48 hour Ale primary fermentation?

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Picbuddy

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Hope this is the right spot for this question. Have brewed 15 gallons of beer so far, two (5) gallon batches of wheat, one a Paulaner clone, 2nd another Paulaner clone with lemongrass and now a 5 gallon batch of red ale with home grown serrano peppers in the last 15 minutes of boil. Both wheat beers came out just lovely and my airlock was bubbling along happy for about a week each.

The red ale is no longer bubbling. It started at 4 hours after being placed in the primary (7.9 gallon bucket) and ran hard and strong for 48 hours. I used Nottingham and Marlbrew yeasts as a double pitch with 6 pounds of malt extract and an extra pound of corn sugar for a 1% alcohol boost. Also added three capsules of Austin Home Brew Vint Fuel for yeast. Hydrometer showed the potential for 8.5% alcohol.

Now, my guess is that the Marlbrew yeast reacted like "a monster" as it's been described on comments of the AHB forums as many have noted that it works hard for 2-3 days. Yet the fermentation slowing so fast just makes me wonder if an ale can go that fast.

The bucket is a constant 69F. I "disturb it" by twisting once or twice a day (it was born 1/4/14) but no bubbles from the airlock. I am thinking of just leaving it alone for another week before transferring into 25 750ml Belgian amber flip tops with cane sugar for bottle finishing. Or I do have a packet of California Ale Yeast which is a robust hybrid from what I have heard.

What would ya'll do? Ignore the inactive airlock and just have faith? (Have heard buckets leak thus negating the airlock activity) Or give it a third pitch of a 3rd type of yeast?

Thanks,

Greg
College Station, Texas
Home of Texas A&M University
 
Let it sit for a week then start taking hydrometer readings. If your hydrometer readings over a period of three to four days are the same, and SG is in the predicted range, fermentation is complete.
An extra week on the yeast cake after FG is reached will give the yeast time to clean up the off flavors of fermentation.
 
Congrats on your 1,111th post and thanks for the help.


Let it sit for a week then start taking hydrometer readings. If your hydrometer readings over a period of three to four days are the same, and SG is in the predicted range, fermentation is complete.
An extra week on the yeast cake after FG is reached will give the yeast time to clean up the off flavors of fermentation.
 
The only way to check whether the sugars are fermented out is to use a hydrometer as flars suggested.

I leave my ales in the primary for four weeks to allow the yeast to clean up the beer after the sugars have fermented out. If you have the time and space, I'd suggest leaving it in primary for at least a total of two weeks.
 
Uziyahu - Thank you also. Yep, have the time and space no problem, it's gonna be in the primary for no less than 3-4 more weeks now, perhaps even longer as I am learning by reading more on ales. Will most certainly use the hydrometer to see when my millions of helpers are done eating and give ample time for clean up. As Flars and you have both now pointed out.

The first taste (yes I drank the hydrometer sample tube) shows real promise with a pepper burn at the back of the tongue that may make this one a "pay to enjoy". Will be interesting to see how much of the pepper heat still exists in a few months as the bottles will be racked another month min. before chilling and drinking.

I'm glad ya'll have not suggested pitching the 3rd toss of yeast as a third type as I don't want it to be that uhm... Unique. Yet easily replicated. I think in this case with the 3 capsules of yeast fuel and double pitch it got down and busy and done super fast. Hydrometer will tell.

Thank you.



The only way to check whether the sugars are fermented out is to use a hydrometer as flars suggested.

I leave my ales in the primary for four weeks to allow the yeast to clean up the beer after the sugars have fermented out. If you have the time and space, I'd suggest leaving it in primary for at least a total of two weeks.
 
It's sometimes hard to do, but the best thing is to simply leave it alone, control the ferment temps and wait.

FYI- next time you use Nottingham, try to keep the beer temp down in the low 60's. When that strain gets to 68*F or higher, it starts to produce some unwanted flavors.
 
Okay I do have some closure to this story. It seems all too often you read about a great beer in the making and then no end of the story.

Got one here! I lost about 33% or more of the batch when my wife hit the spigot with a vacuum cleaner. She said after cleaning she kept hearing a "ca-junk" sound. That was my beer leaking into the carpet.

After replacement of the carpet and padding, the final Pepper Ale came out extremely bad ass. Full flavor red ale with serrano on the nose and back of the tongue with a burn you had to pay when swallowing it's 7.6% alcohol.

Using fresh chile peppers (pressure cooked at 160F+) made me wonder why more brewers don't use them. In fact the Smoked Porter in my tank now had 10 serranos added as a dip for the last 15 minutes last night. Oh they come through no problem.

For a really special brew, make it hurt a little to drink. I'm considering a new Pale Ale with up to 50 Serrano peppers. They work well.

Don't be scared. Just do it.
 
Instead of 50 Serrano peppers,maybe just use a couple scorpion peppers instead? Anyway,I wait till my beer gets down to a stable FG within range of the recipe. Then give it 3-7 more days to clean up by-products of fermentation & settle out clear or slightly misty before bottling.
 

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