advise on my own recipe

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alex510

alex510

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I have my brewing equipment (all used) together now and I am getting close to brewing. I am going to order these ingredients this weekend. I will be brewing 5 gallons. Am I missing anything?
10# pilsen extra light extract
2oz pellet cascade all hops are pellets
1oz Simcoe
1oz Columbus
2oz simcoe@flam out
1oz centennial
5lb sugar.
I guess I will use an IPA yeast.
ps. my favourite beer is Pliny
thank you in advance
 

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I'm guessing this is your first batch? Hoppy beers can have more oxidation problems than lower hopped beers. If you haven't brewed/bottled before, maybe brew a simple brown ale? Also, if you can make tea in a tea bag, you can all grain brew with BIAB, check out some you tube videos.
 
Not my first batch. But it's been over 20 years since my last batch. Thank you for the oxidation tip. 😊
 
I haven't done any calculations of your recipe but 5lbs of sugar seems overkill. Is that supposed to read 0.5lbs?
 
With that much extract and sugar, your original gravity will be about 1.135 (very high) and ABV about 11-12%. What style do you want to brew? Don't get me wrong, I'd like to steer you in the direction that you like. But honestly, the way this looks right now, it's rocket fuel. Just likely needs some minor adjustment to hit a target.
 
Like others said, the thing that jumps out first is the 5 lbs of sugar. That's unusually high, and would likely result in a notable alcohol-burn taste. 1 lbs would closer to normal.
 
In my experience sugar additions should be maximum 10% of the fermentables. And only that high for some strong dry Belgian beers. In your recipe you're nearing 50%. I'd go with 1/2 lb. but it depends on your expectations.
 
IIRC, all-grain DIPAs tend to mash "low" and include sugar to get a highly fermentable wort.

Extract based DIPAs may need to ignore the common "maximum of 10%" suggestion to get FG in range.

(Yes, I've done this and no cider off-flavors).
 
It may not be your first batch but if it is your first batch on a new (to you) system I would suggest a SMASH recipe just to see how it works for you.
 
Wow progress thank you to everybody makes me so happy that people are so helpful 👍
I think the genuine consensus here is to drop the sugar all together. Except for bottling time. Does that sound about right to everyone? Again thanks in advance
 
PS I would like to brew something along the lines of a Pliny(Russian River brewery) type beer.
 
It depends on what you want. It's just unusual to add that much sugar.

If you are aiming for Pliny-like, here is a link to morebeer's clone recipes (download recipe sheet under Documents near the bottom):

https://www.morebeer.com/products/russian-rivers-pliny-elder-grain-beer-brewing-kit-5-gallons.html
They have 3 more lbs of base malt than you, and 1 lbs of carapils and .8 maltodextrine, but then only 1 lbs of sugar (and more hops) -Or you could substituted extra light DME for some of the sugar and extra base malt (as in their extract recipes).

If it's a new recipe, I would err in the side of keeping it simple. You can then fine tune later. But if you want higher gravity, I would suggest more base malt or DME and less straight sugar.
 
GoodTruble said:
It depends on what you want. It's just unusual to add that much sugar.

If you are aiming for Pliny-like, here is a link to morebeer's clone recipes (download recipe sheet under Documents near the bottom):

https://www.morebeer.com/products/russian-rivers-pliny-elder-grain-beer-brewing-kit-5-gallons.html
They have 3 more lbs of base malt than you, and 1 lbs of carapils and .8 maltodextrine, but then only 1 lbs of sugar (and more hops) -Or you could substituted extra light DME for some of the sugar and extra base malt (as in their extract recipes).

If it's a new recipe, I would err in the side of keeping it simple. You can then fine tune later. But if you want higher gravity, I would suggest more base malt or DME and less straight sugar.
Click to expand...
Hi Mr good. With all this great advice I am going to rewrite the recipe and post the new recipe tonight. Again thank you to all 👍
 
Good evening to all :)
As promised this is the new recipe, please add your input. the part of the hops can be changed if someone knows a better combination together we can make a great beer!!:)

9# of Pilsen extra light liquid malt extract
6# of gold malt liquid extract
all hop are pellets
2oz cascade
2oz magnum
1oz Simcoe
1oz Columbus
2oz tettnang at flame out
1oz Simcoe at flameout
2 packs of safeale English ale dry yeast

1 cup priming sugar
thank you in advance:)
 
I suggest the 2oz of magnum for 60 min (times are boil time), cascade - Simcoe - Columbus at flame out.

Forget the tettnag, it's too delicate and will get lost in the mix of hops you have there.

Then do cascade - Simcoe - Columbus as a dry hop.
 
Still have 9-10% ABV. If that's what you really want.

1 cup priming sugar will result in gushers. Go with 3/4 cup in 5 gallons.

You could cut your early hop additions in half and still end up with 100 IBUs.
 
Yes 3/4 of a cup would be great I don't like my beer too gassy.
What would be your recommendation for hops? I don't mind cutting it in half.
 
alex510 said:
please add your input
Click to expand...

Have an approach in mind for adding 15 lbs of extract without scorching it.

Estimates for FG appear to be in the 25 to 30 range. SRM estimates appear to be in the "medium amber" to "dark amber" range (it won't be "4").

It's not Pliny. Also, it's not a barley wine - as it's missing the character malts that would add the desired flavors of a barley wine. :mug:
 
BrewnWKopperKat said:
Have an approach in mind for adding 15 lbs of extract without scorching it.

Estimates for FG appear to be in the 25 to 30 range. SRM estimates appear to be in the "medium amber" to "dark amber" range (it won't be "4").

It's not Pliny. Also, it's not a barley wine - as it's missing the character malts that would add the desired flavors of a barley wine. :mug:
Click to expand...
Hi 😊,
I usually Brew between the temperatures of 180° to 200°, never really getting a full hard boil. So I never get that scorch taste or boil over.
I'm afraid I'm a little in over my head with all the technical jargon. What does FG stand for? SRM I'm assuming means how dark color the beer is? I was kind of hoping and aiming for a light color beer but Amber is great also. I don't want a carbon copy of a Pliny but something along those lines very hopped. I'm completely lost at barley wine sorry.
I guess you being so technical do you think this would be a good beer in your honest opinion? Thank you in advance. 👍
 
alex510 said:
Yes 3/4 of a cup would be great I don't like my beer too gassy.
What would be your recommendation for hops? I don't mind cutting it in half.
Click to expand...

Actually you know what will work? After I actually did the IBU math, and reserved the most aromatic hops for flameout, here's what I would recommend:

1oz Cascade (full boil)
2oz Magnum (full boil)
2oz Tettnang (full boil)
2oz Simcoe (flameout)
1oz Columbus (flameout)
1oz Cascade (flameout)
 
BrewnWKopperKat said:
Have an approach in mind for adding 15 lbs of extract without scorching it.

Estimates for FG appear to be in the 25 to 30 range. SRM estimates appear to be in the "medium amber" to "dark amber" range (it won't be "4").

It's not Pliny. Also, it's not a barley wine - as it's missing the character malts that would add the desired flavors of a barley wine. :mug:
Click to expand...

Good thoughts here. It will definitely be a deep amber / orange color, maybe even approaching red.
 
Sugar is just a tool to hit the numbers you want. Some brewers use it to get their OG higher, without having to try to pack more grains into the mash. Just depends on what you're going for. If I can hit my numbers without it I'd personally much rather use grains than sugar.

Pliny uses it but I read an interview where Vinny was talking about a clone recipe and said it was only because he needed to when he first made it and didn't bother changing the recipe over the years, not because he thought sugar was important to the recipe or anything.
 
Beer style overviews (and details on brewing them):
Terminology: How to Brew. The terminology at the web site is accurate. When brewing with extract, ignore the web site and get the 4th edition of the book.

alex510 said:
I usually Brew between the temperatures of 180° to 200°, never really getting a full hard boil
Click to expand...
This is going to have an impact on most IBU estimates. At a 'boil' temperature of 200F (roughly 'boiling' at 2000 feet), there is a noticeable reduction in hop utilization (see Ask the Experts: Brewing at High Altitude (link)). A full hard boil isn't needed; level 1 or 2 in Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link) is sufficient.

Pliny clones
Russian River Pliny the Elder Clone (AHA link) includes an extract plus steeping grains recipe. FWIW, the recipe uses 5% sugar (but see also #26). Also, the recipe uses dry malt extract (DME), not liquid malt extract (LME). Lazy Chart For Converting DME, LME, ... (link) can help with the conversion. A "back of the envelope" estimate for FG for the extract version suggests 14-ish (not 11-ish). Whether or not that matters will depend on how each of us tastes beer. For me, IPAs (and DIPAs) are better in the 10-ish range for FG.

If I were brewing this recipe, I would use 6 lb DME & 1 lb sugar (vs 6.5 lb DME an 0.5 lb sugar, assuming the original recipe is correct) - partially to lower the FG and partially to avoid open packages. Using LME, it looks like 8 lb LME is needed. Not sure what size containers you can get with LME, but there is a combination of LME containers, 1 lb DME packages, and sugar that would avoid measuring partial containers of LME.

As for style of extract, I would go with the lightest color of LME ("extra light" or "pilsen"). For best hop utilization you could do a full volume (5 gal, not 2.5 gal) boil. Half the LME at the start of the boil (and the rest towards the end of the boil) will also help with hop utilization. Recipe software will be useful when estimating IBUs.
 
Last edited:
BrewnWKopperKat said:
Beer style overviews (and details on brewing them):
Terminology: How to Brew. The terminology at the web site is accurate. When brewing with extract, ignore the web site and get the 4th edition of the book.


This is going to have an impact on most IBU estimates. At a 'boil' temperature of 200F (roughly 'boiling' at 2000 feet), there is a noticeable reduction in hop utilization (see Ask the Experts: Brewing at High Altitude (link)). A full hard boil isn't needed; level 1 or 2 in Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link) is sufficient.

Pliny clones
Russian River Pliny the Elder Clone (AHA link) includes an extract plus steeping grains recipe. FWIW, the recipe uses 5% sugar (but see also #26). Also, the recipe uses dry malt extract (DME), not liquid malt extract (LME). Lazy Chart For Converting DME, LME, ... (link) can help with the conversion. A "back of the envelope" estimate for FG for the extract version suggests 14-ish (not 11-ish). Whether or not that matters will depend on how each of us tastes beer. For me, IPAs (and DIPAs) are better in the 10-ish range for FG.

If I were brewing this recipe, I would use 6 lb DME & 1 lb sugar (vs 6.5 lb DME an 0.5 lb sugar) - partially to lower the FG and partially to avoid open packages. Using LME, it looks like 8 lb LME is needed. Not sure what size containers you can get with LME, but there is a combination of LME containers, 1 lb DME packages, and sugar that would avoid measuring partial containers of LME.

As for style of extract, I would go with the lightest color of LME ("extra light" or "pilsen"). For best hop utilization you could do a full volume (5 gal, not 2.5 gal) boil. Half the LME at the start of the boil (and the rest towards the end of the boil) will also help with hop utilization. Recipe software will be useful when estimating IBUs.
Click to expand...

hi Kat,
I have never have used dry malt extract. But I am willing to try :). So I am reposting the new recipe k.and thank you for the knowledge!
 
dmtaylor said:
Actually you know what will work? After I actually did the IBU math, and reserved the most aromatic hops for flameout, here's what I would recommend:

1oz Cascade (full boil)
2oz Magnum (full boil)
2oz Tettnang (full boil)
2oz Simcoe (flameout)
1oz Columbus (flameout)
1oz Cascade (flameout)
Click to expand...
hey DM I am going to switch to dry malt exract.I am posting the new recipe. please chime in on your thoughts .Thank you for the help
 
BrewnWKopperKat said:
Beer style overviews (and details on brewing them):
Terminology: How to Brew. The terminology at the web site is accurate. When brewing with extract, ignore the web site and get the 4th edition of the book.


This is going to have an impact on most IBU estimates. At a 'boil' temperature of 200F (roughly 'boiling' at 2000 feet), there is a noticeable reduction in hop utilization (see Ask the Experts: Brewing at High Altitude (link)). A full hard boil isn't needed; level 1 or 2 in Boiling Wort Visual Reference (link) is sufficient.

Pliny clones
Russian River Pliny the Elder Clone (AHA link) includes an extract plus steeping grains recipe. FWIW, the recipe uses 5% sugar (but see also #26). Also, the recipe uses dry malt extract (DME), not liquid malt extract (LME). Lazy Chart For Converting DME, LME, ... (link) can help with the conversion. A "back of the envelope" estimate for FG for the extract version suggests 14-ish (not 11-ish). Whether or not that matters will depend on how each of us tastes beer. For me, IPAs (and DIPAs) are better in the 10-ish range for FG.

If I were brewing this recipe, I would use 6 lb DME & 1 lb sugar (vs 6.5 lb DME an 0.5 lb sugar) - partially to lower the FG and partially to avoid open packages. Using LME, it looks like 8 lb LME is needed. Not sure what size containers you can get with LME, but there is a combination of LME containers, 1 lb DME packages, and sugar that would avoid measuring partial containers of LME.

As for style of extract, I would go with the lightest color of LME ("extra light" or "pilsen"). For best hop utilization you could do a full volume (5 gal, not 2.5 gal) boil. Half the LME at the start of the boil (and the rest towards the end of the boil) will also help with hop utilization. Recipe software will be useful when estimating IBUs.
Click to expand...
do you think I can add something else besides/instead of the 1 pound sugar? not big on sweet beer.
 
I feel like we are getting close to a very good beer :)
5# pilsner light DME
1# golden light DME
1oz cascade full boil
2oz magnum full boil
2oz tettnang full boil

2oz Simcoe flame out
1oz Columbus flame out
1oz cascade flame out
2packs of safale English ale dry yeast

I live in Vallejo ca 94590 if that makes a difference when I boil.
 
@alex510 : you can use recipe software to confirm that you are getting the desired ABV/OG/FG/IBU/SRM. Posting those values, along with the recipe, helps us help you. Thanks.

eta: with regard to sugar and sweetness, sugar is 100% fermentable.

eta: with regard to location, altitude considerations were covered in an article I referenced earlier.

:mug:
 
Last edited:
BrewnWKopperKat said:
@alex510 : you can use recipe software to confirm that you are getting the desired ABV/OG/FG/IBU/SRM. Posting those values, along with the recipe, helps us help you. Thanks.

eta: with regard to sugar and sweetness, sugar is 100% fermentable.

eta: with regard to location, altitude considerations were covered in an article I referenced earlier.

:mug:
Click to expand...
do you think I should add the one pound of sugar back on?

Should I add the 1# of sugar back on?
 
dmtaylor said:
The latest recipe looks great. One pack of yeast will be plenty, you don't need to use two packs. Elevation doesn't matter for you.
Click to expand...
Do you think I should add the 1# of sugar back on?,
 
alex510 said:
Do you think I should add the 1# of sugar back on?,
Click to expand...

Actually yes I think that would be a good idea for this recipe. For extract beers I typically recommend a pound of sugar to improve attenuation and increase ABV. And with your reduction in extract from 15 pounds to 6 pounds, why not keep the sugar in there. Five pounds would have been a very high amount. But 1 pound is very typical in extract recipes.
 
dmtaylor said:
Actually yes I think that would be a good idea for this recipe. For extract beers I typically recommend a pound of sugar to improve attenuation and increase ABV. And with your reduction in extract from 15 pounds to 6 pounds, why not keep the sugar in there. Five pounds would have been a very high amount. But 1 pound is very typical in extract recipes.
Click to expand...
I agree. It is a big beer, but a hop forward, not a malt forward beer. Therefore you use it to increase the ABV slightly without increasing the maltiness or the SRM color. Corn sugar is totally consumed by the yeast and turned into alcohol. There is no residual sweetness from corn sugar.
 
Beermeister32 said:
I agree. It is a big beer, but a hop forward, not a malt forward beer. Therefore you use it to increase the ABV slightly without increasing the maltiness or the SRM color. Corn sugar is totally consumed by the yeast and turned into alcohol. There is no residual sweetness from corn sugar.
Click to expand...
1 lb of corn sugar it is 👍😊 I will post the new recipe/finished soon today
 

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