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Sale is in process

Home brewing gear at yard sale April 23, first come first served, starts at 7AM, 3234 W Sunnyside Ave 2 - Better Bottle 6 gallon carboys with SimpleFlo racking adapter, used - $25 each 12 - ball lock cornelius 5 gallon soda kegs, used - $40 each The seals in the kegs were replaced when I...

Four Perlick 525SS faucets with 6" SS shanks and 5/16 OD SS tail pieces. Used but cleaned. $165 shipped priority mail anywhere in lower 48. Pay via paypal. All or none.

I agree with ArcLight, I had a double pulley system but added a winch for the 10 gal batches after the first run. It is a bit heavy but more importantly you need time to hang for sparge and drain.

I recent moved from 5 to 10 gallon batches with my electric inverted keg system with recirculation. I went from full volume mash to partial volume mash with cold sparge. I maintained the same efficiency as with the 5 gal batches. It does feel much more rewarding to have 10 gal of wort at the end...

The whole rig is on a rolling cart. The hoist comes off to roll through doorways. It was built from chain link fence parts. I rollout the rig and can be setup in few minutes.

Keep in mind the additional length the elbow adds to the element relative to the diameter of the kettle.

I second the heat issue, I run a 4500W element on a 50 amp SSR with external mount heat-sink. It is almost too hot to touch during the boil. Sealed in a cooler it is likely to have a catastrophic failure.

Thanks for the input, but I am not trying to change my current setup other then to see if there is a heating element I can mount from the bottom that would allow me to lower my false bottom. After additional research it appears my options are limited. There are flexible tubular heat...

Inverted keg, water heater element, false bottom above water heater element. I don't loose the 4 gallons, from a draining standpoint I loose nothing due to the center bottom outlet. Since my system is BIAB I use the total expected water volume during the mash which includes compensation for...

I cut the bottom off of the keg at the collar weld line and use it inverted. The element back flange is about 1/2" above the weld line so I could have drilled it a little lower. The false bottom is above the element to help form a uniform grain bed since I recirculate. I don't think there is...

My current e-BIAB setup uses a water heater element and weldless setup like many others on the forum. However, one of the greatest compromises of my system is the large dead space below the false bottom due to the heat element. I probably could have drilled the hole a quarter inch lower but I...

My current e-BIAB system (recalculating) has significant dead space, a little over 4 gallons. I suppose in most systems the dead space is minimal and generally does not impact the mash, but in systems with significant dead space should I include the volume of the dead space in the grain to water...

R

The 220/240 elements tend to be longer (lower watt density) than the 120 elements at the same wattage at 120v

Are those parts PVC? PVC becomes soft at mash temp.

I tried a search within HomeBrew Talk and Google, but I could not find a good guide on how to select a RIMS Tube heating element. Let me know if you have a good link. Otherwise, my two major concerns are scorching or other flavor impacting issues, and the element touching the side of the RIMS...