregs will not be enough to ferment a 5 gallons batch. maybe i am wrong and every post is very helpful for me-
i am not in a hurry but i want to try with the speed of philly sour to acidify and look for some complexity with brett. with another batch (safale be 134 saison with femme fatale evil twins dreg) have a good experience, 4 months on secundary and improve good flavors.If quick is your goal, only use dregs will brett with your Philly sour. Brett can taste good quickly. Pedio sometimes can, but other times it’ll be a diacetyl Bomb or get ropey and require a year+ to be drinkable.
I'd say give it time and see how it goes. It might be fine, and (as long as you have good sanitation and there aren't any other bugs in there) it's unlikely to get any worse. You can always pitch more yeast later.. . . Should I wait and see? . . .
Anyone has experience with tolerance to heat (pitching too hot) on Philly Sour? My brewing buddy thought it was lactobacillus and pitched at 90°F (32°c)...
Remember that although we typically ferment Saccharomyces at 15-20°C, that's only to reduce off-flavours. It actually grows best at around 30°C, and can survive up to 40°C or so, although it varies from strain to strain. So there's a big difference between recommended fermentation temperatures and what a yeast can survive, particularly for a short while. Remember that in the wild, they have to survive the summer on a grapevine or fruit tree which in the Mediterranean might go up to 40°C, whilst waiting for the cooler temperatures of autumn when the fruit is ripe.
So don't assume that pitching warm will kill everything. On the other hand, Lachancea is generally a cold-adapted genus, there's a reason that the species used for brewing is L. thermotolerans!!! So if the recommendation is to ferment it at 20°C then it should survive 30-35°C for short periods but I would get nervous above that, or that temperature for prolonged amounts of time, you may get off-flavours or funny behaviour like not producing acid, or producing lots of acid.
Anyway, it sounds like it's worked for you, just thought it was worth noting the above for future reference.
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