I'll try to help.
So what kind of kegerator are you using? What about the shanks? Where is the kegerator located and ambient temp?
The kegerator temp is 40°, you should consult a table in a book or online to arrive at the appropriate PSI to set your regulator at for the desired volumes of CO2 you want.
There are ways to calculate the loss of the PSI through the tubing and to the faucet. 3/16" tubing will require the shortest length to achieve this pressure drop. You can probably find this searching google. Some folks say that the center of the keg to the height of tap must also be taken into consideration, and that the faucet can restrict up to 1 psi, but has been my experience, that faucets do not restrict this much, and unless your keg is on a different floor that the taps, the heigh issue is usually negligible.
This leaves the tubing length. You need more tubing it seems. I'd start by doing the calculations for how May psi are dropped per foot of tubing, and then apply a fudge factor, because I've never found those calculations to be precisely accurate, and add several feet to that number. Install with temporary fittings, pour, and test, then trim the tubing down until you achieve the desired pour and foam then use the permanent clamps or whatever.
Some kegerators (keezers) have air flow issues, and the shanks and lines can get warm, causing the first pour foam phenomenon. Use longer shanks if you can as well. Those are sort of like heat sinks. Knowing more about your specific situation I could give more guidance.
I'm assuming that you didn't just haul that keg home and slap it in the fridge. Commercial beer especially if often not kept at proper serving temps, and by the time you get it home it's much warmer. It'll take time to get that keg and the beer inside down to temp.
Good luck
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