AG to sort of BIAB

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MindenMan

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At the suggestion of a Senior member to document this idea, here it is.
I did an AG using a brewing bag, okay, they were paint strainers, the reason I tried this method, was to save myself from lifting nearly full, very heavy pots.
I brought my mash water to temp like usual, but inserted the empty filters, (one inside the other) added my grain stirred like crazy, insulated the pot, and set my timer. I built a "Zapap" tun a long time ago, and still have not bought any type of insulated cooler. I pulled the bag out of my BK, set it into my Zapap tun, and poured the mash water over it, gave it a good stir, and drained off the first runnings. I poured 4 gallons of strike water on the grain, gave it a stir, and let it rest for 15 minutes. I then put the second runnings in with the first, and cranked up the heat. Since none of my BK's have valves, and lifting heavy pots is not for me anymore, this was my answer I thought. The bag idea came to mind when I was getting splashed with hot wort going into my Zapap tun my last brew day.
Now that I write this, I see something I didn't notice before; A "regular" AG brewer would have already had their Mash tub/cooler preheated, put in the grain followed by the mash water, and walked away for 60 minutes or so, then vorlaufed, then sparged, and fired up their BK.
So then, what did I gain by changing up my regular method?
1) I got 15+ pounds out of my BK before I lifted it Phew!:)
2) I didn't worry about recirculating the wort until the wort was basically clear and setting the grain bed, saving me at least 20 minutes.
3) I usually fly sparge, and having to keep the sparge water heated is somewhat of a pain. Once again, saving time, almost 60 minutes.
4) Just because **** happens during my brewing day, the "perfect" day for me never happens, as yesterday's brew day is a good example.
The short version is, I started at 10:30 am, and at 10:00 pm, I began to chill my wort. Shortcuts or not, this is typical of my brew days.
My efficiencies are always good, and I wondered if my "new" method would cost me gravity points or not. My predicted O.G. was 1.064, and my actual was 1.066. No more fly sparging for me. I hope this post helps someone that hates fly sparging as much as I do.:rockin:
 
I'm a temporary convert to BIAB.

I'm extremely slowly building a three vessel HERMS. The first step was a keggle with BIAB because I have gotten tired lifting and pouring water into my MLT for step mashes.

This way, if I want to step mash, I pull the bag, fire up the burner to reach the new temp and drop the bag back in. The bag is clipped to a rope, so I'm pulling it up with my shoulders... much easier on the back.

I no sparged mine and got the same efficiency I would get no sparging in my MLT.

My next step is to get a valve installed and try some manual recirculation so I can make sure the mash temp is more uniform and maybe get better efficiency.


But an 11.5 hour brew day seems awfully brutal for one beer.
 
Yes, it was along day... My best brew and bottle days, are when my wife is at work, and my kid is in school, so they don't keep distracting me. I cannot ever remember a 4 or 5 hour brew day. My next batch will be on a day I don't have to shop, cook, drop off the kid at school, pick up the kid from school, or answer the phone.
 
I'm a temporary convert to BIAB.

I'm extremely slowly building a three vessel HERMS. The first step was a keggle with BIAB because I have gotten tired lifting and pouring water into my MLT for step mashes.

This way, if I want to step mash, I pull the bag, fire up the burner to reach the new temp and drop the bag back in. The bag is clipped to a rope, so I'm pulling it up with my shoulders... much easier on the back.

I no sparged mine and got the same efficiency I would get no sparging in my MLT.

My next step is to get a valve installed and try some manual recirculation so I can make sure the mash temp is more uniform and maybe get better efficiency.


But an 11.5 hour brew day seems awfully brutal for one beer.

Before you install that valve and do the recirculation, I have a suggestion. Try a very fine crush and cut your mash time to 20 minutes. With that shorter mash time, your temperature loss should be pretty minimal, especially if you use full volume of water, no sparge. Check your conversion with iodine if you want and compare the efficiency with your current method.
 
I have thought about doing a double crush. I'm not sold on it yet.

Maybe because it was a 95F day with no wind, but it didn't seem like my heat loss was huge. It seemed more like the mash was thermally stratified from moment I doughed in with lots of hot and cold pockets. Stirring helped, but didn't fix it.
 
I have thought about doing a double crush. I'm not sold on it yet.

Maybe because it was a 95F day with no wind, but it didn't seem like my heat loss was huge. It seemed more like the mash was thermally stratified from moment I doughed in with lots of hot and cold pockets. Stirring helped, but didn't fix it.

How about doing a triple crush instead?:D Many of us have found that the biggest impact on efficiency is the crush and with BIAB you can get that grain milled really fine without causing problems.

If you had hot and cold pockets after stirring you didn't stir well enough. With BIAB and no sparge your mash should have been plenty liquid to stir easily.
 

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