1st BIAB, getting too anxious??

[Sbe2]

So, my brew day didn't start where I wanted. I was aiming to mash in at 152, my strike water was 161 and it was 35 in my garage, I thought I would be ok. Grain temp was 70, dumped grains in on my full volume of water. Wound up mashing at 157. I was ok with that, time constraints meant I couldn't wait so I proceeded. After fermentation slowed to a snail's pace, added my dry hoops to the primary. Now, I am currently cold crashing before bottling.

My problem is this: The samples I pulled for FG readings had that dreaded rubbery/band aid taste. This brew I took water from the hot water side of my sink, due to time, where as I usually get water from my outside tap. I chlorinate my water, didn't use a Camden tablet, so I am worried that is what it is. But, maybe it is still yeast in suspension???

I think I am being one of those noobs using a new technique I am unfamiliar with, and just fretting for no reason.

 

[NothingRhymesWithCurtiss]

A quick run down of your recipe, the yeast you used, and the temp you fermented at could help us try to diagnose what's going on.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Too anxious imo. Taste testing a FG sample will be different than the conditioned beer ime.

 

[Sbe2]

5.5 gallon

8 lb 9.1 ozMattie Otter
3 lb 5.9 oz 2-row
* Wanted all MO, but ran out at LHBS
65% efficiency

1.051 SG

All mosaic hops

60 min - .5 oz
5 min - .5 oz
Hopstand @ 160 - 1 oz
Dry hop(Towards the end of ferm) - 6 oz

2nd generation TYB Vermont Ale pitched at 64f kept for three days. Raised to 68 for two, raised to 70 for two, currently cold crashing...

 

[ch19]

For a first attempt, that's a great recipe! In my experience, brews tend to start showing their true colours from 3 weeks onwards. If you're only a week in, you've got a way to go. Also, I'd recommend allowing two full weeks before cold crashing - give the yeast time to clean up before dropping it out.

 

[RM-MN]

So, my brew day didn't start where I wanted. I was aiming to mash in at 152, my strike water was 161 and it was 35 in my garage, I thought I would be ok. Grain temp was 70, dumped grains in on my full volume of water. Wound up mashing at 157. I was ok with that, time constraints meant I couldn't wait so I proceeded. After fermentation slowed to a snail's pace, added my dry hoops to the primary. Now, I am currently cold crashing before bottling.

My problem is this: The samples I pulled for FG readings had that dreaded rubbery/band aid taste. This brew I took water from the hot water side of my sink, due to time, where as I usually get water from my outside tap. I chlorinate my water, didn't use a Camden tablet, so I am worried that is what it is. But, maybe it is still yeast in suspension???

I think I am being one of those noobs using a new technique I am unfamiliar with, and just fretting for no reason.

I'm afraid you are right. Have you heard the saying, "Haste makes waste"? Campden tablets are cheap and work nearly instantaneously. They won't hurt anything if you add them to water that doesn't have chlorine either so if in doubt, use them. 1/4 tablet crushed well for 5 gallons.

 

[Sbe2]

Too anxious imo. Taste testing a FG sample will be different than the conditioned beer ime.

I was too anxious being a noob at AG, and should have just relaxed and reflected on previous extract brews.

Bottled last night, finished at 1.018, good mosaic flavor and aroma, tasted biscuits from the MO, and I could not pick up any of that off flavor previously mentioned. Hopefully I dodged one and can't wait to crack one open.

I bought 100 Campden tabs which should last me a lifetime.

Thanks for the advice

 

[jjw5015]

I never get great taste from my hydrometer samples, especially before dry hops, and within a few days after they are kegged, they taste completely different.

 

[kh54s10]

Well you mashed pretty high and cold crashed kind of early. Are you sure you were at final gravity? I wouldn't have even added the dry hops until you say you were cold crashing then it would be 5 days or so after that...

As others have said, the taste before carbonation and conditioning can sometimes be a lot different. I have had a couple where I hit all my numbers, tasted the beer at bottling or kegging and said "Uh-oh! But when they were really ready they ere quite good.

And the Campden tablets.

 

[pshankstar]

I was too anxious being a noob at AG, and should have just relaxed and reflected on previous extract brews.

Bottled last night, finished at 1.018, good mosaic flavor and aroma, tasted biscuits from the MO, and I could not pick up any of that off flavor previously mentioned. Hopefully I dodged one and can't wait to crack one open.

I bought 100 Campden tabs which should last me a lifetime.

Thanks for the advice

Congrats on your brew day, even though it may have stressed you out some with worry.

Look into buying RO water from the local grocery store or Walmart (about 35 cents a gallon). Then you may need to look into the mineral additions to balance out the PH. The campden tablets are a great start for your next brew for sure.

Where about in NY are you located? Look into joining a local brew club and bring some brews to get some feedback. This has been invaluable for me since I joined one a year ago!

Also, as others have said the hydrometer samples can be misleading. I've had some samples of mine that I feel are horrible but the finished product turns out really well. Then I have the opposite too. Anyways, congrats again and brew on!

 

[Sbe2]

Doing some research after post mash, a lot of information theorizes (it is probably true) that the higher the mash temp, the higher the FG and sweeter the beer,???

I think that tasting the hydrometer samples is my issue here, just chomping at the bit.

Just going to have to do another brew and get my efficiency dialed in



» I'm around Batavia

 

[jjw5015]

Doing some research after post mash, a lot of information theorizes (it is probably true) that the higher the mash temp, the higher the FG and sweeter the beer,???

I think that tasting the hydrometer samples is my issue here, just chomping at the bit.

Just going to have to do another brew and get my efficiency dialed in



» I'm around Batavia

It's not theory, it's truth.

 

[Sbe2]

It's not theory, it's truth.

Didn't want to state that it was truth without knowing.

I know how brutal some ppl are on here when posters think some things are true when they are maybe only part way.

 

[Owly055]

I'm confused here....... WHY CAMBDEN TABLETS?............ That makes no sense in beer. Cambden tablets are used in wine making to kill undesirable microbes and wild yeasts. Cambden has absolutely no place in beer brewing unless you are doing a sour mash and want to pitch a specific bacteria and kill all others. Otherwise all microbes are killed in the boil......otherwise it's a waste of money and utterly useless.

Why are folks advocating RO water?? The statement " I chlorinate my water" does not imply a bad mineral composition, it implies a concern about microbes, usually coliform bacteria. Chlorine can easily be boiled out...... very quickly. The OP's comments suggest that his outside faucet is NOT chlorinated..... which obviously is the one to use.

"REAL WATER" is usually superior to RO water, as it has naturally occurring minerals in it. RO water must have a minerals package added. Don't recommend RO water unless the OP has issues with mineral content. Recommend testing. There is a LOT of good well water in the US, and no "good" RO water.

Patience is the right council here.............. Ignore all this other nonsense!! If you suspect you have a water problem after brewing a few batches, have it tested, and then decide what to do.

Disclaimer: I have superb well water that spends very little time in the ground between here and the mountains, so I have a prejudice in that direction. I understand that there is water out there that is unfit to drink or brew with, but I would NOT condemn well or spring water without cause.

H.W.

 

[jjw5015]

This should be good...

View attachment 1487300430873.jpg

 

[RM-MN]

I'm confused here....... WHY CAMBDEN TABLETS?............ That makes no sense in beer. Cambden tablets are used in wine making to kill undesirable microbes and wild yeasts. Cambden has absolutely no place in beer brewing unless you are doing a sour mash and want to pitch a specific bacteria and kill all others. Otherwise all microbes are killed in the boil......otherwise it's a waste of money and utterly useless.

Why are folks advocating RO water?? The statement " I chlorinate my water" does not imply a bad mineral composition, it implies a concern about microbes, usually coliform bacteria. Chlorine can easily be boiled out...... very quickly. The OP's comments suggest that his outside faucet is NOT chlorinated..... which obviously is the one to use.

"REAL WATER" is usually superior to RO water, as it has naturally occurring minerals in it. RO water must have a minerals package added. Don't recommend RO water unless the OP has issues with mineral content. Recommend testing. There is a LOT of good well water in the US, and no "good" RO water.

Patience is the right council here.............. Ignore all this other nonsense!! If you suspect you have a water problem after brewing a few batches, have it tested, and then decide what to do.

Disclaimer: I have superb well water that spends very little time in the ground between here and the mountains, so I have a prejudice in that direction. I understand that there is water out there that is unfit to drink or brew with, but I would NOT condemn well or spring water without cause.

H.W.

Campden tablets (crushed) will remove chlorine and chloramine nearly instantly if added to the water before brewing. Since the OP said he chlorinated his water, that was my first response. Now the question is whether his entire water supply is chlorinated or maybe the outside faucet does not have chlorine. If the water does not have chlorine, the Campden tablet does nothing to hurt the water for brewing. If in fact all faucets are chlorinated the Campden tablet will be appropriate for every brewing session unless he/she buys water from another source.

RO water is essentially without minerals. It can work great for extract batches as is but for all grain you would need to add minerals.

 

[soccerdad]

My household water is fine for brewing darker beers and I need only small salt additions for lighter beers ... BUT ... it is chlorinated. So I add a half campden tablet. This is faster and easier than boiling the chlorine away and waiting for the water to cool to mash temp.

 

[Owly055]

Campden tablets (crushed) will remove chlorine and chloramine nearly instantly if added to the water before brewing. Since the OP said he chlorinated his water, that was my first response. Now the question is whether his entire water supply is chlorinated or maybe the outside faucet does not have chlorine. If the water does not have chlorine, the Campden tablet does nothing to hurt the water for brewing. If in fact all faucets are chlorinated the Campden tablet will be appropriate for every brewing session unless he/she buys water from another source.

RO water is essentially without minerals. It can work great for extract batches as is but for all grain you would need to add minerals.

Thanks.......... I was unaware of that use for campden tablets.....

H.W.

 

[Sbe2]

Yeah I would prefer to use my outside source for water. For this brew I had to use my inside hot water due to time, and it was 10 degrees outside.

When using my hot water, I will use Campden tabs as another precaution.

I have not done a complete water test on my well (for mineral content), but it is on the list.

» Side note.
I chlorinate because I am in farm country and have hundred acre fields around my property that get their fair dose of manure throughout the year. Whether or not that contributes to bacteria I don't know or care.


PATIENCE is all I needed.