No, the hose, clamps, pump, perforated plate and discharge tube are what comprise the recirculation kit. All things considered, the Anvil pump is not bad.Does it come with a pipe/hose when you do not order the recirculation kit?
No, the hose, clamps, pump, perforated plate and discharge tube are what comprise the recirculation kit. All things considered, the Anvil pump is not bad.Does it come with a pipe/hose when you do not order the recirculation kit?
Thanks, I think I'm going to go with the aftermarket SS pump with parts from brewhardware anyway.No, the hose, clamps, pump, perforated plate and discharge tube are what comprise the recirculation kit. All things considered, the Anvil pump is not bad.
The dolly is a good idea but I like to keep the Foundry at a height that I can put a bucket or carboy directly underneath the valve, as I don’t pump the wort. The height of a bench is enough. Has anyone seen suitable carts for this?Yeah I'll probably hang on to my traditional equipment as I may end up using it again in the future, you never know.
I plan to eventually get a 240v outlet installed in my garage and then hopefully will be able to run a 20-25ft or so extension cord to make it to my upstairs kitchen for brew day. I ordered the 10g Anvil with only the swirly arm - I plan to buy a brew pump with SS head off of Amazon and get the remaining hardware pieces from brewhardware.com, still trying to figure out what I need specifically. I think I need the below:
- Mash Recirculation Return For Anvil Foundry System
- Camlock fittings for all components - not sure if I should instead use QD fittings. Thoughts?
- Silicone tubing
- Considering picking up this dolly to permanently install the pump to and also as a stand for the Anvil
- Brew bag - can anyone help me out with a good one for the 10.5g?
Can I use a ball-valve to control the pump flow, or do I need some kind of clips for the silicone tubing?
Anything I am missing?
Thanks
Both work. Many - myself now included - find the bag more convenient. Finer crush with less risk of a stuck sparge, no need to use rice hulls, easy to manage, easy to clean. Higher efficiency, if done properly, and I think you can do a larger grain bill. You can squeeze the bag to the last drop (another contentious topic) Some place the bag inside the basket, to avoid scorching the mash against the heating element. Not necessary if you are careful. The pulley, however, is a must, if not using the basket.What is the advantage of using a bag instead of grain basket in this setup? Does a bag allow just a finer crush?
Why not use a pump? Doesn't having the unit higher make it harder to pull the basket out?The dolly is a good idea but I like to keep the Foundry at a height that I can put a bucket or carboy directly underneath the valve, as I don’t pump the wort. The height of a bench is enough. Has anyone seen suitable carts for this?
Does it come with a pipe/hose when you do not order the recirculation kit?
Going to go this route I think, along with aftermarket pumpWoah, good question. I thought the answer was yes, but looking at their pictures, perhaps not. Sorry for thinking it was such an obvious choice to just use it.
Foundry™ Boiler Lid Tube <--They do sell them separately.
I like to keep it simple. For a 5-6 gal. brew, I don't think I need to pump wort if gravity can do the job. Also, I use a bag on a pulley. No problem lifting.Why not use a pump? Doesn't having the unit higher make it harder to pull the basket out?
Two other aspects come to mind--1. allows for a larger grain load, translating to a higher starting gravity, 2. avoids the "dead space" between the malt pipe and the side wall. On the other hand, it is a bit harder to clean.What is the advantage of using a bag instead of grain basket in this setup? Does a bag allow just a finer crush?
Ah, true I was forgetting the bag comes out before boil. How does everyone avoid snags and getting caught on the dip tube?The bottom of the unit is not going to get hot enough to damage the bag at mash temperatures. The only and best reason for getting the bag off the bottom is not to snag the bag on the temp probe and/or dip tube.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1B1YJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1How does everyone avoid snags and getting caught on the dip tube?
Ah, true I was forgetting the bag comes out before boil. How does everyone avoid snags and getting caught on the dip tube?The bottom of the unit is not going to get hot enough to damage the bag at mash temperatures. The only and best reason for getting the bag off the bottom is not to snag the bag on the temp probe and/or dip tube.
Copy. Thanks buddyhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1B1YJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I feel like the price has doubled. Probably noticed us all buying them.
I hadnt seen this false bottom. I like it because it allows better flow than my brewzilla false bottom I've been using for probably about 50 brews now. How does it hold up? It says its stainless steel but just wanted to check on how it holds up. ALso, based on the leg position, I imagine the legs are positioned outside of the element ring? My brewzilla false bottom legs are actually ON the element ring. Lastly, even though it says its 2" in height, does it cleanly clear the dip tube height?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G1B1YJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I feel like the price has doubled. Probably noticed us all buying them.
I take mine out prior to boil. But the brewzilla FB doesn't have as good of openings as the other one posted here does. I use SS wire used in marine applications (from harbor freight). I have wire on two sides of it that run up the sides of the kettle and attach to the handles on the outside. So once I lift my bag for dripping, its easy to remove the FB.11.6 is what I use.
If you're getting ahead, think of something to help fish it out of the wort when you're done, before boiling. I suppose it can stay in but I don't leave it. I have a skinny copper dowel I bent the end of into a j shape. Drops down in between the grill openings and catches a wire on the way back up.
I got mine from LHBS, but I would be shocked if brewhardware does not have them.It doesn't look like brewhardware has them. I am looking to use camlock QDs on everything, and for the kettle ball valve I want a camlock male nipple. Where did you guys find the adapter and/or fitting with this thread?
Is this it?
TAISHER 2PCS Forging of 304 Stainless Steel Fitting, Reducer Adapter, 1/2" NPT Male x 1/2" G Thread (BSP) Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ6LQ3V6?ref_=cm_sw_r_apann_dp_Q72FXGSV9J6QH55X3TQ4
My Foundry arrives today and I was trying to get everything ordered in advance without buying the wrong parts. Thanks for confirming, chief.no--you have an Anvil, correct? The Anvil spigot has a 1/2 G male end, so you need a G female to NPT male adapter. I posted in your other thread a link to a provider, but the one from tracer_bullet works too.
I see that it's RyPA who found the right fitting, VERIFIED by tracer_bullet. Then questioned by RyPA and then reverified by Grizwold1, then . . . .
Yeah the swirly arm and ball valve have the same exact connections and nipple -- both with the nipple having the rubber gasket attached. I ordered all of my camlock fittings from brewhardware, I should have this fully up and running by next weekendUgh, every thing always seems to have to be different. That could be straight thread, I don't mean that it can't be, just not usually. For ball valves anyhow. Anvil may have kept the straight thread on all its stuff for consistency.
When you said ball valve, this came to mind, it's NPT: Brew Kettle Drain Valve and Mounting Hardware
Excited for ya man! Let us know how the virgin brewday goes on this system!Yeah the swirly arm and ball valve have the same exact connections and nipple -- both with the nipple having the rubber gasket attached. I ordered all of my camlock fittings from brewhardware, I should have this fully up and running by next weekend
Note the line stating that it does not fit the Foundry. Why the different threading was used, who knows? I could not even get an NPT fitting to start, let alone thread all the way on. Thinking a little bit more on this, my guess is that the Foundry line is sourced differently than the rest of the Anvil products?When you said ball valve, this came to mind, it's NPT: Brew Kettle Drain Valve and Mounting Hardware
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