30gal Insulated Conical Mashtun

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StMarcos

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Just about done with this. I've been using a 120qt cooler with a braid, which in general worked fine, but I became frustrated with the long-narrow geometry. I batch sparge and aim for equal runnings of a little more than 10gal. Boiloff 3gal, thermal contraction about a gal, leaving 16.5 in the fermenter, easily giving me 15.5gal to fill a sanke. The cooler just took too long to get the last couple of gallons out. Hopefully this system will work - might be testing on Thursday!

The heart is a Ronco 30gal cone-bottom tank with about a 20degree bottom slope and a 5'' flat area. I ordered a lid with it. I installed a 1/2'' pp bulkhead. The tank has graduations. Pic makes it look taller and narrower than it really is.

The stand is 2x3 fir and 3/4plywood. All joints were screwed and glued with polyurethane glue. There are eight oak triangles that will support the tank. The flat part of the bottom will be floating by about 1/4''. I thought that it would be too tricky to make it rest on both, so opted for the triangles. I left the glue fillets on them for extra strength. These too are glued and screwed from underneath. The stand received 4 coats of outdoor polyurethane.

The insulation is 2'' polycyanurate foam board. Was hoping to use the armaflex stuff, but ran out of funds for the project, and already had the board. I made razor slits 90% of the way through from the outside, and snapped the rest. Wrapped around the tank and filled the gaps with insulating foam. Trimmed these with a razor and then a rasp. The top has a circle of foam board as well. I wrapped the whole thing in foil tape. Not terribly happy with this finish but there you go. Maybe upgrade later to some of that truck-bed liner that some people have been using. Pulling it firmly, the insulation shell leaves about a 1/2'' gap. I think I'll hold it with velcro. Not sure if I'll put some weatherstripping in there or leave it open to see the graduations. I usually just stir well and check with a thermapen, but would consider installing a thermometer. I usually hit target temps pretty well, and I think this thing is going to hold the temp pretty well. :)

False bottom is 16gauge stainless, with the standard 3/32 - 5/32. It's only 12''... to make it the full 18'' would have been too much $$ for the time being. I cut it with a dremel tool. We'll see how it works. Remember I batch sparge. It sits about 1 & 3/8'' from the flat part of the bottom. There are 2-56 size machine screws to support it. I should probably upgrade to larger standoffs, although the 16gauge perf. sheet seems pretty rigid. I ordered some silicone edge gasket to fit around the FB, which is totally flat, but the bottom of the tank waves a bit, leaving a gap certainly larger than 3/32'', maybe 3/16'' Hopefully the weight of the grain will help seal it up.

I drain the MT into 6-7gal buckets and then dump these into the BK. Pretty rustic technique but it works well for me. I scoop the spent grain into buckets with a 1gal pitcher and compost it with rice straw.

Hope it works!

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Installed seven 1/4-28 bolts. Six are for supports, the seventh is to grap on to when placing/removing the FB. If it's too inconvenient I'll make something better for a handle. They float ~1/8'' above the flat part of the bottom without pressure on the FB. I think this will work well. The gasket fits nicely. I might thread the two ends with some fine ss wire to hold them together a bit better... unless someone suggests a better idea. Put some velcro on to hold the shell together. It's not really needed honestly. The pipe tape is only there to cover up the sticky side of the outer velcro pieces.

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35.5lbs grain, 13gal water in there now. 10min into the mash, I measured 155degF with da thermapen after a stir. Same reading at 50min in after another stir. Don't have the t-pen set to 0.1degF resolution, but it seems like it didn't drop more than a degF. Good news, but pretty much what I expected. We'll see how the lauter goes.

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Wow. Just finished the sparge. Had the valve open fully the whole time. Not a hiccup. Got an extra gallon and a half in the boiler. Took about 30min to do both vorlaufs and both runnings. I stopped collecting once the deadspace ran dry. Put a gallon pitcher under the valve to see how much keeps draining out over the next few hours.
 
Pic of boil just starting with some fwh American Tett. 22 'fluid' gallons in there. Going to have to boil off more than expected. Really wish I had n.g. running to the burner. Propane always slows WAY down once the tank begins icing up. Last time I put the tank in an 8gal megapot with hot water, and that helped a lot, so I'm going to do that again.

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Awesome, I love my bottom draining MLT. How much did you get out of the grain while letting it sit for a while?

-G
 
Probably a half gallon in about 20min which I added to the boil, and another half gallon over the next few hours. Driest spent grain I've ever scooped. I'll definitely be altering my numbers next time. Ended up boiling for close to 2.5hrs! After all that, forgot the whirlfloc.... :(
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread.

May I, please, ask people's opinions on how you might do this with a Stainless Steel vessel?

Would the same filter be adequate, do you think?

I like the concept of SS, due to the ease of cleaning and longevity.

Any other "issues", I'm missing? (I know I haven't said much itfp.)
 
I don't see any reason why you couldn't replicate exactly what I did with a hopper from Toledo Metal Spinning. BTW, the tun is still working very well, and there is no sign of anything wearing or other longevity issues. I never did find a good way to hold the edge gasket around the rim of the false floor. I'm sure I could 'staple' it with a bit of stainless wire, but I'd worry if that would tear out the silicone after several uses. In any case, it works as is, but I have to stretch the gasket a bit after I've dropped the fb into place. No big deal but not ideal either.

As an aside, I almost never remove the insulation, and just cip (with a hose and a sponge).
 
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