Adding oats to this recipie. Opinions and thoughts?

[Gunshowgreg]

I'm wanting to do this recipe however I was wanting some more body to my stout than what I had in my previous stout it was a bit thin for my taste. I thought taking this recipe and getting chocolate, coffee and lactose plus adding about 1-1.5 lbs of instant oats to this would help gain a better mouth feel and thickness. Opinions? Thoughts?


I'll be using the all grain recipie provided in the picture.


Thanks
Greg

 

[Gunshowgreg]

One other thing I forgot to ask in the recipe it mentions using coffee infused dark chocolate. I've given up on that and decided to use regular dark chocolate. Is it a bad idea to use anything that has milk product in it? Such as Hershey's dark chocolate or Nestle baking dark chocholate chips?

 

[catdaddy66]

I would think one lb of oats would be fine in that recipe. Cannot help you on the chocolate addition, sorry.

 

[RM-MN]

One other thing I forgot to ask in the recipe it mentions using coffee infused dark chocolate. I've given up on that and decided to use regular dark chocolate. Is it a bad idea to use anything that has milk product in it? Such as Hershey's dark chocolate or Nestle baking dark chocholate chips?

It isn't the milk so much as the fats that are used to make the chips. Those are usually a head killer.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

It isn't the milk so much as the fats that are used to make the chips. Those are usually a head killer.

Longer boil time is what is needed? Or would cocoa powder be a better alternative?

 

[RM-MN]

Cocoa powder has no oils which is why it stays a powder. To make it stick together to make chips or bars they have to add fats/oils. I've used the unsweetened cocoa powder to add chocolate to a stout.

 

[bobeer]

I've always tried to use unsweetened baking chocolate. This substitutes better for chocolate malt better than any other chocolate IMO.

Adding lactose will for sure make the beer thicker but it will also make it a lot sweeter. If that's what you're going for then cool but if you're just going for a thicker mouthfeel I'd stick with the pound of oats or flaked barley. Maybe mash slightly higher with a thinner mash (if you're brewing AG) to get a less fermentable wort and end with a higher gravity.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

One other thing that's got my curious is that it the recipe is asking me to collect enough wort for 6 gallons. It's got a 90 minute boil time. And it says it's a 5 gallon batch. At that rate I'd be sitting at approx 3.75 gallons. I'm a bit confused. Help?

 

[Gunshowgreg]

I've always tried to use unsweetened baking chocolate. This substitutes better for chocolate malt better than any other chocolate IMO.

Adding lactose will for sure make the beer thicker but it will also make it a lot sweeter. If that's what you're going for then cool but if you're just going for a thicker mouthfeel I'd stick with the pound of oats or flaked barley. Maybe mash slightly higher with a thinner mash (if you're brewing AG) to get a less fermentable wort and end with a higher gravity.

It's a pastry beer. I think the idea is for it to be sweet and if it gives more body to the beer with the use of lactose then I may omit the use of oats and perhaps try them again later. Not sure if too much body is a bad thing

 

[Soulshine2]

1 lb of oats is a great addition for a more velvety mouthfeel in a stout. For the chocolate ,how about cocoa nibs especially sold for brewing. Never used them personally, just seen brewers use them , sure sounds tasty.

 

[JimRausch]

One other thing that's got my curious is that it the recipe is asking me to collect enough wort for 6 gallons. It's got a 90 minute boil time. And it says it's a 5 gallon batch. At that rate I'd be sitting at approx 3.75 gallons. I'm a bit confused. Help?

You boil off 2.25 gallons in an hour and 1/2? That's about 1.5 G per hour which is a lot. It depends on your system of course, but a more typical boiloff rate is about 1G per hour. OK to turn down your burner once you reach boil. You want just a slow rolling boil, not necessarily a vigorous jump-out-of-the-kettle boil. And boil for just the usual 60 minutes. Still if you want to follow the recipe and do a 90 minute boil, collect closer to 7 gallons.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

That's about what I recorded in my previous two boils. I use a big aluminum pot for crawfish boils. Maybe my readings are off. I'll try to collect closer to 7. I can always just top off as appropriately to meet my desired volume once in my fermenter correct? And my OG being accurate to the recipe. Or close to it anyway.

 

[Soulshine2]

That's about what I recorded in my previous two boils. I use a big aluminum pot for crawfish boils. Maybe my readings are off. I'll try to collect closer to 7. I can always just top off as appropriately to meet my desired volume once in my fermenter correct? And my OG being accurate to the recipe. Or close to it anyway.

lets back up a bit. This boil pot you have ,how big is it and have you made gradations on it to know where 5, 6 and 7 gallons are? If you're guessing , there will be problems in your volumes being consistent and therefore gravity adjustments and readings.
Boils dont need to be raging and violent, once its boiling ,turn down the heat so its just a gentle boil, its still going to remain 212* ,just not jumping out of the pot .
For a 5 gallon batch I aim for 6 and collect nearly 8 ....Once you take the pre-boil volume and boil it for 60 minutes , you lose volume, right? When you ferment that you lose final volume because of trub ,right? So, predict your losses during the process and add more (water, grain(fermentables) to the beginning to make up for it.
Its a bit of trial and error and learning while you do it for a while,then you'll know .It'll all be accustomed to YOUR system. so...Take good notes. If and when you make a change be it boil kettle dimensions, or heat source or whatever, make good notes of your changes .

 

[Gunshowgreg]

lets back up a bit. This boil pot you have ,how big is it and have you made gradations on it to know where 5, 6 and 7 gallons are? If you're guessing , there will be problems in your volumes being consistent and therefore gravity adjustments and readings.
Boils dont need to be raging and violent, once its boiling ,turn down the heat so its just a gentle boil, its still going to remain 212* ,just not jumping out of the pot .
For a 5 gallon batch I aim for 6 and collect nearly 8 ....Once you take the pre-boil volume and boil it for 60 minutes , you lose volume, right? When you ferment that you lose final volume because of trub ,right? So, predict your losses during the process and add more (water, grain(fermentables) to the beginning to make up for it.
Its a bit of trial and error and learning while you do it for a while,then you'll know .It'll all be accustomed to YOUR system. so...Take good notes. If and when you make a change be it boil kettle dimensions, or heat source or whatever, make good notes of your changes .

I made indications for this pot on a spoon. I added a gallon at a time to the pot and stuck my spoon in on the side and notched it at the water level. So I slowly count as I stick my spoon inside. I believe it's a 44.5 qt pot. Well I'm probably gonna just take the advice of everyone here. Turn the heat down a bit and follow the recipe. I decided to add the oats. I'll be sure to keep yall updated and let every one know how it turns out. My grains are mashing now. Time to hit the gym [emoji123]

 

[Gunshowgreg]

Well everyone after a 7.5 hr brew day. And following the recipe as close to as I can get it. (I forgot to get Willamette hops and ender up using my remaining 1/2 oz of Target hops to do the deed) my target OG was 1.066. I'm only at about 1.059 or 1.060. The sample I pulled was about 66 degrees when I took it.

I was a bit lower than 5 gallons when i transferred to my bucket and topped off with some water.

I'm noticing a thicker layer of trub at the bottom of my bucket and wondering if it's a concern. I decided not to siphon after the batch and decided to try and carefully pour from the kettle to the bucket. It worked but now in wondering if I should have just siphoned. I have another carboy I can transfer to if needed. Thoughts?

 

[Soulshine2]

1.060 is respectable. was this before or after you added water?
hydro readings should be at 60*F ,thats where its calibrated. what was your reading post temp correction and water addition?
this water you topped off with , how much and was it boiled first?
1/2 oz of hops wont do much in 5 gals.
siphon ...always siphon (racking cane)

 

[Miraculix]

Please read and digest the following:

http://scottjanish.com/case-brewing-oats/

Oats have definitely a place in brewing, however, it is usually not because of the mouth feel.

 

[Miraculix]

Well everyone after a 7.5 hr brew day. And following the recipe as close to as I can get it. (I forgot to get Willamette hops and ender up using my remaining 1/2 oz of Target hops to do the deed) my target OG was 1.066. I'm only at about 1.059 or 1.060. The sample I pulled was about 66 degrees when I took it.

I was a bit lower than 5 gallons when i transferred to my bucket and topped off with some water.

I'm noticing a thicker layer of trub at the bottom of my bucket and wondering if it's a concern. I decided not to siphon after the batch and decided to try and carefully pour from the kettle to the bucket. It worked but now in wondering if I should have just siphoned. I have another carboy I can transfer to if needed. Thoughts?

View attachment 605698View attachment 605699

You could have kept the trub inside, no problem with that. I never separate the trub, everything goes straight into the fermenter (except for the hops, which are kept in socks).

Before the yeast had been pitched, additional o2 is actually beneficial, so no need to siphon at this stage.

But again, could have left it on the trub as it would have settled down, together with the yeast, after fermentation has finished.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

1.060 is respectable. was this before or after you added water?
hydro readings should be at 60*F ,thats where its calibrated. what was your reading post temp correction and water addition?
this water you topped off with , how much and was it boiled first?
1/2 oz of hops wont do much in 5 gals.
siphon ...always siphon (racking cane)

1.060 was after I added water. Before adding a gallon of non boiled but filtered water I was at about 4 gallons and my original gravity from thatbwlquantity was about 1.070. I did not know they are calibrated to 60 degrees. Should I start putting my samplea in the fridge to get them down accordingly and then measure?

 

[Gunshowgreg]

I also hear conflicting things for top off water. Boil or not to boil?
My last couple of batches I have just poured water in and no infected beer. But maybe I'm just getting lucky.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

You could have kept the trub inside, no problem with that. I never separate the trub, everything goes straight into the fermenter (except for the hops, which are kept in socks).

Before the yeast had been pitched, additional o2 is actually beneficial, so no need to siphon at this stage.

But again, could have left it on the trub as it would have settled down, together with the yeast, after fermentation has finished.

I used the pellet hops so they broke down and that's what's in my bucket now. I havent pitched the yeast yet. My starter didnt show signs of any activity until a little close to 24 hrs of sitting and doing some shaking as I passed by it. This is my first time doing a yeast starter. I'm wondering if i should cold crash it now and pitch it either tonight or tomorrow morning after decanting. I'm gonna check out that link you sent me. Thank you for it.

 

[Soulshine2]

1.060 was after I added water. Before adding a gallon of non boiled but filtered water I was at about 4 gallons and my original gravity from thatbwlquantity was about 1.070. I did not know they are calibrated to 60 degrees. Should I start putting my samplea in the fridge to get them down accordingly and then measure?

absolutely, thats what I do too.
Your water you added post boil to top off should have been previously boiled as well...or at least heated above 170*F. You risk infection if you don't.

 

[Soulshine2]

I used the pellet hops so they broke down and that's what's in my bucket now. I havent pitched the yeast yet. My starter didnt show signs of any activity until a little close to 24 hrs of sitting and doing some shaking as I passed by it. This is my first time doing a yeast starter. I'm wondering if i should cold crash it now and pitch it either tonight or tomorrow morning after decanting. I'm gonna check out that link you sent me. Thank you for it. View attachment 605798

nope, don't cold crash, just pitch if the wort is within your yeasts working range.
BTW, what yeast are you using ? what volume of wort do you have there? looks like a 1/2 gallon. Wont need much yeast for that and the yield will be small.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

Please read and digest the following:

http://scottjanish.com/case-brewing-oats/

Oats have definitely a place in brewing, however, it is usually not because of the mouth feel.

Informative. Thank you

 

[Gunshowgreg]

absolutely, thats what I do too.
Your water you added post boil to top off should have been previously boiled as well...or at least heated above 170*F. You risk infection if you don't.

Ok I'll start adding that to my list of standard practices. Thanks.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

nope, don't cold crash, just pitch if the wort is within your yeasts working range.
BTW, what yeast are you using ? what volume of wort do you have there? looks like a 1/2 gallon. Wont need much yeast for that and the yield will be small.

I used white labs California ale yeast. The brew shop didnt have what the recipe called for and he recommended that one would be good for me. I read the instructions for the package and it said for me to do a 2 liter starter based off of my potential OG. I measured 2 cups light DME boiled with water for 15 mins. Cooled in ice batch and transferred to my 1 gallon carboy shook it really good and pitched the yeast.

You wouldn't decant it at all? That 2 liter starter isnt gonna have some off flavors from the whole thing being pitched?

 

[Gunshowgreg]

absolutely, thats what I do too.
Your water you added post boil to top off should have been previously boiled as well...or at least heated above 170*F. You risk infection if you don't.

If I read my reading at 66 degrees does that mean my readings are actually lower or higher than what is indicated?

 

[Miraculix]

If I read my reading at 66 degrees does that mean my readings are actually lower or higher than what is indicated?

The higher the temperature, the lower the reading will be. There are some good converters around, just Google hydrometer temperature brewing adjustment or something similar.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

The higher the temperature, the lower the reading will be. There are some good converters around, just Google hydrometer temperature brewing adjustment or something similar.

Wasnt off at all this time. But I'll be sure to chill my samples next time[emoji2]

 

[Miraculix]

Wasnt off at all this time. But I'll be sure to chill my samples next time[emoji2] View attachment 605803

6f difference is actually not much, the difference is rather small. I sometimes take readings at mash temperature, that can really screw things up if not being converted

 

[Soulshine2]

your hydrometer should have come with a temperature correction chart .
Make good brew day habits and stick with them ,and note them . Keep your notes in a brew day binder ...some sort of organizer. Once you get into a habit of knowing your volumes, checking temperatures and gravity readings , you'll be able to predict your outcomes. If not , you'll have a record of what you did or didnt do and figure out where a mistake was made. Record your correction notes as well.
One brew I was at the end and transferring to the fermenter . I had the valve open and walked away for no more than a minute. the hose had fallen out of the carboy and I had lost a half gallon of wort in that time. My note to self was -NEVER EVER walk away from an open valve while brewing.

 

[Soulshine2]

I used white labs California ale yeast. The brew shop didnt have what the recipe called for and he recommended that one would be good for me. I read the instructions for the package and it said for me to do a 2 liter starter based off of my potential OG. I measured 2 cups light DME boiled with water for 15 mins. Cooled in ice batch and transferred to my 1 gallon carboy shook it really good and pitched the yeast.

You wouldn't decant it at all? That 2 liter starter isnt gonna have some off flavors from the whole thing being pitched?

Decant what? I'm confused now. Your fermenter looks like its a half full 1 gallon jug. Your starter is 2 liters? thats like the same amount . 2 cups is 16 oz , not far from a liter (1.18 qts actually).
I use dry yeast,usually Safale US-05. Its a good general purpose ale yeast and is very hardy with a decent wide temperature working range.
the ONLY time I used a starter was when my yeast was questionable given its age.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

Well after cold crashing. I was told to decant the nasty starter wort and leave about an inch of it left on top of the settled yeast at the bottom. Give it a swirl after going to room temp and pitch the slurry.

Yeah I been keeping notes. I print out the recipe with everything on it and I hand write my notes next to everything. Kinda like a work sheet so I can remember what I did especially if I liked it or If I had to substitute things.

 

[Soulshine2]

ok, now I follow what you're saying. Yes, that should work . However , to save yourself time and process (next time), with that small of a batch you could just pitch a portion (1/3) of a 11g dry yeast packet and it will be fine.